weight limits on pipe - supporting pipe "right"


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Old 08-04-17, 09:58 AM
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weight limits on pipe - supporting pipe "right"

i just added the ball valves and shiny part at the bottombut did *not* change the pipe support. (i'm thinking of adding more support?)

the support is the same as some "proffesional" plumber had installed (a single copper nail in 2x4).

worrysome to me is ballvalve+pipe on right: notice how it makes a 90 degree and the weight of pipe+hose is supported by one copper pipe nail pressing on pipe. (if the weight of the pipe + hose causes an issue, or if "bumped badly", there would be a pipe burst)

one coppper hook puts pressure on pipe (i'm not too excited about that: these can form small dents in pipe)

HISTORY: the professional had even more weight on it per say: before there was faucet on the 2x4 with 1 hose down, and under that a 2' copper extension hooked left headed toward washer (to provide shorter washer hose need) - the 2' extension parallel to floor was roughly supported by electrical wire wrapped around a nail.

FIX: i suppose i can use a non-corrosive strap over a nail which suspends the opposite ammount of weight OR find some way to better hold pipe+fixture.

CODE: what is the code here ? url to it or something please ?

ADVICE: does the above look "right" or no, looks wrong you'd suggest to fix it ?

(details: the two hoses about counterbalance each other, the colored hose is supported by a tie to reduce sagging (cannot be seen) and though bent, isn't pulling much. as it is: the pipes can slide if pushed, but not on their own. NOTE: the lower fixture below the 2x4 and nail is relying on the soldered parts to stay together to hold the weight of the hoses)
 
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Old 08-04-17, 10:53 AM
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Ideally the piping below the valves would be longer and then securely fastened to the wall (using either strut or another 2x4) and then the tees to the hoses. Additionally, the tees should have 90[SUP]o[/SUP] elbows added so the hoses do not make that gradual bend but hang straight.

However, as long as the piping immediately above the valves is securely fastened to that existing 2x it is acceptable. Bent nails or loose strapping is NOT securely fastened.
 
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Old 08-04-17, 11:34 AM
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ideally yes. however i was trying to save cost / buy the least number of fittings/copper required - hadn't thought through how additional strapping pro plumber didn't do would effect it.

i think i may add hose tenders / straps. i'll certainly add a (vertical) board and put 2 straps || to floor.
 
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Old 08-04-17, 02:42 PM
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I see two problems:

The pro plumber did not support the fixtures he "floated them" (piping below valve supported by solder joints, value unsupported too): so i had no idea i would have to do better than that, or what problem i'd be adding by making that rotated angle (difficulty in supporting each of the 4 in a rigid manner - because it wasn't rigid at all before). (damn thing is an insurance person inspected it all and said it was all normal, the J pipe in the back, which i had to make a special lid for - it had been allowing sewer gasses in the basement)

I should de-solder the lower T and re-solder on an assembly that I can easier access and make "rigid". (i hate this because the dang copper fixtures cost me nearly $20 - and unsure i'll find a way to use them).

I should do it while "the solder is still fresh" - not wait a week. Reasons to put off not to get started: #1.

Lesson learned! Why I thought a pro installation was a good enough guide to go by I don't know, guess I was in a hurry and trying to save $$ on parts.
 

Last edited by argile; 08-04-17 at 03:17 PM.
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Old 08-04-17, 07:19 PM
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This job isn't pretty but I don't see any major problems, The copper dropping down the wall is strong enough to support the valves, tee, and hoses.

If you want a better idea of how to secure the "bottom" (valve area) of the pipes coming down, I would suggest post a close-up picture similar to below:

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Probably all you need are some shims and copper tubing straps to hold the valve securely against the 2x4.
 
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Old 08-11-17, 07:48 PM
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Ok. I figured out the hard way: when doing 15-20 connections or more: you have to plumb the pipe (incl. copper clamps), then flux, then reinstall and solder. This advice i found on youtube about plumbing a new home on a jobsite (many connections at once all in final placement / plumbed before beginning).

The 2nd photo shows my solution to sewer gasses in the basement (smells frequently not always): before the J was open like a sink with copper just hung on pvc: now it's closed. Note the 'pro plumber' tied into the heel of the drain illegally and allows crossover too (not seen: there is a backflow preventer from sink to drain ... likely not very useful but pro thought it was code). Why the J doesn't prevent gasses I'm not totally sure but illegal drain connection i bet didn't help.

((Bwt: not shown in pics is I did something similar outdoors and tried to connect it indoors (just two joints to solder indoors), taking some advice i found about going one joint at a time is easier to keep clean (clean before each so nearby solders don't dirty: but that's wrong - if that's an issue you have other issues to correct first): but because the wall is not plumb (and pipes don't follow wall) - my "hold it with nails failed and left things crooked. Another issue is i hadn't well planned where wood would be so ended up getting carbon dust (and flame). hard to find but i findally found youtube video showing me how plumbers do many connections on a new home / jobsite. I again decided "i just dont like it even though i can fix the 1 of 16 joints that seep".))Name:  IMG_0017.jpg
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Old 08-11-17, 07:51 PM
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(the drain, this must be 25 chraacters long) Name:  IMG_0015.jpg
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