2" sewer pipe into main?


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Old 05-15-17, 02:57 PM
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Question 2" sewer pipe into main?

Just want to make sure I got this right. If I connect a 2" PVC 45 Elbow to the 2" sewer pipe (pipe in the back with the 90 elbow) and connect a 2" PVC pipe from that to the Main T that I'm holding will this meet code??
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Old 05-15-17, 03:36 PM
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Yes for what we see?

But what is that line for? How is it vented above?
 
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Old 05-15-17, 03:48 PM
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The sewer line comes from the sewage ejector pit. The sewer ejector pit has a vent line that comes off it over to the main that you see in the original picture. It is the straight pipe behind the 2"sewer pipe.

I plan on tying that into the vent stack right beside it. Right now that vent goes to a washer which I will be moving.

Here is the vent coming off the sewage ejector pit.
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Old 05-17-17, 05:59 PM
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So, looks good or do I need to change anything?
 
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Old 05-17-17, 10:37 PM
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sorry I am not clear and what your teeing into or what this tie in is for...
 
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Old 05-18-17, 05:00 PM
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I'm trying to tie in the sewage ejector pump. The plumber ran the pipes over to the main and its been almost a year and he keeps putting me off to tie it in even though he said it's easy and it will wont take long. So If it's easy I assume get it done and do it myself.
 
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Old 05-18-17, 05:50 PM
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OK so the vent is tied in already in this pic?

Does anything flow in that vent from above?

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Old 05-18-17, 06:06 PM
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Yes, the vent is tied into everything that needs to be vented downstairs and run to the main sewage pipe and vent pipe that leads outside. Shower, bathroom sink, kitchen sink and ejector. I'll have to vent the washer when i move it but I will save that for another thread.

Nope nothing drains into that pipe at all, it goes through the upstairs bathroom wall as a vent for the tub I assume?
 
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Old 05-18-17, 09:46 PM
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So the discharge pipe coming out of the ejector runs up and comes out here in this pic? And you want to tie it to that 3" main?

Just a note: Why are there two pipes up there?

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Old 05-18-17, 10:43 PM
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Yes,the discharge pipe comes out of the ejector, runs between the the floor joist and along the wall to the area in that picture and i want to tie into the main. Those 2 old dirty pipes are the two pipes that come out the back side of my roof. 3" and 2". The other two new white pipes are the sewage and the vent for all the down stairs utilities.
 
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Old 05-19-17, 10:27 AM
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Maybe these pictures will help you see what is going on better.

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Old 05-19-17, 11:29 AM
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OK the red pipe from the injector is fine.. Tie in as you stated..

The yellow I dont get.

The ejector has the vent tied in already.



Are you saying the yellow is the vent in this pic?



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Old 05-19-17, 12:10 PM
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Yes, the yellow is the vent in that picture and is tied into the downstairs utilities ( kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower, toilet and carried over to the main sewer area where there is a vent that leads outside through the roof. But it is not tied into this vent yet as you could see from the picture.
 
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Old 05-20-17, 08:21 AM
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I wanted to get this all tied in this weekend. I'm sorry if I am not explaining it very well. If you need more pictures from dif angles I can dig some up as most of the place is covered in drywall now but I took tons of pictures through out the process.
 
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Old 05-20-17, 09:25 AM
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It the the vent with the cap on the tee?

Your plan look good but the pipe coming from the vent has to be lower then that vent tee tie in.

Like waste pipe you need pitch from ejector to vent tie in.






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Old 05-20-17, 09:40 AM
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Yes, the vent is the pipe with the cap on the bottom. I can tie the ejector vent in to the pipe coming off that tee as I would be removing that anyway because it's used for the washer vent and I am moving the washer closer to the ejector.
 
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Old 05-20-17, 09:52 AM
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Or cut the tee out and hook up directly with two ells.

tie the washer in elswhere..
 
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Old 05-20-17, 10:07 AM
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I'll look to see if I have enough room to cut out the T. That would make more sense to do it that way.

Also, do you have to use a separate primer and glue when connecting the pipes or just glue (I think the stuff I have is purple)? And how long do I have to wait for it to cure so I can use the plumbing again?
 
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Old 05-20-17, 11:10 AM
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Yes glue and primer... Primer is purple. But get the heavy bond glue. Commonly sold is the medium bond stuff.. But no biggie..

You can use pretty quickly. But I would wait to what the can says on the glue..
 
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Old 05-20-17, 11:54 AM
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Thanks so much for your help and your patients! I'll be sure to post pics when I am done. Next project is relocating the washer and tying in the drain and vent.
 
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Old 05-21-17, 12:16 PM
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I just realized some of the information I gave you about the vent setup was incorrect! I just want to verify that I can still go ahead with the plan.

In regards to the two vents that come out of the roof. One is the 3" stack that the toilet runs into the other is directly connected to the shower drain and ONLY VENTS THE SHOWER. So basically the vent I am trying to tie into, is connected to the main 3" somewhere in the wall above where the sewage and sink drain in.

So I want to be sure it is ok to eliminate the vent coming off the main cast iron T where the washer was tied into before I start cutting into the pipe! Or if I need to leave that vent attached to the cast iron pipe and just cap off where I put the red square at the bottom and tie in where I put the red square at the top?

I have attached a full picture of the main pipe area.
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Old 05-21-17, 12:43 PM
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If your cutting that vent/drain out for the washer then use all that for the ejector..

Tie the drain in down below instead of cutting the 3".

Then cut that tee out and tie vent for ejector there..
 
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Old 05-21-17, 12:59 PM
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The only problem with doing it that way is the washer vent pipe is only 1 1/2" pipe. Coming in from 2" pipe doesnt seem ideal.
 
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Old 05-21-17, 03:04 PM
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The vent can be 1 1/2

Show me a pic of where the washer goes into the cast... close up @ different angles
 
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Old 05-21-17, 03:27 PM
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These angles good?

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Old 05-21-17, 06:20 PM
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Does that cast hub have a size on it? I know 1 1 /2 you say coming out but the hub may be 2"

Easy to stick a donut in there to convert to 2"..

Because I dont know how your going to cap it anyway without doing so..
 
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Old 05-22-17, 07:18 AM
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I just looked and I can't see any markings on that hub that indicate a size (wierd).

What if I just tie into the 3" for sewer and tie into the 1 1/2 for vent and just cap off (or even just leave it uncapped?) the pipe the washer drains into?? I know it isn't perfect but it will all be in a closet set aside for plumbing access only anyways.

I really wanted to get this done before I have to go back to work tomorrow :/
 

Last edited by rufunky; 05-22-17 at 07:48 AM.
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Old 05-22-17, 08:34 AM
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Youll have a trap then not getting water, and disconnecting the vent to it( If you go that route) will siphon out/ or go dry from evaporation..

Then deadly sewer gas will invade the home..
 
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Old 05-22-17, 09:00 AM
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Ok, what if I just cap that washer drain pipe and tie in the 2" vent to the 1 1/2" then the 2" sewer to the 3"? At home depot now
 
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Old 05-22-17, 09:21 AM
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Ok, what if I just cap that washer drain pipe
How will you do that? You will need to remove that whole piece from the hub and replace as I stated below.

If your going to remove it and its 2" then your ok..

You just need to chisel the lead out... ( If they even used lead..)




 
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Old 05-22-17, 12:14 PM
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Oh, I thought I could just put a 1 1/2" pvc cap over the end of the pipe that the washer hose is going into.

It looks like the cast t might be 2" as it looks like they used the outside of a 1 1/2 female end if that makes sense. Is there any other way to tell if it is indeed 2"?
 
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Old 05-22-17, 12:51 PM
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Yeah I guess cap the washer stand pipe and after you cut the vent cap that too..

Leave it then until you can get a plumber to remove it all and just cap it ..
 
 

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