Hi,

I am adding a laundry area and want to check if i got this all right. Laundry room will have stack-able washer dryer full sized in the corner of the room with 2 inch standpipe in the corner (left had side) that goes straight down into a double sanitary 2" tee. The tee picks up the slop sink to the right (6 feet away) run with 1 1/2 pipe and a bushing to reduce the tee inlet. I am thinking of connecting the upstairs kitchen sink via the second inlet ( use another bushing to reduce the inlet) which will come down vertically 7 foot +/- then 90 into the tee. I will have a dishwasher that goes in to the kitchen sink drain as well.

So, if i am right i can have these all into a 2" line that drains into a 3" 90 and then into an old 4" toilet discharge that is in the floor already.

Questions are:
1. is a 2 inch line able to take the washer, slop sink, kitchen sink and dish washer or am I exceed that the 2" can drain?
2. If I am in safe drainage limits could i pick up the downstairs bathroom sink as well (this would let me re-route some pipes that are in the way of a recessed medicine cabinet.
3. do i need to vent the 4" line just because the other lines all tie into it? I think no because every fixture is already vented so seem redundant but not sure if inspectors would want another vent.
4. is vent line requirement 50% of the size of the intake line being vented? so 4 inch line need 2" vent?
5. not sure where i can put a P-trap for the washer stand pipe is there a type of trap to use on a vertical line? or do i just put it on the 2" line after the double Tee that picks up the slop and kitchen sink (this makes most sense to me)

I hope the above all makes sense. basically the corner where the washer is is where everything comes together then goes out via the 2" line and into the 4" that has a street elbow out and a reducing bushing to take the 2" line.

Thanks in advance to anyone that read all the above i knows its a bunch!

 

Be sure you plan for about 6 inches behind washer dryer for the vent You can squeeze it into a 4 inch space but you be sorry.

 

You need to vent all fixtures to code. what you describe seems far from it..

You cant wet vent.

 

Needs to look like this to code.. notice double Y needs to be a double fixture fitting and not a san tee..

That double Y goes to two sinks.

And nothing can drain into the vent from above going into that double Y. It must stay dry.

Also note the washer vent arm..

 

maybe i described it wrong but i dont think i am wet venting any of the fixtures.

-Kitchen sink vents above the inlet and ties to the roof vent
-bathroom sink same will tie into the main vent (same if i hook up to existing drain or add to the new 2" line.
-slop sink is a bit of an issue as there is no way to run a vent to the main vent line. I am going to use a pro-vent? or get one that goes through the wall to the outside (hopefully one of those are allowed)
-washing machine goes into an open 2" line so not sure why i need a vent to that

The question about adding a vent to the 3" that goes into the floor drain was just to see if that something the inspector would want or if it is a god thing to have. That vet would also tie into the main vent line.

My apologies if i mis-understand what wet venting is

 

nice pic!

ok so i have to re figure this then.i can put the kitchen and bath sink back they way the were.

ill have to move the washer stand pipe to the right put a p trap on it and run a vent line somehow

guess maybe ill have to run a proper vent for the slop and box it in tight to the ceiling somehow.

ughh i knew i was starring at it for a reason.

ill try to draw it up or take a picture - maybe just hire a pro but at $190 an hour its just too expensive

 

Draw a pic of what you intend.. I can guide you better.

 

Why is it that couldn't be a double san tee? I thought that was what they were for.

 

ok here is the picture (if i attached it right that is) - i know i am an amazing artist!

so i decided to move the washer stand pipe to facilitate the p-trap and also changed how i tie in the kitchen sink from above. Hopefully I have a correct venting system now.

only issue is venting the slop sink which is going to have to be a pro-vent. which i am not sure is code in CT. Or i need to find a vent that can go through the wall direct to the outside.

Ignore the word "outside"

 

changes the trap weir. will suck out trap with san tee

 

don't think ABS is allowed in CT. I also cannot find a sch 40 double Y in Home depo

i am not sure if ABS is the right term for that black piping ?

 

The double fixture cross is sometimes called a 'figure 5' and is available in no-hub (cast-iron).

A snake will pass thru either one (san cross or fig 5) but it's little less likely with the fig 5.

 

did i confuse things more with this picture? i know i have to mind the height of the vents and "weir" on the traps but assuming i get that right does what i want to do look good? If you think it does ill rough it in w/o gluing and see if i can send the inspector a picture before scheduling an actual inspection.

 

any thoughts or is the picture confusing? don't mean to be pushy but this weekend is when i need to make a decision or ill have to wait until 2019

 

Was just answering joes comment... Ummm Ill try to look more later... Been very busy lately and have no time to breath.....

 

maybe this is a little clearer. The fixture to the right is the slop sink and i will use a pro vent most likely unless i find a way to tie into the main vent line.

 

Which way does the water flow? I assume towards the floor drain... You just have issues if thats how its piped. I assume that 8ft and 6ft section are under slab, or basement?

 

I had no idea this was a problem. I remember back in the '70s that nearly every house with back-to-back bathrooms had a 3" sanitary cross with two 2" side inlets. It sure made for a slick looking neat installation and I think those fittings are still available. Are the double "Y" fittings available with the side inlets?

 

Uggh and i thought i had it right this time.

water flows to the floor drain, The pipes are inside a knee wall i built that is 36" high.

the slop sink to the right is the beginning of the run i'll put the center of the pipe at 16" off the floor. The pipe is 1 1/2 inches to the 90 that run on the back side of the existing bathroom wet wall. the pipe from there is 2" but can be any size i need.

There is a main vent line is the joists above the wet wall where i will tie in the washer and bathroom sink vents (there are also toilet and shower pan vents but those are just getting tie back to where they were).

the kitchen sink vent on the second floor to the main vent that exits through the roof.

 

i took some pictures as a very rough in. i know its not level exactly right and all but just wanted an overall sense if am on the right track.
from the slop sink i have a 1 1/12 El into a 1 1/2 pipe that run about 8 foot pitched at 1/4" per foot. This tie into a 2" 90 using a reducing bushing the a street 90 again (i needed to drop the height a bit in the corner to start the wet wall run.

After the turn to the wet wall i used a 2' x 1 1/2 y to pick up the sink from upstairs (this is ties into the vent stack already) right after that is a 2' x 1 1/2 T that will pick up the bath sink. The bath sick will vent straight up the wall once i put in the T for it so no vent in the pic right now.

The next fixture is the washer stand pipe (i have the wrong size T right now in the pic) it will be a 2" pipe into a 2" T, the a 2" trap. from here i ran the pipe into a 3" T with a 2" vent out the top that will tie into the main vent (its crooked but just for now its not glued yet) the bottom of the 3" T goees into a 60 degree street elbow into the old toilet connection.

Hope this is clear now. If not i am just going to straighten, level and glue it up and see what the inspector says.

Thanks!

 

Im sorry. I just cant look at the pics.. My eyes are burning!!!!

My best advice to give you is to call a plumber in for an estimate to fix that horrific mess..

Sry to be so blunt...

Its so wrong on a massive level I cannot comprehend...

 

Answer?
. .

 

Yeah... unfortunately a few comments that I see at first glance that are wrong:

* Each fixture needs its own trap. You can't use a single trap like that.
* All the horizontal fittings need to be wyes. Sanitary tees are only allowed when transitioning from horizontal to vertical.
* The turn around the corner needs to be done with long-sweep elbows.
* I'm not quite understanding the tees that are mid-run.

 

everything is above grade only when it gets to the 3" pipe does it go under the slab into the 4" main that was an old toilet connection (there were two toilets back to back 1 is goes as i demo'd and illegal apt this is where i am tying into)

 

hi and thank for the reply. in response to your points

Every fixture will have a trap, slop sink, kitchen and bath sink will all have one (not in pics as i haven't hooked up the sinks yet) the trap n the run is only for the washer stand pipe as that one will be concealed inside the wall that i will frame around the pipes to hide them (not sure if i need access for a clean out or not, or where i can even put one for that matter)

the 2 T's in the pic would eventually pick up the bath room sink (1st one closest to the turn in the corner) the next T will be the new vent for the bath sink I can eliminate these and hook up the bath sink back to the copper connection that is there you can see it int he pic but that line seems to drain a bit slow so i figured new is better)

Noted on the long sweep - i was not aware i needed to use that so thanks for letting me know i will change it

there is a Y picking up the kitchen sink from upstairs but it is hard to see.in the pic. It is right after the turn in the corner and it is a 2" x 1 1/2 Y.

it the pro vent ok like that or should i not even use it? to run a proper vent will be very difficult

thanks!

 

But the way you have it piped, the other sinks will have 2 traps, the one at the fixture (that will be installed later) plus that one inline.

You need to make the washer standpipe look like the pic in post #6. The standpipe goes directly down into the trap, then wyes into the horizontal drain.
The other drains need to wye into the horizontal drain, without the hard-piped trap.

This is how I think it should be piped. I'll have to defer to Mike/Lawrosa for a confirmation as DWV systems sometimes get a bit too complicated. But here's my take.

The fittings are all wyes, no sanitary tees in the mix since they are all horizontal takeoffs. By keeping the wyes horizontal, you can get away with the single AAV vent. If the wyes are vertical, they would go into a san tee, and then vent up from there.

 

. Not sure on bath. should have vent somewhere. .

 

i guess the issue is there is no place to put the washer trap the way i want to hook it up but i get what you are saying and maybe the only choice is to put it in the corner somehow on on the line coming from the slop sink

can i put the stand pipe so that it runs parallel with the slope sink line but above that line then put a 90 degree down turn into the line? i would have to put the stand pipe to the right side of the washer and figure how to run a vent for it but that is the only other option i see.

btw the bath sink is on the other side of the wall in the bath room not sure that changes anything about the 2 traps issue

 

ok i see that i can locate the trap above which i think i can get to work, Venting is going to be tough there are a lot of pipes electrical that i think will all get in the way but ill have to just temp it in and see what can be moved.

dam i though this was easier then moving washer to 2nd floor -eessh

 

Thanks Mike for the re-draw, much appreciated!

 

Hi,

My apologies for going dark for a bit work got busy then i got the flu for Christmas (not too bad as i got the shot this year!).

Anyway i finally got to a point where i could spend a few hours and am giving this one last try before i just give in and pray i can find a pro to take this job. I attached a few new pics. I think i am using the Tees and Y and elbows correctly now but please point out any issues.

one thing to note is that i am leaving the bath sink where it was so the copper pipes will just be reconnected. was too complicated trying to tie that into this whole mess.

On the pic that goes into the main waste line (drain) do i need a vent there? I can leave it if it make the flow better but rather put a clean out just in case. i can tie in the vents for the slop sink and washer stand pipe to the main vent in a different location.

Also does the inlet of a Y need to be at a certain angle to the line it connects to? i am concerned as one of inlets on the Y that picks up the kitchen sink from the top floor is a bit on the flat and i am not sure i can do that. I'd say its not less than 60 degree angle.

Thanks for all the help and responses!

Happy New Year!!

 

Looks MUCH better! I don't see anything that jumps out at me.

If the last pic has a cemented trap, you probably need a cleanout above or below it so it can be snaked if needed. If it's a slip-fitting, you don't need one.

 

Thanks!!

trap in last pic is a slip style so i did not need to put a clean out.

No issue with they Y being a bit on the flat? I needed to roll it to the left a little bit to get around the stud there.

 

No problem with rolling the wye on an angle, that's the benefit of using a wye!