Sewage drain line bowing out, need to fit it back down and in...plumbing 'jack'?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Sewage drain line bowing out, need to fit it back down and in...plumbing 'jack'?
my sewage drain line when we first fitted it in, didn't want to go in nice and evenly and now paying the price as it's starting to bow outward and would eventually separate from the adapter.
Is the best solution to secure a 2x4 to the wall and use a car jack (one end against the 2x4 the other end against the bowed out part) to straighten out the pipe and then try and force the pipe further into the adapter?
(note originally the purple primer and cement were used but again, the top pipe piece never fully fit all the way into the adapter below it)

Is the best solution to secure a 2x4 to the wall and use a car jack (one end against the 2x4 the other end against the bowed out part) to straighten out the pipe and then try and force the pipe further into the adapter?
(note originally the purple primer and cement were used but again, the top pipe piece never fully fit all the way into the adapter below it)

#2
If you previously used cleaner and glue there..... I doubt the pipe will go into the fitting now.
You may have to cut the fitting off to replace it.
You may have to cut the fitting off to replace it.
#3
Group Moderator
I agree, I would cut out and replace that area. The problem started with "....the top pipe piece never fully fit all the way into the adapter below it". I can see at least one Band-Aid has been applied but still doesn't solve the underlying problem, the piping was not cut& fit properly. You can see that the pipe up from the floor is crooked, probably meaning the side line coming in is too long, and the pipe from above is also crooked trying to meet up with the crooked pipe from the floor.
#4
Member
Yes I would also redo it.
Looks like you may have a problem with the concrete floor to the ceiling in this area shifting ( becoming less and buckling the pipe. Might be a good idea to also install an expansion joint.
Looks like you may have a problem with the concrete floor to the ceiling in this area shifting ( becoming less and buckling the pipe. Might be a good idea to also install an expansion joint.
#5
Forum Topic Moderator
Agreed with the others. It's not going to get better without cutting it all out and starting over. Pipes don't like joining at angles.
Use a pair of rubber no-hub (shielded) couplings to replace about 2' of the 4" PVC including the wye. Then the 1.5" or 2" pipe coming in from the side can be joined in too securely.
Use a pair of rubber no-hub (shielded) couplings to replace about 2' of the 4" PVC including the wye. Then the 1.5" or 2" pipe coming in from the side can be joined in too securely.