Welcome to the forums.

That pipe looks well rusted in that valve. I would cut it off at the valve.
Using two pipe wrenches.... hold the pipe solidly and remove the old valve.

 

Yeah, channel locks is likely not the right tool. You need a great big pipe wrench.

 

 

You'd have a better chance of getting the valve off the supply line but they may require heating the valve to break it loose.

 

 

That should be 1/2" galvanized pipe.

Me........ I'd try to get it off first. I'd rather not have to mess with threading.

 

 

If I was doing it I'd replace the valve too. Even if it still works it is probably on its last leg. Use a modern quarter turn valve and braided stainless steel supply line.

 

Yes, an angle stop. Home stores sell several different varieties. You will want one to fit the 1/2" pipe threads X 3/8" Compression. They come in straight and angled, you want to angled stop.

 

Would a Sharkbite valve work? Or is the supply line too thick?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBit...00LF/202270612

 

 

I'm not sure Sharkbite will work with that pipe (the wall thickness may be too large), but it's worth looking into.

 

The stub-out is galvanized pipe (I'm 95% certain). If so, then a Sharkbite won't work on it, and I'm sure you really don't want to cut and re-thread it.

It's probably also screwed into a fitting an inch or two into the wall, so the nipple could probably be changed out too if desired.

But the bad news is that most galvanized piping systems are nearing the end of their lifespan. It's possible of course it's only that nipple, but between the nipple and the shutoff, I'm thinking it's an older house, and you should evaluate the supply piping throughout the house.

It's possible it's in good condition and is still serviceable, but in many cases, galvanized supply pipes are on the verge of rusting, leaks, etc... and if you're doing a reno, now might be a good time to update the plumbing too.

 

I’m pretty sure that unfortunately SharkBites don’t work with galvanized pipe or PVC. They do work though with copper, CPVC, and PEX.

I would spray some of that PB Blaster on the stuff you want to take apart. I’ve had connections so rusted they wouldn’t budge the slightest and I was all ready to give up. Someone told me about PB Blaster and it really worked. On really really bad stuff you might have to let in soak for a little while and try again – once or twice, but it really works. On some things it just takes seconds and you can loosen the connection right away.

But as was pointed out you need pipe wrenches to hold one thing and turn the other. (I don’t know what you meant by “pull” with the channel locks, it looks like those connections are threaded)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-...6-PB/205178591

 

 

That galvanized pipe might be full of iron [rust] and might the same in the rest of the house. Go to any faucet in the house, open the valve fully and watch the flow, if the flow remains full it is still pretty good, if it starts flowing fast, then slows down, the pipe is closing up. Soon rather than later you will have to replace the old gal pipe with copper or pex or pvc. Good luck.
Sid

 

 

When you remove the valve..... you'll get a better idea on the shape of the inside of the pipe. Don't try to screw that nipple out of the wall unless you are prepared to open the wall up. Although something like PB blaster will help..... I've found that heat (torch) is needed to heat the valve to melt the compound and rust.

LINK: Angle stop shutoff valve

 

 

Not a pipe wrench. You will need two at least 12" size. A piece of pipe to use as a cheater may also be needed.

 

 

When you took the valve off.... what was the condition of the inside of the pipe ?
How-to-insert-pictures

 

 

Perfect!!! (as the kids say today – lol). Sounds good that the inside of the pipe doesn’t look bad at all. Maybe you’re lucky and all the piping is in pretty good shape.

Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving!