Basement laundy sink drain questions

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Old 01-13-19, 09:29 PM
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Basement laundy sink drain questions

I'm in the middle of re-doing our basement washing machine drain setup. Previous setup had the washer draining into a double utility sink, which itself drained into a sump-pump-in-a-basin setup that sat on top of the basement floor. The pump shot the water out the top of the basin into a section of flexible (vinyl?) hose that was connected to copper pipe that ran up the side of the basement wall and tied into the main cast iron drain pipe.

The reason for the re-do is because last night the sump pump stopped working in the middle of a washing machine cycle and we ended up with a LOT of water spread across a good portion of our basement floor. This is the second time this has happened in the past 5 years. The setup was old (with the exception of the replacement sump pump I put in 5 years ago after this issue happened the first time) and ugly/dirty and took up a lot more space than was necessary, so I decided to tear it all out and start over with fresh parts.

The new setup has the washing machine emptying into a single utility sink, which connects to a new laundry pump, which will need to connect to the main drain line farther up the basement wall.

Getting all the old parts out ut wasn't too difficult. Figuring out my options for the new setup has me stymied on a couple of fronts.

1) How to tie the new PVC into the existing cast iron drain. The end of the cast iron pipe facing the basement has a Y on it, appears to be 2" on one branch and 1.5" on the other. The 2" has a gold/tan color plug threaded into it, and the 1.5" has a grayish adapter threaded in, and then a copper adapter threaded into that adapter. I have used WD-40 and PB Blaster on all 3 plugs/adapters, with pipe wrench/crescent wrench/locking pliers/channel-locks/hammer/heat gun/etc. and the only movement on any of them is a fraction of an inch on the 2" plug. The copper adapter is 1" on the end opposite the threaded end. The end of the adapter is a bit bulkier than normal 1" pipe, which provided an easy ridge on which to align my hacksaw when I cut off the pipe. Unfortunately, this means that the connector recommended to me by the plumbing guy at Menards this evening (sharkbite connector, I think he called it) will not fit on the copper adapter because of its slightly larger bulk than normal 1" copper pipe. I'd really prefer to drain into the 2" opening since my PVC line coming up to the drain will be 1.5", but I don't know what else to do to get the 2" plug out. After Googling it a bit and looking at pictures I'm fairly certain that the two adapters in the 1.5" branch were leaded in place, which would explain why beating on them doesn't work.

2) How to vent the new laundry pump. When I was thinking about re-doing the setup like this a few years back I called up "The Money Pit" home improvement radio show and explained what I wanted to do but wasn't sure how to vent the pump and they told me to use an AAV. I purchased an AAV but then realized I wasn't sure how high it needs to extend above the pump, so I got online and started searching and now I'm not at all certain if an AAV is appropriate. I have no idea how to tie into the main vent line though. As best as I can tell the main vent line is just a higher extension of the large vertical drain line that connects to the horizontal drain line with which I need to make a connection from the laundry pump. I'd have to go through floors and stuff in order to somehow tie into it above all of the upper floor drain lines. If an AAV is fine for this use, how high does it need to be above the pump?

The old sump-pump-in-a-basin's "vent" consisted of an opening in the top of the basin and that's all, so an AAV will definitely be a step in the right direction but I'm not sure if it's adequate. I think it wouldn't be adequate were it connected to the washing machine drain, but since the washing machine empties into the laundry sink, I think it's OK to have the AAV on the laundry sink pump.

In the overall view picture, the new laundry pump is the black box sitting on the floor on the far side of the new sink. The discharge pipe needs to extend up the half-wall into the crawl space that is dark in the picture. The drain line is within 1 foot of the crawl space opening.
 
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Last edited by jessman1128; 01-13-19 at 09:37 PM. Reason: Adding pictures
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Old 01-14-19, 08:23 AM
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I finally got the 2" plug removed by drilling and cutting into it. I took a section out of the middle, cut to the perimeter in a few places, then a few cold chisel taps had it collapse in on itself enough that I could spin out what was left of the plug. Now to figure out how to cap off the 1" copper adapter that has too thick walls to use a push on cap.
 
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Old 01-14-19, 08:59 AM
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I'm too lazy to read the whole thing. Do you have a question?
 
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Old 01-15-19, 08:36 AM
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I extended the 1" copper adapter with a short piece of 3/4" PVC and some special pipe repair putty/tape combo, and then capped of the 3/4" PVC with a PVC cap.

My first attempt at connecting the new drain line to the 2" cast iron fitting leaked. I used a 2"-to-1.5" PVC adapter to thread into the cast iron fitting, with pipe sealant on the PVC threads. There's only about 3 threads left on the cast iron fitting; can't tell for sure if it's always been that way or if there were more threads farther in that have corroded over the years. I'm guessing the latter. Anyway, I couldn't screw the PVC adapter in much farther and it still leaked, so I removed it and got a galvanized adapter that I could put more force into screwing it in farther. Galvanized adapter with pipe sealant is threaded into the cast iron fitting, then PVC adapter with pipe sealant into the galvanized adapter. The galvanized-to-cast-iron fitting also leaks a bit but it's not too bad and so I'm content to leave it alone for a couple days at least. I noticed yesterday while hooking up the new line that downstream from the cast iron fitting there's a short section of galvanized pipe in between two cast iron fittings. Ultimately I think I may have to cut off the one cast iron fitting at the galvanized section and then use one of those rubber adapters to connect PVC to galvanized. I didn't think to take pictures of the new setup yet.
 
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Old 01-15-19, 01:40 PM
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I didn't thoroughly read your entire post either, but would a 2" to 1-1/2" flexible PVC coupling work for you?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-2...-215/100013986

And I would guess the AAV would need to be at least above the highest level of the pump. I would personally put it as high as you can under the sink. Whether or not an AAV is the best solution is beyond me.
 
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Old 01-21-19, 11:52 AM
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I didn't thoroughly read your entire post either, but would a 2" to 1-1/2" flexible PVC coupling work for you?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-2...-215/100013986

And I would guess the AAV would need to be at least above the highest level of the pump. I would personally put it as high as you can under the sink. Whether or not an AAV is the best solution is beyond me.
I ended up using a 2" to 1.5" galvanized adapter into the cast iron, then a 1.5" PVC into the galvanized adapter. For the AAV, I put it about 12-18" up from the top of the pump - it's a little higher than the bottom of the sink. Seems to be working ok so far.
 
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