Got a question about a valve leak
#1
04-24-19, 03:56 PM
Got a question about a valve leak
I have a slight leak at a valve, and I want to make sure I get the correct replacement. Anything I need to know about this particular valve? I am sure I can install a new one, also wondering if they sell a sharkbite version, if that's a good way to fix it. It's on the feed line giong to my boiler. Thanks.
Last edited by PJmax; 04-24-19 at 04:08 PM. Reason: resized pictures
#2
04-24-19, 04:19 PM
Member
Looks like a decent quality (italy, not china) 1/2" 1/4 turn ball valve.
If it's leaking per the second picture, at the screw on part of the main body, possibly could be tightened but the pipe may have to be cut to allow it to turn then re-soldered!
If it's leaking per the second picture, at the screw on part of the main body, possibly could be tightened but the pipe may have to be cut to allow it to turn then re-soldered!
#3
04-24-19, 04:51 PM
Group Moderator
How bad is the leak? I don't see water so is it just enough to leave a mineral deposit behind or is it actually dripping and leaving a spot on the floor. If it's minor I'd be tempted to just leave it.
There are Shark/Gator Bite fittings you can use but I don't like using them on valves. Bite fittings work well when there is no strain, tension or movement. I have seen them leak when pressure is applied like when opening and closing a valve. Also, Bite style fittings don't have structural strength like a sweated fitting so your current rigid installation will be made somewhat flexible if you use Bite fittings. Clamping and supporting the pipes can minimize much of this, but it's more work. If replacing the valve I would use a traditional sweated type.
There are Shark/Gator Bite fittings you can use but I don't like using them on valves. Bite fittings work well when there is no strain, tension or movement. I have seen them leak when pressure is applied like when opening and closing a valve. Also, Bite style fittings don't have structural strength like a sweated fitting so your current rigid installation will be made somewhat flexible if you use Bite fittings. Clamping and supporting the pipes can minimize much of this, but it's more work. If replacing the valve I would use a traditional sweated type.
#4
04-24-19, 05:23 PM
There was a dime sized spot on the floor, and a little wetness on the bottom of the valve. I wiped it off with my finger and put a bucket under it. That was a couple of hours ago. Right now there is nothing in the bucket, and nothing on the valve. It must be in the very early stage of leaking.
#6
04-26-19, 10:15 AM
Member
I imagine you attempted to tighten the thumb screw in the picture. That screw is to allow water in the pipe to drain out, when loosened. So it basically comes with a hole in it and will always leak if it is not good and snug.
#8
04-30-19, 07:38 AM
Member
OK. I have one of those thumb screws on the inside shut off valve for my outside hose bibs. When I remove my hose and turn off the water for the winter, I open that valve. It allows the water that was sitting right up to the hose level outside, to vent and drain out. Depending on the slope of the pipe it will either drain outside or through that valve. Then I just tighten it back up and she is ready for next spring.
That is what it is for.
That is what it is for.
