Shut off valve problem
#1
12-31-17, 11:58 AM
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Shut off valve problem
Hi All,
I installed a new faucet in kitchen sink. Install went well but I reversed the hot and cold. When i went to shut off the valves at the sink again, i noticed that the hot valve did not shut the water off like it had a moment ago, the cold shut off completely.. When i opened up the hot again, only half the water is flowing that should flow.
The valve is a brass craft 1/2 in. inlet x 3/8 in. O.D. Comp x 3/8 in. O.D. Comp Dual Outlet Dual Shut-Off, with Pex feeding straight into it. There isn't much Pex material (maybe 1/2") protruding from back of kitchen cabinet.
Any advice/suggestions would be much appreciated! My wife is going to kill me not only for the reversed hot/cold, but also the low flow of the hot water.
Thanks!!!
I installed a new faucet in kitchen sink. Install went well but I reversed the hot and cold. When i went to shut off the valves at the sink again, i noticed that the hot valve did not shut the water off like it had a moment ago, the cold shut off completely.. When i opened up the hot again, only half the water is flowing that should flow.
The valve is a brass craft 1/2 in. inlet x 3/8 in. O.D. Comp x 3/8 in. O.D. Comp Dual Outlet Dual Shut-Off, with Pex feeding straight into it. There isn't much Pex material (maybe 1/2") protruding from back of kitchen cabinet.
Any advice/suggestions would be much appreciated! My wife is going to kill me not only for the reversed hot/cold, but also the low flow of the hot water.
Thanks!!!
#2
12-31-17, 12:02 PM
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It should't be a big problem to put the hot and cold they it should be. Is this a single or two handle faucet? Seems like one is flowing into the other. Disassemble and redo in the proper order.
#3
12-31-17, 12:10 PM
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#4
12-31-17, 12:49 PM
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Yes, that is similar to what is there, although they are gate valves not ball, and they do nothing essentially at the moment. The dual valves feed the dishwasher and faucet with hot water. So switching the hot and cold is not the issue. I can turn off the water at the street to do that.
My issue is that turning the gate down does nothing, it seems like the valve has gotten stuck in half-way mode and turning the handle does nothing to shut off the water. I don't want to call a plumber if a quick repair of the valve is possible, but it is a lot of work for me to shut off the water and I feel like i wouldn't have enough PEX to cut out the bad valve without splicing in a new piece of pex?
My issue is that turning the gate down does nothing, it seems like the valve has gotten stuck in half-way mode and turning the handle does nothing to shut off the water. I don't want to call a plumber if a quick repair of the valve is possible, but it is a lot of work for me to shut off the water and I feel like i wouldn't have enough PEX to cut out the bad valve without splicing in a new piece of pex?
#5
12-31-17, 12:52 PM
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Also, i'm not familiar with how they tie into the Pex.. Is this something i could "uncompress" to remove off the 1/2" Pex and just replace the valve with a new one? The valve is 10 years old.
#6
12-31-17, 02:22 PM
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It is common for the hot water angle stop to fail. The old rubber inside will break up and block the supply lines because the valve is never used.
I usually don't recommend this, but you can purchase a similar dual valve (brasscraft) and replace the valve only, using the existing nut and compression ring.
Use two wrenches to remove the existing valve. Clean the old nut and ferrule the best you can with CLR or lime away, use a rag to wipe clean.
Thread the new valve on as a test to see if the threads are the same. If the new valve threads on easily remove it and coat the male threads with Teflon Paste and thread it on again.
Do not try to torque down the new valve, just seat it firmly using two small wrenches, check for leaks.
I usually don't recommend this, but you can purchase a similar dual valve (brasscraft) and replace the valve only, using the existing nut and compression ring.
Use two wrenches to remove the existing valve. Clean the old nut and ferrule the best you can with CLR or lime away, use a rag to wipe clean.
Thread the new valve on as a test to see if the threads are the same. If the new valve threads on easily remove it and coat the male threads with Teflon Paste and thread it on again.
Do not try to torque down the new valve, just seat it firmly using two small wrenches, check for leaks.
#7
12-31-17, 06:47 PM
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OK thanks, I'll give it a try and see how it goes. It better not have thrown rubber bits into my new $200 delta faucet!!
If it doesn't work, my plan would be to cut the line, put a shark-bite connector and, have a ~3inch new line that connects to the new double valve. I actually own the crimping tool already for the 1/2" PEX.
Or would it be more professional to do the latter in the first place? I'm worried that you said normally don't recommend.
If it doesn't work, my plan would be to cut the line, put a shark-bite connector and, have a ~3inch new line that connects to the new double valve. I actually own the crimping tool already for the 1/2" PEX.
Or would it be more professional to do the latter in the first place? I'm worried that you said normally don't recommend.
#8
12-31-17, 07:17 PM
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If I was working with a short water line I would definitely try just replacing the valve. The only downfall is that the threaded compression nuts don't all use the same threads. You wouldn't know if a new valve matched until you tried it.
#9
12-31-17, 09:13 PM
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I'm worried that you said normally don't recommend.
If by chance it fails, then you go to other steps. You have a very good chance of the new valve being leak free. You will know within minutes.
As far as the Delta faucet I have always had good luck with them fully supporting any situation, including full replacement but I can't speak for them.
