Galvanized to PVC question
#1
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Galvanized to PVC question
In my situation there is not enough room between the galvanized fittings to cut and have a stub big enough to use a no-hub adapter. I am working with a 1-1/2" waste line. I am wondering if I can connect one side of a No-hub adapter over the female portion of a galvanized fittings (maybe use a 2" to 1-1/2" no hub?) And the other to the PVC? Or am I not allow to put it of a fitting and it NEEDS to be on a "regular" section of pipe? (the "regular" section is under the floor on the second story and I don't want to pull the floor up).
Or should I try using a PVC 1-1/2" male threaded adapter to connect the PVC to the female end of the galvanized fittings (could someone recommend the correct adapter?)
Thank you for your help in advance!
Or should I try using a PVC 1-1/2" male threaded adapter to connect the PVC to the female end of the galvanized fittings (could someone recommend the correct adapter?)
Thank you for your help in advance!
#3
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should I try using a PVC 1-1/2" male threaded adapter to connect the PVC to the female end of the galvanized fittings
No hub will not fit over a fitting very well. Regular fernco will work better, although not quiet a correct way to use it.
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Thank you for your reply. So looking at it again it does not look like galvanized to me. I think it is copper because of the size of the connections and sodder around the connections. So I guess the question now is: can I use a 1-1/2" coupling sheath (or no-hub or fernco?) on the end of one of the copper fittings or do I need to use a free section of the copper? To I would cut the pipe back to the edge of a fitting and place the coupling sheath over that (with some Teflon dope?) And the other end I would do pvc?
This is looking straight down into the shower/tub access panel
This is looking back under the floor and away from the tub
This is looking under the current tub(we are replacing)
This a close up on a connection to see the sodder and look of the copper
This is looking straight down into the shower/tub access panel
This is looking back under the floor and away from the tub
This is looking under the current tub(we are replacing)
This a close up on a connection to see the sodder and look of the copper
#5
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Your images did not work..
If you have copper tied on a galvanized or cast iron fitting, it will still have thread. (Male adapter)
If it is copper fitting, it will be sweated on. In that case, the fitting won't be much larger than a copper pipe used. You are supposed to use copper to PVC/galvanized adapter in this case, although many people just use 1 1/2" to 1 1/4" reducer fernco (copper tubing is 1/4" smaller than PVC).
If you have copper tied on a galvanized or cast iron fitting, it will still have thread. (Male adapter)
If it is copper fitting, it will be sweated on. In that case, the fitting won't be much larger than a copper pipe used. You are supposed to use copper to PVC/galvanized adapter in this case, although many people just use 1 1/2" to 1 1/4" reducer fernco (copper tubing is 1/4" smaller than PVC).
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My apologies on the images in the previous post. I actually don't think there is any galvanized in this section of drain. When we bought the house, we were told by the inspector that the home's drain system was galvanized but I am not sure he looked at this section because I think it is all copper. So if this is all copper what would your suggestion be? Thank you again!
This is looking straight down into the shower/tub access panel (attachment 1)
This is looking back under the floor and away from the tub (attachment 2)
This is looking under the current tub(we are replacing) (attachment 3)
This a close up on a connection to see the solder and look of the copper (attachment 4)
This is looking straight down into the shower/tub access panel (attachment 1)
This is looking back under the floor and away from the tub (attachment 2)
This is looking under the current tub(we are replacing) (attachment 3)
This a close up on a connection to see the solder and look of the copper (attachment 4)
Last edited by PJmax; 07-09-19 at 08:32 PM. Reason: Resized/enhanced pictures
#7
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That is all copper and brass.
Are you trying to tie in another tub to this line or are you replacing this existing tub?
You will have to cut further down the line and repipe whole thing in PVC. There really isn't any room to add or replace pipe there.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-P...-100372289-_-N
This is what you are supposed to use for transition between copper and PVC.
However, 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 flexible fernco coupling is often used as well.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-1...-125/100044154
Personally, I wouldn't use this on horizontal runs because it can sag.
Are you trying to tie in another tub to this line or are you replacing this existing tub?
You will have to cut further down the line and repipe whole thing in PVC. There really isn't any room to add or replace pipe there.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-P...-100372289-_-N
This is what you are supposed to use for transition between copper and PVC.
However, 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 flexible fernco coupling is often used as well.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-1...-125/100044154
Personally, I wouldn't use this on horizontal runs because it can sag.
#8
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I still don't understand what you want to do. The only reason for changing out copper drainage piping for Plastic is if you want to sell the copper for scrap value. Since the price of scrap copper dropped significantly over the last couple of years even this makes little sense.
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Thank you all for the advice.
We are replacing the tube and the overflow as well as drain will not be in exactly the same position. I think I am going to try to transition to PVC at the sanitary-T that is by the tub. So I will have pvc coming from the drain and overflow then it will transition back to the copper using a fernco before that first sanitary-T. What are your thoughts on that Furd? Thanks!
Is this
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-P...-100372289-_-N
Better than this?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-2-in...-150/100148566
We are replacing the tube and the overflow as well as drain will not be in exactly the same position. I think I am going to try to transition to PVC at the sanitary-T that is by the tub. So I will have pvc coming from the drain and overflow then it will transition back to the copper using a fernco before that first sanitary-T. What are your thoughts on that Furd? Thanks!
Is this
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-P...-100372289-_-N
Better than this?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-2-in...-150/100148566
#11
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Proflex option is the correct way and will keep the pipe aligned correctly. It also supports pipe at the joint.
Fernco rubber coupling is a hack way to do it. Often done by a remodeler, handyman, and the maintenance people. It will work fine on vertical runs for most part, but it will sag on horizontal runs. Which means, pipe will not align correctly.
You don't have enough pipe to use proflex at the sanitary tee. Proflex will not fit over the sanitary fee. At least not without forcing it.
Using fernco rubber coupling, it will fit over the sanitary tee. However, this is not the correct fitting and I doubt you will have enough room to actually put a new trap and still line up with your new tub.
That is why I suggest cut farther down the line (before 2 45s) and repipe in PVC.
Another way to do it is using flexible (accordion type) slip joint tub drain kit, but I woudn't recommend it. It is very thin and flimsy.
There is also flexible PVC tub drain kit. This uses PVC hose and it is fine to use, but only overflow part is flexible and you still need PVC drain pipe to attach this kit to.
Fernco rubber coupling is a hack way to do it. Often done by a remodeler, handyman, and the maintenance people. It will work fine on vertical runs for most part, but it will sag on horizontal runs. Which means, pipe will not align correctly.
You don't have enough pipe to use proflex at the sanitary tee. Proflex will not fit over the sanitary fee. At least not without forcing it.
Using fernco rubber coupling, it will fit over the sanitary tee. However, this is not the correct fitting and I doubt you will have enough room to actually put a new trap and still line up with your new tub.
That is why I suggest cut farther down the line (before 2 45s) and repipe in PVC.
Another way to do it is using flexible (accordion type) slip joint tub drain kit, but I woudn't recommend it. It is very thin and flimsy.
There is also flexible PVC tub drain kit. This uses PVC hose and it is fine to use, but only overflow part is flexible and you still need PVC drain pipe to attach this kit to.
#12
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I agree with the others that the correct answer is to cut a lot of that out and connect to the copper pipe with no-hub couplers.
BUT... if you're looking to save the floor, I wouldn't have too much issue with using a Fernco rubber coupling. It should be able to be forced over the brass female fitting and make a good connection. I wouldn't have too much issue with it considering the fitting is accessible. It might not be 100% correct, but I think it would give you many years of hassle-free use.
BUT... if you're looking to save the floor, I wouldn't have too much issue with using a Fernco rubber coupling. It should be able to be forced over the brass female fitting and make a good connection. I wouldn't have too much issue with it considering the fitting is accessible. It might not be 100% correct, but I think it would give you many years of hassle-free use.
#13
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It should be able to be forced over the brass female fitting and make a good connection.