How do I stop this leak?
#1
01-31-20, 07:49 AM
How do I stop this leak?
So a bit of background I have very little plumbing experience but I am hoping that I can do this myself. I have posted in other areas and people keep referring me to saying I need a new nipple. When I look that up it appears the nipple is where the flex hose ends and goes into the heater. I have circled where the leak is currently and hoping to get some advice. Maybe you know the type of equipment I need as well.
So here is my plan of attack.
- Turn Black lever to the off position
- Go turn on the hot water at the 1st floor (where heater is located) in bathroom and kitchen to relieve pressure.
- Take a wrench and try to turn the nut that the flex hose ends on to get it off.
- At a loss as to how to get off that connector between the brass or copper part and the flex hose.
- If beyond repair possibly take connector to store and try to find replacement. And pick up some flex tape.
- Wrap the ends in the tape at least three times to ensure a snug fit
- Re-assemble (fitting screwed into copper/brass then the flex hose).
- Turn lever back to on position and pray.
So any thoughts suggestions, one thing I am weary of is do I need to do something to steady the copper or brass fixtures while I'm doing the wrench to prevent shifting or breakage elsewhere? Would just holding the other area steady with my hand work?
Thanks!!
#2
01-31-20, 07:56 AM
Group Moderator
I would just try tightening the fitting a bit. You'll need two wrenches. Put one on the brass hex just to the right of the leak. This wrench you will hold in place to prevent damage to the rigid piping. Put your other wrench on the hex to the left of the leak and this is the wrench you will move to tighten the fitting (righty tighty). There is no need to shut off water or do anything fancy. Just tighten the fitting a bit ( maybe 10°) and check back over the next several hours and see if that did it. If not tighten it a bit more. If that doesn't work post back and we'll go into other fixes.
#3
01-31-20, 08:08 AM
Thanks for the quick response. I should have mentioned this is for my home that I am many states away from currently and I only have a 7 day window which I will be in that area the 1st week of March. Because of that I was hoping I could have the backup plan already in place so I can move swiftly in the case just tightentig doesnt work.
Any idea what size wrench I need I have one of those that you adjust with your thumb (Adjustable or monkey wrench) and also It appears to be called a Plier Wrech. Will that do? Does it matter which wrench I use for which purpose?
Any idea what size wrench I need I have one of those that you adjust with your thumb (Adjustable or monkey wrench) and also It appears to be called a Plier Wrech. Will that do? Does it matter which wrench I use for which purpose?
#4
01-31-20, 08:59 AM
If Pilots suggestion doesn't solve the issue then
Size of wrench best determined in the store when your looking at them, they need to be large enough to fit over fitting and provide leverage, yet not unwieldy.
Good Luck!
- Turn Black lever to the off position
- Go turn on the hot water at the 1st floor (where heater is located) in bathroom and kitchen to relieve pressure.
- Take a Crescent (adjustable spanner) wrench and try to turn the nut that the flex hose ends on to get it off while holding the valve from turning with a pipe wrench.
- While holding the valve with a Crescent wrench, use the pipe wrench to remove the nipple inside the valve fitting.
- Throw away old nipple. Purchase longer nipple, enough so that when tightening it, the jaws of the pipe wrench do not bite into threads, 2-3 inches should do. Cost maybe $2. And pick up some flex tape.
- Wrap the ends in the tape at least three times to ensure a snug fit
- Re-assemble (fitting nipple into valve, tightening, then installing flex hose). Note: Still need to counter hold the valve from turning.
- Turn lever back to on position and pray.
Size of wrench best determined in the store when your looking at them, they need to be large enough to fit over fitting and provide leverage, yet not unwieldy.
Good Luck!
#5
01-31-20, 02:10 PM
Member
It looks like the flex hose is a taper thread and the valve is straight, they will engage but not always seal, one needs to be replaced!
#6
01-31-20, 06:23 PM
Member
That type fitting should not even need any tape or dope.
Once it's over tightened, it trashed.
Once it's over tightened, it trashed.
#7
01-31-20, 07:44 PM
Thanks is there a particular name for this type of fitting or is niplle the correct term? Will I need to go to the store with the old one to get the right size? Lots of great info here thanks everyone!!
#8
01-31-20, 08:09 PM
Group Moderator
It looks like the flex line has the same nut at both ends. That would mean all you need is a 3/4" pipe nipple. The nipple in the picture is a called a close nipple. You can get one several inches to make it easier to install.
CasualJoe
voted this post useful.
#9
02-01-20, 02:17 AM
Member
See the thread at the bottom of the flex line, that is straight thread (NPS) so I'm assuming the other end of the flex line at the valve is also,
The valve would be straight thread as well.
The nipple between, if that's what Im seeing under all that junk, is tapered (NPT). They have the same thread size/pitch so they will start to screw together but not seal.
You just need a brass male x female adaptor to go into the valve so the flex can screw on pretty much like the copper fitting on the back side of the valve!
The valve would be straight thread as well.
The nipple between, if that's what Im seeing under all that junk, is tapered (NPT). They have the same thread size/pitch so they will start to screw together but not seal.
You just need a brass male x female adaptor to go into the valve so the flex can screw on pretty much like the copper fitting on the back side of the valve!
#11
02-02-20, 07:01 AM
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
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hi all -
I think this is correct.I think if that is a water heater type flex hose, then those are swivel nuts on the end and the threads are tapered. To tighten up you have to hold with and use wrenches as others have said. You would use tape with tapered threads. I use pipe dope on top of the tape for tapered threads (some plumbers do in fact use dope on top of the tape) and I never have leaks.
I think this is correct.I think if that is a water heater type flex hose, then those are swivel nuts on the end and the threads are tapered. To tighten up you have to hold with and use wrenches as others have said. You would use tape with tapered threads. I use pipe dope on top of the tape for tapered threads (some plumbers do in fact use dope on top of the tape) and I never have leaks.
#12
02-02-20, 08:10 AM
I agree with the others, replacing that nipple is the cheapest solution.
If you want an even easier solution, you can replace the whole collection of different fittings. Remove the SharkBite coupler (the first fitting on the left) and replace the whole thing with a flex SharkBite hose.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBit...bvlf/202685676
The more fittings, the more places for problems to arise. There's nothing wrong with the current setup, there just seem to be an excessive number of fittings.
If you want an even easier solution, you can replace the whole collection of different fittings. Remove the SharkBite coupler (the first fitting on the left) and replace the whole thing with a flex SharkBite hose.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBit...bvlf/202685676
The more fittings, the more places for problems to arise. There's nothing wrong with the current setup, there just seem to be an excessive number of fittings.
#13
02-02-20, 01:35 PM
Member
Just be aware the nipple in the picture is a straight thread nipple, a black or galvanized nipple will be tapered, two different types of pipe!
