How to replace PVC valve?
#1
05-17-20, 09:25 AM
How to replace PVC valve?
So my hose has went from slow, to a trickle. The water pressure to utility sink and washing machine are unaffected, so the issue looks to be the PVC valve controlling the hose.
I'm not a novice with plumbing at this point, but I've never cut a pipe.
Just looking for what would be the easiest fix for this, and what I would need to complete the job.
I'm thinking cut the pipe, put a coupling on one side connected to the new pipe, and have the new valve on the other. Prime, glue, and good?
I'm not a novice with plumbing at this point, but I've never cut a pipe.
Just looking for what would be the easiest fix for this, and what I would need to complete the job.
I'm thinking cut the pipe, put a coupling on one side connected to the new pipe, and have the new valve on the other. Prime, glue, and good?
#2
05-17-20, 09:32 AM
Group Moderator
That looks like a ball valve and they don't usually clog.
Does the handle turn all the way open so that the handle is parallel to the pipe ?
Your method is good if you need to replace that valve.
Does the handle turn all the way open so that the handle is parallel to the pipe ?
Your method is good if you need to replace that valve.
whaturmuva
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#3
05-17-20, 10:42 AM
Yes, it turns fully but next to nothing comes out of it. It has slowly gotten worse over the past few years, and now it's trickling out of the hose outside.
#4
05-17-20, 10:45 AM
Group Moderator
You hate to change it if it's not bad. I guess you'll need to cut it out to even check it out. If you get it out and it looks like there is no problem..... then there is an issue with your frost proof bib.
whaturmuva
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#5
05-17-20, 10:51 AM
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I think you need some side-to-side play in that pipe after you cut it, to slip on a new coupling, unless you use a special repair coupling.
whaturmuva
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#6
05-17-20, 10:59 AM
Group Moderator
whaturmuva
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#7
05-17-20, 11:51 AM
Group Moderator
In your photo the ball valve is in the closed position. You should get zero flow from your spigot. If that is true then it's a good thing. Next, rotate the red handle 90 degrees so it's parallel to the pipe and go outside and open the spigot. Hopefully some water now flows. If that is correct then it means the ball valve is working. If you are getting the same water flow regardless of the valve position then the valve may have broken and the red knob is no longer connected to the internals of the valve and the valve should be replaced.
If the water flow from your spigot did stop when the valve is in the off position and some water flows when the valve is open then I'd not replace the valve and start searching for the problem elsewhere. I'd start by turning off the ball valve. Then go outside and remove the core from your sillcock. Then have a helper briefly open the ball valve while you look at the faucet outside. You should have a strong, gushing flow. That could mean something is wrong with the spigot or there was something caught and clogging it and was hopefully blown out.
If the water flow from your spigot did stop when the valve is in the off position and some water flows when the valve is open then I'd not replace the valve and start searching for the problem elsewhere. I'd start by turning off the ball valve. Then go outside and remove the core from your sillcock. Then have a helper briefly open the ball valve while you look at the faucet outside. You should have a strong, gushing flow. That could mean something is wrong with the spigot or there was something caught and clogging it and was hopefully blown out.
whaturmuva
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#8
05-17-20, 11:54 AM
Group Moderator
I'd start by cutting off the pipe on the right side of the shutoff. Determine if the shutoff is the problem or not by turning it on and off to see how much volume you have. If it's bad, then cut it off and replace it. If it's fine, replace the frost free spigot.
whaturmuva
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#9
05-17-20, 01:26 PM
I took the advice and removed the sillcock. Water blasted out just fine with it off, so that's our issue. Have to take the old one to lowes tomorrow and find one that matches for the easiest swap.
Thank you to everyone who chimed in.
Thank you to everyone who chimed in.
XSleeper
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#10
05-19-20, 09:20 PM
Could have been caused by bugs
I had a neighbor come over and ask me if I knew a good plumber. This is their vacation house, and for health reasons had been their only rarely for a few years. Well, I didn't know a plumber, but asked what the problem was. A frostproof hose bib wouldn't flow. Long story short. We turned off the water, I unscrewed the valve stem, and turned the water back on. It blasted out an insect nest built up in the valve body. Reassembled, everything worked fine.
I can find no evidence that that second drain system has a vent. It for sure isn't going through the roof, and I'm fairly sure it's not going through the walls to the original vent. I tested this by filling tub 2 up half way, and putting my ear near the old toilet connection on the original vent (they left the stub on the vent open when they moved it). I heard zero air gurgling in that vent when tub 2 is drained, and I 'DO' hear air gurgling when I drain tub 1 and the washer.
This leads me to believe that the 2nd drain system isn't vented. Good assumption?
If I could move the kitchen sink and washer to that 2nd drain system, it would help with another project. Is that possible?
"If" the 2nd drain system isn't vented, it would be great if I could move it over and have everything work like it has been working.
If venting issues show up, could I solve those issues by putting a tee on the washer/sink drain, and run a pipe over to the original CI vent?
