How to tie into a pipe with not much give?
#1
06-10-17, 01:26 PM
How to tie into a pipe with not much give?
What steps should I take to tie this y into the main as there does not seem like there will be much give even once the pipe is cut. Not having much luck on youtube!
#2
06-10-17, 01:36 PM
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#4
06-10-17, 01:53 PM
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#6
06-10-17, 02:12 PM
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Because the smaller pipe is facing the 4" at 90 degrees. Cut the 4" higher than where you have the T, in the pic.
#7
06-10-17, 02:25 PM
That smaller pipe no longer has a 90 on it. That's what I was saying, I brought it back and purchased the 45 elbow.
#8
06-10-17, 02:41 PM
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#9
06-10-17, 03:32 PM
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Do as you propose with the 45. That TY is correct..
You need to use two no hubs and roll them back on the stack. Glue two pieces of pipe at each end of the TY that make it fit what you cut out.
Then roll the no hubs on..
You need to use two no hubs and roll them back on the stack. Glue two pieces of pipe at each end of the TY that make it fit what you cut out.
Then roll the no hubs on..
#10
06-10-17, 03:36 PM
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Watch what this guy does at the 10 :43 mark.. Its a plumber thing and you need to be plumber to know these things...LOL..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WArtVCHf0b8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WArtVCHf0b8
#11
06-10-17, 04:05 PM
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10:43 Did you mean that he rolled the rubber back to make a cuff? That's a good trick. What wasn't that good was that it took him 5:30 minutes to realize that he should hang the light & use 2 hands.
#12
06-10-17, 04:42 PM
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Yes roll rubber back on both no hubs. Dont forget to put the bands on the pipe before hand.
Rolling back the no hub couplings is really the only way to fit a pipe with no play.
They make glue slip fittings but you must be quick and you often run into trouble
Rolling back the no hub couplings is really the only way to fit a pipe with no play.
They make glue slip fittings but you must be quick and you often run into trouble
#13
06-10-17, 05:03 PM
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I didn't watch the video but no-hubs are designed just for this purpose, to insert a section of pipe.
Being able to slide the steel jacket back and folding the rubber is what allows you to have a connection you can trust. You can get the ends of the pipe pretty close.
If installed properly the no-hub can be trusted to not leak.
Being able to slide the steel jacket back and folding the rubber is what allows you to have a connection you can trust. You can get the ends of the pipe pretty close.
If installed properly the no-hub can be trusted to not leak.
#14
06-11-17, 08:32 AM
Thanks lawrosa. That video was welcoming sounded like a Boston accent? rolling back the rubber is gonna help a lot! I could see myself busting my knuckles trying to slide it over the two pipes! Any specific hubs I should get or will Home depot ones be fine?
#16
06-11-17, 08:52 AM
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No hub is a rubber coupling with a full band around it. If you look inside the rubber there is an integral stop inside..This is a code reqirement.
The fernco type with only the two pipe clamps are not used per code.
The fernco type with only the two pipe clamps are not used per code.
#18
06-11-17, 10:02 AM
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4 in. EPDM Rubber Shielded Coupling-P3000-44 - The Home Depot
The link above is a 4" and should be commonly available.
The link above is a 4" and should be commonly available.
#19
06-11-17, 01:30 PM
Thanks for all the help guys. After waiting over a year for my plumber to tie it all in for me it feels great to have it done. Now I can test my ejector that's been sitting there for 2+ years.. Hope I did everything right!
How long do I have to wait for the PVC glue to set in order to use the plumbing??
Also, I left a little gap when dry fitting the 3" pipe coming off the TY to the old 3"to account for the rubber that rests in between. How big of a gap should there of been? I left about 1/8th for each end.
How long do I have to wait for the PVC glue to set in order to use the plumbing??
Also, I left a little gap when dry fitting the 3" pipe coming off the TY to the old 3"to account for the rubber that rests in between. How big of a gap should there of been? I left about 1/8th for each end.
#20
06-11-17, 03:36 PM
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Looks good... Should be good for use quickly.. hour or so.
As long as the clamp grabs and enough rubber to make the seal..
ummmm often the homeowners cut the pieces in the dry fit then when they glue the pieces they realize they insert further then they thought in the hub. Then the pieces cut are too short..
I always glue long pieces then cut afterwards..
Not saying you did that,... just saying...
Also, I left a little gap when dry fitting the 3" pipe coming off the TY to the old 3"to account for the rubber that rests in between. How big of a gap should there of been? I left about 1/8th for each end.
ummmm often the homeowners cut the pieces in the dry fit then when they glue the pieces they realize they insert further then they thought in the hub. Then the pieces cut are too short..
I always glue long pieces then cut afterwards..
Not saying you did that,... just saying...
#21
06-11-17, 03:51 PM
I did cut before gluing the fittings together. I accounted for the shrinkage but realized after how much harder I made my job cutting first :/ haha oh well, if I did it the other way on accident, I wouldn't have learned why it was the better way!
#24
06-12-17, 10:17 AM
Probably took me 10 X longer than one of you pros tho
