First 'real' plumbing attempt-- wish me luck :)
#1
04-21-17, 11:59 AM
First 'real' plumbing attempt-- wish me luck :)
So, I was just informed the 'whole house' pipe coverage I pay for with the water company doesnt cover leaking hose bibs. I definitely want to replace the whole thing vs try to fix the o rings
Previously, I had a plumber isolate the supplies for the two hose bibs with a shutoff valve and a drain.
I am thinking this is as good a time as any for me to try my hand at piping something.
I was originally thinking I would cut the pipe near the shutoff (where the hand points to a coupling) and attach a shark-bite fitting to the copper and clamp the Pex pipe there and run it all the way to the new hose bib pipe, where it comes through the wall.
Now that I am typing this, I am thinking "why replace that whole copper pipe? Why not just cut the pipe near the bib and run pex for 1-3 feet instead of the 20 feet from the valve?"
Any reason why reusing the old pipe is a bad idea?
Previously, I had a plumber isolate the supplies for the two hose bibs with a shutoff valve and a drain.
I am thinking this is as good a time as any for me to try my hand at piping something.
I was originally thinking I would cut the pipe near the shutoff (where the hand points to a coupling) and attach a shark-bite fitting to the copper and clamp the Pex pipe there and run it all the way to the new hose bib pipe, where it comes through the wall.
Now that I am typing this, I am thinking "why replace that whole copper pipe? Why not just cut the pipe near the bib and run pex for 1-3 feet instead of the 20 feet from the valve?"
Any reason why reusing the old pipe is a bad idea?
#3
04-21-17, 12:09 PM
Super Moderator
Why use pex though? Use copper... IMO
As a plumber I would solder it, but I know all are not well versed in soldering..
SharkBite 1/2 in. Brass Push-to-Connect Ball Valve-22222-0000LF - The Home Depot
Homewerks Worldwide 1/2 in. x 12 in. Brass Anti-Siphon Frost Free Sillcock Valve with Push-Fit Connections-P140-8-12x12 - The Home Depot
As a plumber I would solder it, but I know all are not well versed in soldering..
SharkBite 1/2 in. Brass Push-to-Connect Ball Valve-22222-0000LF - The Home Depot
Homewerks Worldwide 1/2 in. x 12 in. Brass Anti-Siphon Frost Free Sillcock Valve with Push-Fit Connections-P140-8-12x12 - The Home Depot
#4
04-21-17, 12:25 PM
thanks for the reply!
Basically, I've never soldered pipe before. I figured I'd try pex this go round.
One thing I did learn from watching the shark bite video is that I need a shark bite deburring tool
I bought 20' of pex. May want to return that. Or does it store well in an attic? I dont mind keeping pex around, but thats the only space I have for it.
To be clear: you recommend cutting the pipe BETWEEN the two couplings or taking them out completely?
Thanks again!
Basically, I've never soldered pipe before. I figured I'd try pex this go round.
One thing I did learn from watching the shark bite video is that I need a shark bite deburring tool
I bought 20' of pex. May want to return that. Or does it store well in an attic? I dont mind keeping pex around, but thats the only space I have for it.
To be clear: you recommend cutting the pipe BETWEEN the two couplings or taking them out completely?
Thanks again!
#5
04-21-17, 12:49 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
I would guess you are going to use a frost proof sillcock. I would just cut it back to where the sillcock fits. May not even need pex
#6
04-21-17, 01:06 PM
Super Moderator
Cut both couplings out..
And what type of hose bib do you have?
You may need to drill a bigger hole for the push type..
Umm not being able to solder opens up a can of worms..
I usually solder a piece of copper onto the new hose bib long enough to reach where I cut the copper. Then solder a new coupling to connect the two..
And what type of hose bib do you have?
You may need to drill a bigger hole for the push type..
Umm not being able to solder opens up a can of worms..
I usually solder a piece of copper onto the new hose bib long enough to reach where I cut the copper. Then solder a new coupling to connect the two..
#7
04-21-17, 01:09 PM
previous plumber I used convinced me they are not worth the headache.
For a female sillcock, 12" iron pipe and a FIP to Pex fitting. I have a drain back near the shutoff
For a female sillcock, 12" iron pipe and a FIP to Pex fitting. I have a drain back near the shutoff
#8
04-21-17, 02:38 PM
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Follow Lawrosa's advice first. But if you don't want to solder, sharkbite makes a Slip Repair Coupling that can fix a gap up to 2".
The slip coupling has one end that inserts normally, about 7/8", the other end will slide by using a release tool.
The slip coupling has one end that inserts normally, about 7/8", the other end will slide by using a release tool.
#9
04-23-17, 06:13 PM
How'd I do?
I used shark bite connector with female threads to attach to copper
I then threaded a male fitting to pex nipple to that shark bite fitting
I used a black iron pipe through the wall with a threaded fitting (to pex nipple) on the other side and clamped 1/2" pex to connect it
The only issue I have to revisit is the spigot itself uses two screws to hold it in place. I had a tough time getting screws to sink. It's "ok, for now", but I am thinking about making a plate out of PT plywood and screwing that into the house and then screwing spigot support screws into that
I used shark bite connector with female threads to attach to copper
I then threaded a male fitting to pex nipple to that shark bite fitting
I used a black iron pipe through the wall with a threaded fitting (to pex nipple) on the other side and clamped 1/2" pex to connect it
The only issue I have to revisit is the spigot itself uses two screws to hold it in place. I had a tough time getting screws to sink. It's "ok, for now", but I am thinking about making a plate out of PT plywood and screwing that into the house and then screwing spigot support screws into that
