Hello, I am redoing my kitchen. The washing machine drain used to be a stand pipe 1" 1/2 width about 5ft 1/2 high going directly to the cast iron 2" drain of the house, no trap. I will describe what i have now instead which is also on the picture, much easier to understand. I had to change the drain location to be 1 foot away. I removed the cast iron elbow and switched to PVC 2". Still in the ground, PVC 2" goes to 1" 1/2, I added a trap and relocated the stand pipe 2ft further ad i had to short it, it is now about 4ft. To compensate the shorter stand pipe, I put 3" PVC for the stand pipe. The washing machine is now overflowing on cycles that used to be fine before. Before the changes sometimes we would have a little overflow in the kitchen, very minimal. What do you guys suggest to fix this overflow situation? Thanks all [ATTACH]92092[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]92100[/ATTACH]

I've got a small bathroom sink and then a laundry sink that are adjacent to each other on opposite sides of a wall that share the same set of pipes and branch out into each sink. There are shut off valves above in the unfinished basement that shut both pipes off. Each pipe goes DIRECTLY into the faucets (from below of course) without having a flexible water hose, etc. Sorry, I don't know all the plumbing terms. What is this type of setup called? Why did they have the hot and cold copper pipes going directly into the bottom of the faucets? Was there a reason for this? I've got plumber coming this week and was wondering what I need to have installed in order for me to attach "flexible hoses" and put on my own new faucets. Do I just need them to cut the pipes below and install some type of fitting that the hoses attach to? Should they have shut offs although there's already one above that controls both sinks? How much should it cost (ballpark) to do a couple of these fittings?