Leaking pipe
#1
08-17-20, 10:37 AM
Leaking pipe
Could someone identify the pipe in the attached for me? It is leaking, not much, but enough to have me concerned. I have a gallon bucket under it and it was filled about a quarter of the way after 24 hours. Wondering what needs to be done. Thanks. - Peter
#2
08-17-20, 11:41 AM
Group Moderator
It's probably the condensate drain for your water heater, furnace or air conditioner. Drip water is what it's supposed to do.
#3
08-17-20, 02:13 PM
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: San Diego Ca. USA
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Hi, Few choices you have been giving. I would suggest find the other end of the pipe . If It goes to the hot water T P Valve, they are not suppose to leak. You may have to replace the valve.
Good Luck Woodbutcher
Good Luck Woodbutcher
#4
08-19-20, 10:35 AM
Thanks, guys. To provide more background, on the other side of the wall is the water heater. It has a T&P valve and an expansion tank. We had an issue with the valve leaking months ago, so we replaced both it and the expansion tank. So is this possibly a backup to the T&P valve? We've had no issues with the valve and the expansion tank inside the basement since we made the replacements.
#5
08-19-20, 10:42 AM
Group Moderator
A T&P valve has a 3/4" drain line. It needs to be run to a place where if it blows off it won't hurt anyone. I'm not sure what the code is but I have never used PVC pipe on a T&P valve and believe it to be against code to do so. That drain line is typically a short piece of 3/4" copper pipe and discharges to the floor.
If the PVC is connected inside to your T&P valve.... the valve is leaking.
If the PVC is connected inside to your T&P valve.... the valve is leaking.
#7
08-19-20, 03:38 PM
Member
Not sure why a PVC line for a pressure valve would not be exceptable.
It's under no pressure, the one's they sell in the store to run it to the pan are only SCH 20 PVC.
It's far better to have a pressure valve blow off and drain to the outside whenever possible, instead of flooding the inside.
If that is connected to the Pressure valve and it's still leaking after changing the valve, I'd be doing a water pressure test on the main incoming water.
It's as simple as connecting a pressure gauge to an outside faucet.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Water-So...H100/308724108
There's no reason the pressure should be more then 70 PSI.
It's under no pressure, the one's they sell in the store to run it to the pan are only SCH 20 PVC.
It's far better to have a pressure valve blow off and drain to the outside whenever possible, instead of flooding the inside.
If that is connected to the Pressure valve and it's still leaking after changing the valve, I'd be doing a water pressure test on the main incoming water.
It's as simple as connecting a pressure gauge to an outside faucet.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Water-So...H100/308724108
There's no reason the pressure should be more then 70 PSI.
#8
08-19-20, 03:57 PM
Group Moderator
Not sure why a PVC line for a pressure valve would not be exceptable.
#9
08-21-20, 09:43 AM
To provide more background, on the other side of the wall is the water heater. It has a T&P valve and an expansion tank
Maybe a picture from the other side of this wall might help? You should see a 3/4" PVC pipe somewhere!
Another question is I'm starting to get intermittent hammering on the faucet attached to the valve I'm showing in the pic. After bleeding is done, should I fully open the valve? I've been using it partially open.