How do I get these to pipes properly connected?
#1
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How do I get these to pipes properly connected? This is a vent pipe so it has to keep a slight incline.
As you can see the pipes aren't exactly parallel to one another. I can get the together but I feel like I really have to force it and the pipes aren't going to sit flush against the connectors unless I angle the cuts. so what do I need to join them properly?


As you can see the pipes aren't exactly parallel to one another. I can get the together but I feel like I really have to force it and the pipes aren't going to sit flush against the connectors unless I angle the cuts. so what do I need to join them properly?



#2
You can see in the second picture you have them sprung together with a lot of force.
What I've done is to use a heatgun to VERY carefully heat the 90.
You can also use a blowdryer. Whichever you use keep it moving or the fitting will distort.
It may be easier to heat the pipe instead where the red line illustrates.
What I've done is to use a heatgun to VERY carefully heat the 90.
You can also use a blowdryer. Whichever you use keep it moving or the fitting will distort.
It may be easier to heat the pipe instead where the red line illustrates.

#3
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The joint on the T and the joint on the 2" to 1 1/2" reducer (where your red line is) are not glued yet. The bend you see is most likely the jared dry connection.
I was just trying to see if I could get them to stay together. With that information do you still suggest I try to heat the pipe and bend?
I was just trying to see if I could get them to stay together. With that information do you still suggest I try to heat the pipe and bend?
#4
It's a toss up as it's only the vent but I would try to make a small bend to relieve some of the pressure.
#5
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Should I try bending the 1 1/2 " pipe between the elbow and the T? and will it effect the glued joints??
#7
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Well I tried to bend it but It didn't want to get hot enough with just a hair dryer :/
Anyway I angled the T fitting onto the old pipe, made sure I pushed it on far enough to cover the primer. I think it should be good to go, what do you think? Its a bit messy but this was my first time so meh

Anyway I angled the T fitting onto the old pipe, made sure I pushed it on far enough to cover the primer. I think it should be good to go, what do you think? Its a bit messy but this was my first time so meh


#8
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I will second the use of heat to bend a pvc pipe. You do have to be very careful and it is best to do it on pipe that has no solvent or primer. If there is solvent and primer on the pipe, it will loosen up and compromise the weld. However, I've removed pvc fittings I've screwed up on with a heat gun and then cleaned the pipe like new and fixed my foul up with new fittings.
Anyway, back to the question....I've used a 500/1000 degree heat gun and slowly warmed things up. When they begin to get hot to the touch I slowly apply pressure and the pipe will flex. I will caution that the pipe gets super hot and if it gets too hot it can warp or collapse on you. Slow and steady is best. Also it is best to apply heat on the entire circumeference of the pipe so the entire thing has a chance to heat up and cool down evenly.
I don't know if this is allowed by code. I am a DIY guy and when I had to bend a 4" PVC waste pipe to meet up with a roof vent and a wye for a toilet connection, the heat gun was the only option. It worked and the pipe never cracked or split or failed.
Anyway, back to the question....I've used a 500/1000 degree heat gun and slowly warmed things up. When they begin to get hot to the touch I slowly apply pressure and the pipe will flex. I will caution that the pipe gets super hot and if it gets too hot it can warp or collapse on you. Slow and steady is best. Also it is best to apply heat on the entire circumeference of the pipe so the entire thing has a chance to heat up and cool down evenly.
I don't know if this is allowed by code. I am a DIY guy and when I had to bend a 4" PVC waste pipe to meet up with a roof vent and a wye for a toilet connection, the heat gun was the only option. It worked and the pipe never cracked or split or failed.
#9
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Any suggestions for where on the main 3" stack I should cut into to install the T for the sewage pipe from the ejector pump? I'll be doing that this weekend.
#10
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I bought a long 90 and some 2" pvc so I am going to assume that where ever it lands will be fine?