compression closet flange

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  #1  
Old 05-07-01, 04:43 AM
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I am thinking about using one of these because the pipe that is stubbed for my basment toilet is badly out of plumb. The 4" stubbed pipe is plumb from side to side, but is badly out from front to back, which will make an ordinary flange seat very crooked. I'm sure this is not what this flange is designed for, but I'm thinking the rubber compression ring will help make up for the pipe being out of plumb and will still be able to seal.
What do you guys think? Thanks.
 
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  #2  
Old 05-07-01, 07:23 AM
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How far off is it out of plumb from front to back?
What type of pipe is the stubout?
I think that I would still try to use a normal wax seal, and shim the toilet level, OR breakout and re-plumb the closet bend straight.
Maybe one of the pro plumbers in here (I'm not one), can help you.
Good Luck!
Mike
 
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Old 05-07-01, 08:18 AM
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If it's that far off then redoing the closet elbow is a must.

If you want it to be trouble free leaks at the base then you want this to be right, even if you shim the toilet and add all that wax, later on in the future you will wish you had corrected it the right way, what will happen is when it leaks and you don't notice it right away, it can or will discolor your finish floor.

So do yourself a favor, sweat it out, and make it right.

Ron
 
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Old 05-07-01, 10:59 AM
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The stubbed pipe is a 4" pvc. If I stick a standard flange in the pipe it is off about 3/8" from front to back due to the 4" pipe not being plumb. Redoing it is really not an option at this point. I would have to break out alot of concrete and the pipe also runs under a load bearing wall which has me nervous already. The flooring is ceramic tile on top of concrete, so I figure the worst that can happen is that my grout may discolor or some tiles come loose. The only way I can see it will leak is if water pushes it's way up past the rubber bushing. I thought about also adding a nice bead of silicone caulk where the flange meets the finish floor.

[Edited by johnjk on 05-07-01 at 02:11]
 
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Old 05-07-01, 01:21 PM
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I'd just use a double wax ring and shim it, like Old Guy said.
 
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Old 05-07-01, 01:55 PM
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You should be able to make it work.
Drill the tile/concrete floor with a masonry bit for the anchor holes for screwing the flange to the floor.
As Rick said, just use double wax rings, but I would use white tub-and-tile caulk instead of silicone around the base. It will look better and be easier to scrape off later.
There are plastic beveled shims made for the purpose, or you can use beveled cedar shingle strips for shims. Just use a level across the bowl.
Good luck!
Mike
 
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Old 05-07-01, 03:10 PM
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Actually, I meant I was going to put the silicone underneath the base of the compression flange so no water would seep up past the rubber bushing and above the flange onto the floor. Do you guys mean I should just use a regular flange and shim it? Thanks for the help.
 
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Old 05-07-01, 05:28 PM
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Yep. regular flange, double wax rings, and shim the bottom of the toilet (keep it from rocking), not the flange.

I would not even use the Fernco fitting.
 
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Old 05-07-01, 05:59 PM
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Thanks for the help guys. I don't mean to sound like I'm doubting your expertise, so don't take this that way.
What's wrong with the compression, or Fernco fitting though?
 
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Old 05-07-01, 06:14 PM
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There is nothing wrong with using a fernco, as a matter of fact if you could possibly use the type of coupling which looks like this then this could give you the 3/8" play needed to make the flange level on floor.

It's not the floor thats unlevel it's the flange, and shimming the toilet to make up 3/8" gap is only asking for problems.

I seen this too many times, the wax will fail count on it.

Either way good luck.

If I was on this job, like all jobs I encounter with non-level flanges, I would never garantee there would not be leakage in the future.

[Edited by Plumber2000 on 05-08-01 at 07:06]
 
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