I have a leaking exterior hose faucet that spews water when turned on. I don't have many options given the current quarantine and I didn't notice a matching faucet at Home Depot. Do I need to match it exactly? I've attached pictures for reference.
Are the kits universal? I checked the basement and found the pipe. It has a shutoff valve and then it's a single pipe to the outside. Do I need to remove that and match up the diameter/thread? Or do I just kill the water and remove the cap/etc. as shown above?
You have two options. Shut off the valve and replace the entire frost free spigot, or shut off the valve and remove the cap and look for a replacement. Can't say the kits are all universal. If you want to replace the breaker kit I would take it apart and take it to the store.
And, now the actual spigot is leaking. I forgot to cut off water during the winter which broke the cap and ultimately the spigot because it is leaking. Blah. Does it twist off from the inside and then I can pull it out from the outside? There's 2 screws that seem to be holding it in place against the siding. Then, just match up the length and thread type?
Do I need to replace pipe after inside shutoff? Shouldn’t there be threads at the end near the outer exterior of house? If so, i already remove the two screws on siding and just need to twist with pipe wrench on the spigot to remove ?
Remove the 2 outside screws, put one wrench on the shutoff, one wrench on the spigot and turn it off, then measure it or take it to the store to get the same size. It's probably 12" long.
The spigot is flush with the house? You really can just turn the spigot with hand or wrench ? I’m confused if I am removing the long pipe or just the spigot which is attached to the end of the pipe near the outer wall?
You were 100% right but this didn't go well for me. I tried to replace it with https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...19EB/205812130 which is nearly 100% identical including the plastic spacer. The ONLY problem is that 12” doesn’t mean 12”’ as this was 1.5” longer due to locking nut and how it’s threaded. Time to go match up again
I have a trap primer that connects from my laundry room sink to a discharge hose (not sure if that's the correct term) in the basement. The discharge hose travels about 20ft under cement and empties into the side of a floor drain. I've never had any issues with this until now. When I run the laundry room sink, for a brief moment water backs up from the black discharge hose shown in the picture below and spills out onto the cement (usually about 1 cup). I'm not sure if it's because there is an incomplete blockage? Once the water is running there's no more water backing up and it flows well into the floor drain. Any suggestions on how to fix this issue? The discharge hose is rubber and 5/8" internal diameter.
[img]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/620x465/trap_primer_cf6c2ab79ee891dc1f021a86b35c16ae88effb4d.jpg[/img]
Can I easily replace the handle on this shut off valve with something that will raise it above ground level?
[img]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/320x240/water_shut_off_1_8bd8010f0e851f1a302e6f8aed1a46b40eda4936.jpg[/img]
[img]https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/320x240/water_shut_off_2_67c7dc3ae00654abc0c25a481054d0f8046a138f.jpg[/img]
[img]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/320x240/water_shut_off_3_7a06c115ca9229bcf9da58407587caf1f0fd8107.jpg[/img]
04-30-20, 08:45 PM
