Increase water pressure to refridgerator
#1
12-27-17, 06:20 PM
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Increase water pressure to refridgerator
Good evening!
We recently had our kitchen redone and we added a refrigerator that has a water connection. Our contractor tappled into a cold water line with a saddle valve and there is a 1/4" line feeding to the fridge. It's a Samsung refrigerator with the Samsung filter and the speed of the water dispenser is piss poor. I'm wondering if it has to do with the fact that it's connected with a saddle valve? I imagine the water pressure that IS going to the line is fine because the other end of the line is feeding to outdoor water and that gets plenty of pressure.
I'm asking this because I'm wondering if I install a T-fitting, in order to eliminate the saddle valve, would that raise the pressure? Or would I be wasting my time? Thanks in advance!
Very respectfully,
Ryan
We recently had our kitchen redone and we added a refrigerator that has a water connection. Our contractor tappled into a cold water line with a saddle valve and there is a 1/4" line feeding to the fridge. It's a Samsung refrigerator with the Samsung filter and the speed of the water dispenser is piss poor. I'm wondering if it has to do with the fact that it's connected with a saddle valve? I imagine the water pressure that IS going to the line is fine because the other end of the line is feeding to outdoor water and that gets plenty of pressure.
I'm asking this because I'm wondering if I install a T-fitting, in order to eliminate the saddle valve, would that raise the pressure? Or would I be wasting my time? Thanks in advance!
Very respectfully,
Ryan
#2
12-27-17, 06:44 PM
Group Moderator
Welcome to the forums.
In many areas those saddle tap type of valves are no longer code compliant. I have not had overall good luck with them and in many cases they do reduce water flow. I would definitely put in a standard tee with a ball valve.
In many areas those saddle tap type of valves are no longer code compliant. I have not had overall good luck with them and in many cases they do reduce water flow. I would definitely put in a standard tee with a ball valve.
#3
12-27-17, 06:46 PM
Member
Saddle valves do not meet code in most areas any more and are far more likely to plug up and leak.
Try something before replacing,
Screw the valve all the way in, yes it will be hard to turn at the end, Then back it all the way out.
It's possible someone did not fully pierce the hole in the pipe.
Try something before replacing,
Screw the valve all the way in, yes it will be hard to turn at the end, Then back it all the way out.
It's possible someone did not fully pierce the hole in the pipe.
#4
12-27-17, 07:21 PM
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Excellent, I did what you recommended Joe and it worked. I'll definitely get to replacing it with a standard T, just no longer an emergency. Thanks again!
#5
12-28-17, 07:00 AM
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Just a note. Using a saddle valve might void the warranty on the refrigerator. The incoming solenoid valve needs certain pressure to operate properly. The warranty usually states a "full port" valve must be used.
If you need to use a saddle valve don't use a self-piercing, use the type where you need to drill a hole in the pipe.
Ideally you would install a 1/4 turn ball valve or an ice maker box like this link:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBit...5032/205545050
If you need to use a saddle valve don't use a self-piercing, use the type where you need to drill a hole in the pipe.
Ideally you would install a 1/4 turn ball valve or an ice maker box like this link:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBit...5032/205545050
#6
12-28-17, 02:52 PM
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