hey guys, had to re-tile a shower surround because the tub spout began pushing water back behind the tub and down into the kitchen area. of course, the adjuster and I didn't figure this out until tile had been knocked out. we originally thought the leak was between the shower valve and the shower head but nope. anyway, it's an old moen valve. the one you have to pull to turn on and where the screws for the shower trim kit is at 5 and 7 o'clock. i measure the previous tile and cement board and it was basically the same thickness as what i was putting in. well, as it turns out the moen valve doesn't stick far out enough. so when i attached the shower knob i can pull it to turn the shower on and can turn for hot or cold water BUT in order to turn it off, i have to push the screw attached to the shower valve. anybody have any suggestions beside tearing up the tile and installing a new valve? in hindsight, i should have just installed a new valve. thanks!

I have searched for hours and can't quite find the information I need for my specific issue. We turned off main water supply to the house while swapping out ours for a newer model. The new refrigerator came from my mother's much older house that didn't have a dedicated water supply cut-off at the source. After thinking that cutting off water source for the kitchen was the answer, a huge mess ensued after unhooking the tubes for the ice maker//water dispenser leading to us needing to turn off main water source. Fast forward to moving that unit to my newer house built in 2010. Wanting to avoid the same issue, we, of course, proceeded to turn off main water source to the house before swapping the units. Having zero experience here, we all laughed as we were hooking up the new unit and noticed that there was indeed a area specific shut-off. Oh well. We are learning. Well...since 8pm last night, I have been researching why the water won't come back on. We have tried turning ball valve on and off again slowly, bleeding lines of water and air etc etc. But over 12 hours later we have very little water dripping from sinks. Showers don't have water at all, and toilets will flush but fill at a snail's pace and once a toilet is flushed, water stops running all together for awhile which makes sense if assuming all available water at the time is flowing to fill toilet. Some faucets were left open overnight. I did read about tightening certain screws, cooper screw/nut??, doing something with the valve stem, seeing if ball is actually reopening properly etc...but I don't want to make anymore mistakes. The lever connected to valve stem seems to be turning the stem properly. Pipe itself is wrapped with insulation and secured with duct tape at both ends and also in the middle ... I removed middle piece of insulation before picture.