I cut a 1/2" hot line that was suspected of leaking in the footing and/or under the slab. The purpose was to confirm which of three hot lines is leaking and cut water to that line until the plumbers can do there thing. When the plumbers reroute all hot copper lines so they don't pass under or into the slab the sharkbite will be removed and replaced with sweated caps. It basically worked well, but this morning, with the hot water shutoff after being on for an hour, the sharbite had a slow drip. I didn't turn the hot back on, but wonder how fast that leak would be under pressure. I decided to remove it, see if the pipe is cut square and deburred. (This was done during the night in a confined space and not enough rook to cut with a pipe cutter.) I can't get the sharbite off and I have the orange plastic removal tool. I wonder if it is because I pushed the sharkbite on too far. (more than an inch?) No, I didn't place a 1" mark up the pipe so that I didn't go too far. Anyway, the sound of running water, which had been getting louder over the weekend, was substantially diminished. I think that indicates that the isolated line was leaking. However, does the fact that the sound is still there indicate that one or both of the other two pipes is also leaking under the slab? Meanwhile, I have the second pipe cut and am ready to slip on a sharkbite end stop, and this time I will measure and mark the 1" point, but will put all on hold until I here from someone. As for pipe 1, any suggestions as to how to remove the sharbite. I am being very careful not to put pressure on the sweat fitting locate about a foot away. It may be that I am simply need to use some force. Per a youtube video playing in the backgound, it takes a lot of force to remove one with the little orange tool. Thanks.

The hosebibs serving my washing machine are leaking around the stems. I have managed to stop the leaks by turning the knobs ultra-tight. A series of sliding-door compartments, one of which encloses the washer hosebibs, has been built against the wall. I would have to remove the compartments to get access to replace the hosebibs, but I would rather not. How big a job is it to repack the valve stems? I think I could do this if all I have to do is loosen & remove the top faucet caps around the stems. Please advise. Thank you.