Proper slope for sink drain?
#41
12-01-17, 08:22 PM
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18-20" off finish floor is a pretty standard height where you will connect the trap. How high is the tee at the stack? It's still got to go uphill from there.
#42
12-01-17, 08:30 PM
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A regular flexible coupler will not fit the pipe snuggly. Also, a shielded coupler has a middle stop and a ribbed interior, they are leak free and approved for in-wall use.
To install the no-hub, slide the metal jacket back and fold/roll back the rubber over itself and insert the new section of pipe. Roll the rubber back up over new pipe and realign the jacket.
Tighten the screws to 60 inch pounds.
To install the no-hub, slide the metal jacket back and fold/roll back the rubber over itself and insert the new section of pipe. Roll the rubber back up over new pipe and realign the jacket.
Tighten the screws to 60 inch pounds.
#43
12-01-17, 08:34 PM
Super Moderator
Yea looks too high... looks just like befor you cut it?
Yes two no hub rubber couplings with shield is what I would of used...
But after all we told you we are not sure what your doing...
The sink may be high but you still need trap, strainer/pop up to put in sink...
You looking for trouble IMO....
Yes two no hub rubber couplings with shield is what I would of used...
But after all we told you we are not sure what your doing...
The sink may be high but you still need trap, strainer/pop up to put in sink...
You looking for trouble IMO....
#44
12-01-17, 09:23 PM
This vanity kind of sucks. But too late, I'm stuck with it. The bottom of the center cabinet section is 12.5" off the floor, and where the drain was happened to be in between 2 drawers, which was nice, except that at that position, the cleanout was only .25" off the vanity, so I'd never be able to unscrew it. So I moved it up to the next 'in-between' drawer space, which is where it is now, and I measured and lined up everything, it will fit, why is that bad if the pipe is high? As long as the parts fit isn't that what counts?
#47
12-01-17, 10:40 PM
Super Moderator
That may be a mission style you show... Cast iron to PVC... I believe different OD's...
I use the other homestore brands...
Make sure what you get is pvc to pvc...
But I use these. Same as I get at local supply house...
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Fernco-3-in...ngs/1000075375
I use the other homestore brands...
Make sure what you get is pvc to pvc...
But I use these. Same as I get at local supply house...
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Fernco-3-in...ngs/1000075375
#50
12-02-17, 06:14 AM
Group Moderator
Shielded is the outside metal wrap. It's a requirement. No hub means it is adjustable to fit a variety of pipes. The hub is the wide female flange of a fitting. You will be slipping it over pipe... not a hub.
#51
12-02-17, 08:41 AM
Super Moderator
The P3000-33 you linked to at HD is a high quality coupler, it will work. It's for connecting cast iron to plastic or plastic to plastic.
#54
12-02-17, 09:40 AM
Super Moderator
Should go on easy... The trick to fit them is put the bands on, then the rubber, then roll the rubber back. Fit pipe and roll rubber back onto pipe..
Ill try to find that video or pic of the process..
Ill try to find that video or pic of the process..
#55
12-02-17, 09:46 AM
Super Moderator
Becuase you dont have play in pipe, most likely you roll back the rubber on both ends... Fit pipe then roll back. Slide and tighten band and your done..
That coupling you linked to may work... I really cant remember if cast s the same OD as PVC... I dont work with cast too much anymore...
That coupling you linked to may work... I really cant remember if cast s the same OD as PVC... I dont work with cast too much anymore...
#56
12-02-17, 01:31 PM
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Cast and pvc have different od's AFAIK
Here's the specs on the 33, it fits plastic to plastic. The P-300 at the end is the mission equivalent.
Connecting Plastic, Steel or Extra-Heavy Cast Iron to Plastic, Steel or Extra-Heavy Cast Iron
3005-33 3" PL, St. or XH CI to 3" PL, St. or XH CI P-300
#57
12-02-17, 02:51 PM
All done.
I ended up cutting about 3/16" off the pipe to get me some play, so there's about 3/32" of space between the pipe and the stop in each coupler...but, no leaks. Those things are great.
Thanks for all your ideas / help.
I ended up cutting about 3/16" off the pipe to get me some play, so there's about 3/32" of space between the pipe and the stop in each coupler...but, no leaks. Those things are great.
Thanks for all your ideas / help.
#59
12-03-17, 07:11 AM
Why did they put insulation in an interior wall like that? Especially on a bathroom where the door stays open 99% of the time and is in the same heating zone as the hallway. Or is it there because vent pipes are suppose to be insulated?
What are your thoughts on a PVC union, right where the pipe enters the vanity... "in case" (God I hope not) the vanity has to be removed for some reason? I know in a normal situation (like my downstairs sink) where the drain comes from the rear, the trap nut can be removed and slipped off then the vanity can be pulled away.
Something like this.
What are your thoughts on a PVC union, right where the pipe enters the vanity... "in case" (God I hope not) the vanity has to be removed for some reason? I know in a normal situation (like my downstairs sink) where the drain comes from the rear, the trap nut can be removed and slipped off then the vanity can be pulled away.
Something like this.
#61
12-03-17, 08:06 AM
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I would not install a union. If you ever need to remove the vanity you could cut the pipe about 1" from the elbow and install a glued coupler or use a no-hub coupler. I would use the no-hub fitting if it ever arises.
I said this looks good, but........... Are you sure the pipe is not too high? Mike mentioned this.
It looks like the pipe is too high to install a sink, pop-up, and trap.
It's better to fix it now, the hole in the side of the cabinet will rarely be seen.
If the pipe is too high you can use a push-pull stopper instead of a lever pop up.
I said this looks good, but........... Are you sure the pipe is not too high? Mike mentioned this.
It looks like the pipe is too high to install a sink, pop-up, and trap.
It's better to fix it now, the hole in the side of the cabinet will rarely be seen.
If the pipe is too high you can use a push-pull stopper instead of a lever pop up.
Last edited by Handyone; 12-03-17 at 10:32 AM. Reason: Push-Pull
#62
12-03-17, 11:27 AM
Haha yes, I'm sure this time. Last time you guys said it you were right, and I moved the sani-tee down when I did the flex couplings. The pipe attached to the stopper has, what I measured to be, an acceptable clamp range of 21 - 24" inches off the floor. Where that pipe is coming out of the wall, the center of the pipe is at 21". I'll probably have about .5" rise to get to the sink, so I'll be good.
