leaky toilet with no shut-off valve

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  #1  
Old 05-19-01, 09:14 PM
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My toilet is dripping water where the supply tube enters the tank. I'm not sure if I need to replace the supply tube or the valve inside the toilet. And to make matters more complicated, there is no shut-off valve! Where do I go from here?
 
  #2  
Old 05-19-01, 11:18 PM
L
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Location: Arlington, WA
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Shut the water off to the house and install a shut-off valve where the pipe comes out of the wall under the toilet. Now you can turn the water on to the rest of the house. Install a new supply line AND a Fluidmaster fill valve assembly. Parts (the shut-off valve, supply line and the Fluidmaster) should be less than $20.
 
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Old 05-20-01, 03:46 PM
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Thanks for your response! I was spurned to action early this morning as the leak had moved beyond a drip into a flood on my bathroom floor. Several towels later, I was able to install a shut-off valve, new toilet valve, and new supply line. Once I turned the water back on, however, there is a drip in the supply line beneath the plastic coupling nut that connects to the valve shank. Once the toilet refills, a constant stream of water comes from this same place.

What could be causing this leak? I bought the vinyl-type supply line with the understanding that I wouldn't need any washers, etc. between it and the valve shank. Is this incorrect? Or could the shank be damaged somehow and causing the leak? Could the positioning of the supply line cause the leak? I bought a 12" line which fits with a tight curve--should I buy a longer length? I already returned one supply line thinking it was defective, but now I think it's me! Any suggestions?
 
  #4  
Old 05-20-01, 04:48 PM
L
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Going to a longer (16") or shorter (9") supply line might cure the leak. Since these supply lines have a compression washer in them that makes the seal to the bottom of the fill valve, there should be no need to use teflon tape on the connection. Make sure you are getting several turns on each end of the line with just your fingers to snug the connection. Use a wrench only for the last half turn or so to tighten the connection. Pretty easy to cross-thread the brass to plastic connection without knowing it if you use a wrench to do all of the installing.
 
  #5  
Old 05-20-01, 05:04 PM
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Hi, You say you have a tight turn in the flex line. You may be able to turn the angle stop that you installed to make the turn less severe. You are on the second flex line. Remove the end from the toilet there should be a rubber cone washer inside the flex line. put your finger in the shaft of the fluid master you just removed the flex line from there should not be any type of washer inside it.If everthing is correct put the unit back together and turn on the water if it still leaks check the nut that holds the Fluidmaster to the toilet tank make sure it's tight and the gasket is seated. Good Luck Woodbutcher
 
 

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