Gas Pipe modification
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Gas Pipe modification
Plan on installing humidifier on my hot air furnace but with the current space / layout - the only way of doing it , is to move the current gas pipe. I noted that it would be easy but the new pipe would be running about 6 inches away from the exhaust.
Wonder if that's too close to the hot exhaust ?
Few other questions:
I heard Home Depot does free threading on black pipes.... anyone had any experience ?
Also, should I shut off my water heater while the gas main is in the off position? Not sure if it would be an issue if heater wanted to heat up the water but there was no gas coming....? And later, once I reconnect and test everything for leaks...how to best "remove" air from the pipes ? I would imagine the mix of air and gas in the pipes could cause some misfire at the heater or the oven
Thanks!
Wonder if that's too close to the hot exhaust ?
Few other questions:
I heard Home Depot does free threading on black pipes.... anyone had any experience ?
Also, should I shut off my water heater while the gas main is in the off position? Not sure if it would be an issue if heater wanted to heat up the water but there was no gas coming....? And later, once I reconnect and test everything for leaks...how to best "remove" air from the pipes ? I would imagine the mix of air and gas in the pipes could cause some misfire at the heater or the oven
Thanks!
#2
Depot does thread pipe. They have many sizes ready to buy that they've threaded already. Pickup several different lengths and bring back what you don't need. I always buy spares and just return the extras. I would check the fit between a fitting and the pieces of pipe you buy as they have a tendency to thread using old dies which makes for sloppy connections.
I don't believe you have an issue with the proximity to the exhaust flue.
You can turn the W.H. off. You'll have to set it to PILOT to light it anyway. Bleed the furthest point first. A plus if it's the stove as the stove top is the best way to purge the air...... not the oven. Anything with a pilot light can take a while to purge.
I don't believe you have an issue with the proximity to the exhaust flue.
You can turn the W.H. off. You'll have to set it to PILOT to light it anyway. Bleed the furthest point first. A plus if it's the stove as the stove top is the best way to purge the air...... not the oven. Anything with a pilot light can take a while to purge.
#3
Forum Topic Moderator
I would repeat everything Pete said - it's all spot-on. It'll take a minute or two of trying the pilot light on the water heater, but it'll light finally. No worries about a misfire or anything, once the pilot is on, you're good to go.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
How about CSST - I just read that those are easier to work with since they are flexible...I would just break the current connection from the main run and run about 8 ft of this CSST out of the way of the new humidifier and right to the last 6 inches coming from the furnace..... wouldn't have to do 3 additional connections.
By the way.... not sure why but currently I have about 50 inches of 1inch pipe going to about 20 inch of 3/4 and then finally before the furnace it is reduced to 1/2 inch for the last 14 inches or so.... is there anything about gas piping that wouldn't allow you to reduce from 1inch to 1/2 ??
Thanks!
By the way.... not sure why but currently I have about 50 inches of 1inch pipe going to about 20 inch of 3/4 and then finally before the furnace it is reduced to 1/2 inch for the last 14 inches or so.... is there anything about gas piping that wouldn't allow you to reduce from 1inch to 1/2 ??
Thanks!
#5
Forum Topic Moderator
CSST is great, but I personally wouldn't use it for one little section. Most of the reason is me being a bit OCD... but also if you use CSST, you need to bond (ground) the gas line which is another step in the installation process. If it were my house, I'd stick with black steel the whole way. If you have a good pipe wrench, it's pretty easy to assemble.
Larger piping is often used to the furnace to provide a high volume of gas, even though the gas valve is typically only for 1/2" pipe. I honestly don't know the theory for using 2' of 3/4" pipe before reducing to 1/2" instead of going 1" the whole way then decreasing directly to 1/2". I've seen it done that way though - so maybe there is a reason. Now you have me curious too!
Larger piping is often used to the furnace to provide a high volume of gas, even though the gas valve is typically only for 1/2" pipe. I honestly don't know the theory for using 2' of 3/4" pipe before reducing to 1/2" instead of going 1" the whole way then decreasing directly to 1/2". I've seen it done that way though - so maybe there is a reason. Now you have me curious too!
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Well...I looked in HD and also a few internet places and can't find 1inch to 1/2 inch reducer so seems one must step down gradually so to speak.....
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Seems unless I am licensed I can't buy the CSST ??
Kind of weird if I can still buy black pipe....
Kind of weird if I can still buy black pipe....
#10
Forum Topic Moderator
Seems unless I am licensed I can't buy the CSST ??
HOME-FLEX - The Easy Choice for Professionals
I've never heard of it in terms of purchasing the piping.