Hot and cold pipes go directly into faucets?


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Old 04-01-18, 08:02 AM
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Hot and cold pipes go directly into faucets?

I've got a small bathroom sink and then a laundry sink that are adjacent to each other on opposite sides of a wall that share the same set of pipes and branch out into each sink. There are shut off valves above in the unfinished basement that shut both pipes off. Each pipe goes DIRECTLY into the faucets (from below of course) without having a flexible water hose, etc. Sorry, I don't know all the plumbing terms.

What is this type of setup called? Why did they have the hot and cold copper pipes going directly into the bottom of the faucets? Was there a reason for this?

I've got plumber coming this week and was wondering what I need to have installed in order for me to attach "flexible hoses" and put on my own new faucets. Do I just need them to cut the pipes below and install some type of fitting that the hoses attach to? Should they have shut offs although there's already one above that controls both sinks?

How much should it cost (ballpark) to do a couple of these fittings?
 
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Old 04-01-18, 08:33 AM
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Pictures would help but it sounds like you need 4 stop cocks and 4 supply hoses installed.
 
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Old 04-01-18, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by pugsl View Post
Pictures would help but it sounds like you need 4 stop cocks and 4 supply hoses installed.
Not home right now but I can explain. The pipes (copper 3/4 I think) instead of being terminated with valves just continue right on up into the bottom of the faucets.
 
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Old 04-01-18, 04:10 PM
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When the plumber comes in to fix pipes he most likely will want to replace those lines also. Just tell him you need stop cocks installed with flex lines.
 
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Old 04-02-18, 10:26 AM
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In older houses, the pipes were often connected directly to the faucets. Braided supply lines are a pretty new product (past 15-20 years maybe?)

There's no issue with the way they are connected - other than being difficult to change out the faucet.

It's an easy project for a plumber to add stop valves onto the pipes with a standard 3/8" threaded connector to go to new faucets. Or with SharkBite fittings, you could do it yourself by cutting the existing copper pipe and using a push fitting like this:

 
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Old 04-05-18, 02:27 PM
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Ok guys, the plumber came and installed stop valves on ONE side of the wall and said that I could use a T type fitting and then run flexible lines to each of the faucets on each side of the wall.

He installed the stop valves that have an oval shaped thing to turn and it has a thread on the end. He told me to go get a "t something" that allows me to branch out the flexible hoses to each side of the wall and to each faucet. Can someone tell me what I need to buy? The guy at HomeD couldn't think of what I needed and I don't know the name of it.

Thanks

Is this what I need?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-8-in-x...6X-P/202495893
 
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Old 04-05-18, 02:53 PM
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Soldering pipe directly into faucets is not an uncommon thing, albeit, stupid. It saves time and money on the contractors part.
Not so you say? How can $20 affect total cost? Well if it's a one time house build, it won't. But, if it's a whole neighborhood tract being built with say from 50 to 300 homes $20 x's 300= $6000 or even $20 x 50 = $1000 is quite a savings. Now also deduct the cost of isolation valves. And how about bedrooms that no longer have a switched ceiling lights? Same thing. Switch the first outlet and let the home owner worry about the inconvenience. If local codes allow a builder not to include certain things you can be sure they won't. It's just not the material cost but the extra labor involved also. If a plumber does not have to handle a valve, and flex connector but only solder to the faucet (remember, he already has the solder torch and solder operating) that's a bug time saver.
Now that PEX and Sharkbite are becoming more common the practice may be changing. But the common factors are still there.
 
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Old 04-05-18, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Norm201 View Post
Soldering pipe directly into faucets is not an uncommon thing, albeit, stupid. It saves time and money on the contractors part.
Not so you say? How can $20 affect total cost? Well if it's a one time house build, it won't. But, if it's a whole neighborhood tract being built with say from 50 to 300 homes $20 x's 300= $6000 or even $20 x 50 = $1000 is quite a savings. Now also deduct the cost of isolation valves. And how about bedrooms that no longer have a switched ceiling lights? Same thing. Switch the first outlet and let the home owner worry about the inconvenience. If local codes allow a builder not to include certain things you can be sure they won't. It's just not the material cost but the extra labor involved also. If a plumber does not have to handle a valve, and flex connector but only solder to the faucet (remember, he already has the solder torch and solder operating) that's a bug time saver.
Now that PEX and Sharkbite are becoming more common the practice may be changing. But the common factors are still there.
Thanks. Just want to make sure this is what I need?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-8-in-x...6X-P/202495893
 
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Old 04-05-18, 06:05 PM
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Brian, that's exactly what you need to connect two faucets to one shutoff.

Looks like you have it under control!
 
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Old 04-05-18, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Zorfdt View Post
Brian, that's exactly what you need to connect two faucets to one shutoff.

Looks like you have it under control!
Thanks, just went and got two. They look like they're going to work!

By the way wondering if it's "code" to branch off like this and go through a wall to another vanity with just the water supply lines? The kid (plumber) who came over today seemed very knowledgeable, but just wondering.

What is the longest supply lines I can get? Not sure if the 20 inch will reach the other faucets at the laundry sink. Do they sell longer ones?
 
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Old 04-06-18, 03:28 AM
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Personally I would prefer to have my isolation valves or shutoff valves directly under the sink they serve and one for each and every sink.
 
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Old 04-06-18, 10:21 AM
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I don't know if it's particularly forbidden by code to go through a wall with the flexible lines, but it's certainly not common. The "correct" way would be to use copper or PEX between the walls with a shutoff under each fixture. But since you have it set up this way already, there's no huge issue with connecting them.

You should be able to get a 3/8" male-male coupler to connect two flex hoses together.
 
 

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