[url]https://flic.kr/p/2j47chP[/url] friend has this very difficult to reach valve for the outside spigot. has been using vice grips to turn it on and off every year. however now its discovered its leaking when you turn it on. it drips in the wall. only thing i can think of is if someone cuts the back of the cabinet and cuts out the pipe . i dont do plumbing so just curious what a pro would do in this case and guesstimate as to the bill.

[color=#222222]Hey Everyone,[/color] Im a newbie and getting ready for basement remodel and need to take existing copper lines attached to the joists and run new pex through joists to free up for sheetrock ceiling. I was going to start with my heating pipes first and then move on to fixtures from the water heater. I already bought Uponor pex lines for all the fixtures and Im considering doing the same for the heating system. I have nat gas boiler, indirect water heater which is a zone plus 3 other zones; main 1st floor, addition 1st floor and 2nd floor. These are all connected to radiators which have either 1" or 3/4 line that tees with 1/2 inch to each radiator, except the upstairs which has 3/4 which already has brass to pex manifold setup. MY questions are: 1) Which type of Pex Can I use Uponor Pex and should I buy and should i just match up current diameters of copper pipe to pex? (HEating is relatively good throughout the house) 2) What is the method for working on the heating system pipes while keeping the water heater zone still active? And Vice Versa 3) When connecting to radiator should I install new ball valve or can I keep existing and use a sweat on fitting just below it Pics are my current setup [url]https://imgur.com/a/68Yxuho[/url] [color=#222222][color=#222222][color=#222222][color=#222222][color=#222222][color=#222222][color=#222222][color=#222222][color=#222222][color=#222222]Any help or pointing to other threads is greatly appreciated! Brad[/color][/color][/color][/color][/color][/color][/color][/color][/color][/color]