Yard hydrant not threading
#1
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Yard hydrant not threading
Hello everyone,
I have been attempting to replace a yard hydrant with a 4' bury depth. The outlet size of the water source pipe is 3/4". The new yard hydrant is 1" so I used a lead free brass reducer to bring it down to 3/4". I had done this with another yard hydrant and it threaded onto the pipe with no issue. However, this one will not thread. The pipe I am attempting to thread it onto has a brass elbow connection that is 3/4" FIP and 3/4" MIP. My only contention at this point as to what the issue could be is that the threads on the elbow connection are stripped and thus not allowing for threading. However, I find this hard to be the case because the old yard hydrant was unscrewed and nothing else was done to the elbow pipe connection since then until the new yard hydrant arrived. Is there something else I could try or something I may be doing incorrectly?
I have been attempting to replace a yard hydrant with a 4' bury depth. The outlet size of the water source pipe is 3/4". The new yard hydrant is 1" so I used a lead free brass reducer to bring it down to 3/4". I had done this with another yard hydrant and it threaded onto the pipe with no issue. However, this one will not thread. The pipe I am attempting to thread it onto has a brass elbow connection that is 3/4" FIP and 3/4" MIP. My only contention at this point as to what the issue could be is that the threads on the elbow connection are stripped and thus not allowing for threading. However, I find this hard to be the case because the old yard hydrant was unscrewed and nothing else was done to the elbow pipe connection since then until the new yard hydrant arrived. Is there something else I could try or something I may be doing incorrectly?
#2
The new valve's threads could be bad. I have thrown away my share of brand new not made in the U.S.A parts that wouldn't work. Always bought another from somewhere else in case the one I bought was just one of many bad ones from the same lot. First though try a nipple in the elbow to test the threads.
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I tried to thread the original yard hydrant back on and it wouldn't thread. I then tried to thread a different yard hydrant I have that I know is good, but it wouldn't thread either. All three yard hydrants I tried are the correct size but will not start the threading action. I applied a pipe thread sealant to prevent leaks and to give some lubricity to the threading process, but it did not help. I know it has to be 3/4", but someone told me it could be 5/8". However, I found no yard hydrants that are 5/8" plus the original yard hydrant I removed is 3/4".
I would like to change the elbow piece for a new one, but the problem is that I cannot reach down to unscrew it and replace it. The hole that gives me access to the pipe and elbow is surrounded by concrete so I would have to break the concrete in order to gain access unless there is a tool or method that can accomplish this without breaking the concrete.
I would like to change the elbow piece for a new one, but the problem is that I cannot reach down to unscrew it and replace it. The hole that gives me access to the pipe and elbow is surrounded by concrete so I would have to break the concrete in order to gain access unless there is a tool or method that can accomplish this without breaking the concrete.
#4
tried to thread the original yard hydrant back on and it wouldn't thread. I then tried to thread a different yard hydrant I have that I know is good, but it wouldn't thread either. All three yard hydrants I tried are the correct size but will not start the threading action.
#7
Ray2047
OP said replacement of elbow presented problems since it would include breaking concrete and asked if there was a tool that could do the job instead. That’s why I recommended a pipe tap and die. I agree with you most home owners don’t have these tools. That’s why I said rent. Only the OP can determine what is most cost effective, breaking concrete or renting a pipe tap and die.
OP said replacement of elbow presented problems since it would include breaking concrete and asked if there was a tool that could do the job instead. That’s why I recommended a pipe tap and die. I agree with you most home owners don’t have these tools. That’s why I said rent. Only the OP can determine what is most cost effective, breaking concrete or renting a pipe tap and die.
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I went to HD and asked about renting a pipe tap and die set but they told me they don't have those items available for rent. I was also told there wouldn't be a way for me to take the pipe tap and die and use it as far down in the hole as I need to.
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The plumber quoted me over $2000 to complete the job even though the only actual plumbing fitting that will be changed is a lead free brass 3/4" FIP 3/4" MIP elbow. The concrete in the way is the reason the job quote is so high. As a last ditch effort, I bought a 1" black iron pipe and attached a 1" to 3/4" black iron reducing coupler and then tried to screw it on but once again it wouldn't screw on. Everyone who has looked at the wear marks on the fittings that I have tried to screw on said they seem to be too small for the threaded elbow I am trying to screw onto. However, I don't know of any threaded pipe sizes between 3/4" and 1".
#13
Before I'd pay that price I'd be buying a tap Airgas - RTC35835 - Ridgid® E-5116 3/4" - 14 NPT Carbon Steel Right Hand Pipe Tap
And making up an extention for it out of a black iron pipe coupling and piece of pipe, taking it to a welding shop so they can tack weld the coupling to the tap and at the threaded joint so it all stays together.
And making up an extention for it out of a black iron pipe coupling and piece of pipe, taking it to a welding shop so they can tack weld the coupling to the tap and at the threaded joint so it all stays together.