Suggestions for my re-plumbing plan of attach...

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Old 02-08-18, 07:24 AM
J
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Suggestions for my re-plumbing plan of attach...

Uponor / AquaPEX type A for my install. Just a brief history as to why I am switching over... I purchased the house in 2015 but the house was originally built in 1980. I was in the house for less than 6 months and had the main water line burst where it enters the crawl space. I have PVC from my well to the house and then they had about one foot of copper pipe thru the foundation wall and then back to PVC to my expansion tank. After the expansion tank it goes to 1/2" copper to the hot water heater and to all other fixtures in the house. The one foot piece of copper is where the pipe burst. Since then I have had five pin hole leaks in the horizontal straight runs under the house. The last leak I had was in the kitchen ceiling (supply line for upstairs bathrooms) at a 90 elbow. A pin hole formed in the solder for the joint. I currently have two full bathrooms upstairs and one half bathroom downstairs. All three are ran from a single 1/2" copper supply line. I am now wanting to run a separate 3/4" PEX supply line to each bathroom and then branch out to the fixtures with a manifold with 1/2" PEX. I am currently planning to do this for both hot and cold unless someone can direct me otherwise. Each 3/4" trunk line will have it's own ball valve under the house so I can isolate each room if the need ever arises. I have attached a couple of plans I made to help show my current plan of attack. Please let me know if you see anything that needs to be changed or anything you would do differently. I also have a few questions that I have been struggling with and would like to have other opinions. I have listed those questions below also.

1 - 1/2" or 3/4" PEX supply lines be used for hot water supply?
2 - 1/2" or 3/4" PEX supply for washing machine?
3 - 1/2" or 3/4" PEX supply for outside hose bibs?
4 - 1/2" or 3/4" PEX supply for kitchen sink?
5 - Can the dishwasher have it own shutoff valve under the cabinet like the sink or should it be T'ed off from the sink supply line?
6 - Is the dishwasher typically attached to the hot or cold side? I have read contradicting opinions on this one.
7 - In the near future I plan to connect to public water. Should I use 1" or 1 1/4" supply line from the meter to my house? House is about 300 feet from the meter and about 50 feet higher in elevation. I may need a booster pump?
8 - A few years from now we are planning to build an addition and will add another full bath in the bonus room. This will be to the left of the master bathroom. So the house will be 3.5 baths. Not sure that this affects anything at this time but maybe it would affect the main supply for public water? Figured it was worth mentioning.
9 - Would I need a larger than 3/4" main supply line in my crawl space once the full bath is added?
10 - I plan to run the supply lines to the upstairs bathrooms with 3/4" and run that all the way to the tub/shower. Then I will use a manifold to branch out to the sinks and toilets. I will have access to these manifold and I thought it would be nice to have the only joints in a place that I can access. Is this acceptable?

Once I figure out how to down the size of my PDF's I will post them up. Cannot get them below the minimum file size....
 
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Old 02-08-18, 07:47 AM
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5 - Can the dishwasher have it own shutoff valve under the cabinet like the sink or should it be T'ed off from the sink supply line?
You can hook up the dishwasher several ways and each is fine.... a separate valve, a dual outlet valve/dual valve, or an angle stop adapter that converts a single outlet valve to dual.
Yes the dishwasher requires hot water only, in fact it's a good idea to run the hot water in the sink just before starting the dishwasher.
 
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Old 02-08-18, 07:53 AM
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Thanks for the info. I am about positive my current dishwasher is connected to the cold side. It was already installed when I purchased the home. Never thought about running the hot water in the sink first. That makes since! I will check into this when I get home to see if I am mistaken, but know I will connect it properly once I get the plumbing updated.
 
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Old 02-09-18, 10:58 AM
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If it were me, I'd use 1/2" PEX to each bath/kitchen. I think 3/4" is overkill unless you have a super-duper multi-head shower. With 3/4", it will also take longer for hot water to get to the fixture. Same with dishwasher, washer, etc. All just need 1/2"

I also wouldn't bother with a manifold in each bathroom. If you want to use one in the basement, that's fine, but I find angle stops at each fixture easier to plumb.

I'm also not scared of PEX connections in the walls. I think the whole manifold setup is over-hyped for most houses.

For the kitchen, I always run 1/2" pex up, and put 2 valves on each hot & cold. For the sink, and an extra cold for an icemaker - and a hot for the dishwasher. I've never heard of a dishwasher a cold supply.


Unfortunately, I can't comment on the sizing for your run to the meter... others I'm sure will be able to help. The booster pump will be dependent on the pressure at the street and ultimately the pressure once it gets to the house. The water company can probably give you details even before anything is hooked up.
 
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Old 02-12-18, 08:07 AM
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Thanks Zorfdt. The manifolds I am talking about upstairs would be to have one connections point instead of a bunch of T's at each fixture. I would not have shutoffs at those manifolds. I do plan to have the angle stops at each fixture.
 
 

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