Made a rookie mistake when we ordered our new bathroom vanity and forgot to check the position of our plumbing. Long story short, the current plumbing is about 6" to the right of where it needs to be for the new vanity. So either we need a new vanity (or swap the face?) or move the plumbing.

The new vanity has drawers where the current plumbing config is and short of shortening the drawer not sure what else to do.

Main question is: when I cut into the drain pipe - how do I put in a new tee in that goes to the left? Will the upper vent portion fall down or move? If it doesn't move, how the heck do I get a new piece installed, some kind of T-coupler? No worries on making the cut for the stud.

Pics below, thanks!

(background is a pretty decent DIY'er, currently at the tail end of a whole house re-model all done myself with dad's help who retired from the biz - his weak spot is plumbing LOL)

 

Do you need to move water pipes too?

Im a plumber 30 years. I would open up other side of wall. Cut stud... Heat tee up and turn it 90 degrees. re-solder/flux. ..Cut arm to size and add elbow so arm comes out to new position.

Water the same. Remove valves, heat and turn... Then two new ells and pipe to new area between drain...

Or on vanity's with drawers I put both water lines on one side of drain pipe...

 

Thanks for the reply Mike, couple of follow ups:

- Would you leave the fitting in after heating & twisting it? If so, can I properly re-flux & solder it in place?

I'm comfortable soldering when putting things together, but not sure if it stays together what to do. I'm just not sure if that vent pipe has any play at all, no experience with that. I'd assume it is secured somewhere up there and I'd have a hard time maneuvering the tee out?

The water pipes need moved as well, no worries with those.

 

You might be able to just use a 90° ABS street elbow coming off the copper stub out. You will need a special no-hub coupler designed for copper to ABS/PVC. You will also need to cut the copper stub back to the 1.5" diameter part (cut off the copper trap adapter).

Connecting Cast Iron, Plastic, or Steel to Copper

3001-110 1-1/2" CI, PL or ST to 1" Copper or 3/4" PL
3001-1125 1-1/2" CI, PL or ST to 1-1/4" Copper, or 1" PL
3001-150 1-1/2" CI, PL. or ST. to 1-1/2" Copper or 1-1/4" PL

I believe the #3001-150 is the coupler you need. Here's a link:
1-1/2 in. EPDM Rubber Shielded Coupling-P3001-150 - The Home Depot

Once the 90° street elbow is installed, your set up should look like the pic below, only reversed:

 

Hey Brian-

Unfortunately that won't work either as the drain pipe comes right through where the drawer is connected to the back of the cabinet. Otherwise it just might've worked.

Still leaning toward just rotating it if possible.

 

Youll need hi heat to turn that Tee. And know what your doing as not to start a fite... ( Big tip torch)..

But I been doing this long time...

Otherwise you need to cut out tee, and use mission coupling style no hub ferncos... These will adapt copper to PVC...

 

I bet Mike (Lawrosa) would have no problem turning that tee... but I tend to have enough troubles doing something like that with 3/4" pipe, I don't think I'd be able to get it done without a significant amount of cursing for 1.5" pipe.

I would probably go the cut & no-hub coupler route... or more likely, I'd use Brian's solution and shorten the drawer. Just my $0.02.

 

Thanks again for the responses! No way I can shorten the drawer, wife's orders

I'll attach a couple of more pics below but decided not to test my tee heating/twisting abilities and cut it out instead. Current plan is to utilize the two Fernco sleeves pictured and slide a new PVC tee into place then tighten. Any downsides to that approach?

I did buy a couple of no-hub couplers but the smallest ones I could find are still a but large for the 1.5" OD copper pipes. Didn't like the gap they left after tightening. Also, there is little no to vertical play in the pipes so I'm not sure how I could make the no-hubs work? These Fernco 1 1/4" sleeves seem to do the trick with a super nice connection.

I'm on a work trip so plan to put it all together Monday when I get back home. Need to cut the copper pipes again to make way for the final tee piece but almost there I think.

 

That's a pressure type T. Not legal to be used in a drain you just need a sanitary waste T. It's got a little sweep in it and is directional. They make no hub couplers specifically to go from copper to pvc- the copper side is a little bit smaller.

 

You need mission type no hubs per code..

One side is smaller as copper and pvc are two different diameters

LDR Industries 1-1/2 in. x 1-1/2 in. PVC FPT x FPT No-Hub Coupling-808 cNHC-150 - The Home Depot

And yes you need to use a sanitary tee..

1-1/2 in. PVC DWV All-Hub Sanitary Tee-C4811HD112 - The Home Depot

I admire you for your effort.... This is how we learn....

 

As Mike and SDPlumber said, you have the wrong type rubber couplers. Here's a link from my post #4 for the correct fitting:

1-1/2 in. EPDM Rubber Shielded Coupling-P3001-150 - The Home Depot

The P3001-150 no-hub will fit snuggly on the copper and the other end will fit snuggly on standard 1.5" pipe. Tighten the screws to 60 inch pounds and you will have no leaks

And just to add to the above, you are doing a great job and almost there....

 

Really appreciate all the advice, here is where it got me. All done I think (and hope!) just gotta close it all up after testing.

About to water test and see if it all works, I'll report back soon.

 

Thats beautiful!!!!

 

Suggest a nail plate prior to closing it up. During a remodel I wound up putting a nail through a copper supply because the previous person did not do that. Understand it's going to be behind a cabinet but you never know....until the water starts dripping out the bottom of the wall.

 

Thanks again for all the advice, came together nicely with no leaks at all. Now I could figure out why my new fancy toilet is leaking...