Kitchen sink: pipe from basket strainer into P-trap broke

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  #1  
Old 09-17-20, 11:23 AM
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Kitchen sink: pipe from basket strainer into P-trap broke

Hi,

I have a double sink and the left side started leaking, the reason Pipe from Basket Strainer into P-Trap broke off.

Then the right started leaking but it only does it if the sink is at a certain water level, so at this point I called a plumber to get quotes ...

Quotes are to replace both Basket Strainers and the Broken Pipe ($1275, another $950). I'm a novice but I want to attempt this myself as funds need to be diverted to furnace & driveway. This is doable right? I will be heading to Menards later today and want to tackle the immediate issue which is the broken pipe (It fell off yesterday).

I am assuming I can replace just the Pipe today and tackle the basket strainers over the weekend. If its easy enough, I would work on the left side today and right on Friday/Saturday. I've been watching videos but would appreciate feedback / pointers, etc. Thanks!

Pics :


Broken pipe, Left side

Full View

RHS Basket strainer

LHS Basket strainer

Full View, RHS

Full View, LHS ... pipe broke off completely. Highest Priority
 
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  #2  
Old 09-17-20, 01:16 PM
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It looks like only the small tailpiece from the basket has broken. If you can get a replacement that is super easy to replace. Take the white plastic nut off the bottom of your sink basket and throw away what remains of the old tail piece and put in the new one (don't forget the plastic washer). Then reattach your drain pipe.

 
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Old 09-17-20, 03:14 PM
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$1275??? Geez, I could fly there and back to fix it and still make money.

This is about as easy as it gets. Pilot Dane told you all you need to know. Go buy yourself a pipe wrench to get the old tailpiece parts off, and buy a new tailpiece. $5 tops.

You dont need new baskets... they are probably only including that to make it worth their while and make you think they are earning that $1275. What a joke.
 
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Old 09-17-20, 10:35 PM
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XSleeper LOL! ... I came back all upset but you got me to laugh. The $1275 guy was honest and said the part were only $150 .... so the rest labor

Anyway I was unsuccessful, just gave up an hour ago and was feeling dumb but reminding me of that $1275 price tag sobered me right up.

At Menards, I asked for help and was shown which items to buy : I bought a 12-inch tail-piece as a standalone as well as the tail-piece washer and steel (not pvc) nut. Got home, had to use an channelblock to remove the nut that was stuck. Cleaned out the P-Trap to remove any part of the old metal tail-piece, cleaned the nut and inspected & cleaned the washer. Measured the tail-piece, cut on 1 inch and was ready to put it together.

I can't seem to get the top of the tail-piece to line up with the end of the strainer, so screwing the nut is not working right or it always gets uneven. Then I decided to remove tail-piece from the P-Trap and just try to screw it in first, then figure out a way to get it into the P-Trap and I'm still unable to get it screw and hold. I swamped it out for another tail-piece that I bought as a back-up plan (adjustable length) and I can line it up better but still same screw/threading issue. I feel embarrassed to ask but what am I doing wrong here.

I had to use an channelblock to remove the nut that was on the strainer ... do you think I damaged the threads?

RHS : On close inspection, this doesn't look straight

LHS : On close inspection, this doesn't look straight. Am I suppose to do something with the P-Trap?
 
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Old 09-17-20, 10:42 PM
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Yes, the tail piece should be perfectly vertical...

Loosen the nuts on your p trap so that it can both swivel... and slide in or out of the drain as needed. Or just remove it completely. Put your tailpiece on the basket first. Then put your p trap back on. If it won't line up, because you need to shove there weir into the drain farther then you need to cut a small amount off the end of the weir and try it again. The weir is the horizontal part of the p trap assembly.

When you finally get it, I'll split the 1275 with you. LOL! Just kidding.
 
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Old 09-18-20, 08:33 AM
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I will consider a split after we(aka you e-helping) complete the entire list of work .... not just the tail-piece.



I will attack this after work but I didn't get your 2nd paragraph. I would cut the Right side of the P-trap?
 
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Old 09-18-20, 11:25 AM
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Haha! I hope your joking about the first part.

and no, not that piece... The right end of the piece on the right. If it acts like you cant make it straight without shoving that piece on the right in further (the trap weir) then you need to loosen the next nut to the right (not pictured) and cut a little off the end of the weir so you can shove it in further. Once you loosen the nut the weird will just pull out. Don't lose the compression washer that is slipped over the end or get it turned around backward.
 
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Old 09-18-20, 08:22 PM
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Yes, I was joking ... I was being sarcastic that the splitting the 1275 would only be fair is we do everything listed on the quote but you already said in your 1st post that a lot of that was fake anyway so ... it wasn't going to happen. Notice that the order was to replace BOTH P-Traps and the Y going into to wall, if it working why replace it.

No time to work on it today, so tomorrow it is.
 
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Old 09-21-20, 07:04 PM
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All done, so the issue on Thursday was that the split nut that I bought to connect the tailpiece to the end of strainer wouldn't screw on and stay on, I finally concluded on Saturday morning that I have to replace the strainer . Watch videos, bought a new strainer and it was replace it today, all done ... and I also cut 1 more inch off the tailpiece so it fit into the current P-Trap without having to trim.


.
Then the water test came, filled the sink waited 10 mins, no leaks but and the Y is leaking . It was dripping so I decided to conclude test and start draining the sink, it was draining slowly .. already noticed this on the RHS sink which was the motivation to fix the LHS so that I can use my trusted Clr Power Plumber Drain Pressurized Drain Opener. I did and it went made a loud sound and the drip became a steady flow. So ironically I now have an unusable sink . Help? I guess I have to replace this ....

Apologize for the pictures, it doesn't look nice.


 
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Old 09-21-20, 07:23 PM
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Wow, its so shiny!

As for the leak, try unscrewing your white trap, (completely remove it from the black pipe) then see if any of those black abs fittings are threaded and can be loosened. If so, its possible its leaking at the threads. Won't say more until we know. I'm thinking that the hub with the knuckles on it (in front of your red mark) might unscrew. So basically the first 3 pieces or so are all fused together and might unscrew as one piece.
 
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Old 09-24-20, 04:26 PM
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No progress, had other commitments after work and probably won't to get to it on Fri/Sat.

I do believe your description is spot on. It smelled foul after I tried to unclog it so I can only imagine how much more horrid it will smell when I have to unscrewing everything. I rather wait so that I can unscrew and then hopefully I can fix it on the same day.
 

Last edited by diyIn2017; 09-24-20 at 05:03 PM.
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Old 09-24-20, 04:30 PM
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Well, assuming that it unscrews, get a small jar or tube of TFE thread paste. Before you put it back together, put a generous amount of paste on the threads and then screw it back together. Don't overtighten it, just turn it until its hand tight and the elbow is pointing in the right direction.
 
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Old 09-27-20, 01:57 PM
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Hi XSleeper.

XSleeper

First, I want to thank you for holding my hand through this. I appreciate it.

I was unable to unscrew the ...trap weir (hope that is correct) from black Abs drain pipe. After using all wrenches that I had + muscle power and noticing that the abs drain pipe started loosening, I concluded that the previous owner must have glued/cemented them together, so I unscrewed it at a different spot and removed it. Here is what I have ..... Pipe is cracked and the Screw nut on the other part of the ABS pipe has broken off.

What to do? I should have given you a heads up that I was going to work on in today. I'll head out to Menards and start buying items that look close to what I have while I wait on your feedback. If you look at my previous picture you'll see that on the RHS, the ..weir goes straight into the drain, it doesn't have this extra J-bend piece..


White Trap + Black Pipe

Close up of pipe, see the cracked line

The .. weir has the same cement-like substance that the black abs has, I think it was cemented.

Another angle of pipe

Screw Nut is cracked in 2 places, and bottom part cracked off
 
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Old 09-27-20, 02:06 PM
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Geez, what a cluster. Whoever put that together originally really hosed you.

Can you take a picture of whats left coming out of the wall from above (looking down on it) so that I can see the space available between fittings? It's looking more and more like you might have to get into the wall so that you can replace it all. All that tape wrapped around the pipe in that bottom picture makes me think its all a lost cause.

Do you have any access to this area from the opposite side of the wall or not?
 
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Old 09-27-20, 02:17 PM
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XSleeper

I was afraid of that answer. Give me 5 minutes to take pictures

>> Do you have any access to this area from the opposite side of the wall or not?
Yes, its an external wall ... don't tell me you want me to cut it open? I feel nervous already .....
 
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Old 09-27-20, 02:31 PM
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No. If it's an external wall then you do not really have access to it without tearing into the siding. If you need to tear into the wall you will do it from the interior side... under the sink.

I would probably cut open a 12x12 square around that blob of foam with an oscillating tool to open it up and give you access.
 
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Old 09-27-20, 02:41 PM
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XSleeper

Here are the pics .. let me know if you need a different angle or a re-take. I feel embarrassed that it looks so dirty ... even though its not my fault. The ones in the YouTube videos look all new & clean LOL!

Older home (..45 years), old plumbing, I bought it from the original owner


 

Last edited by XSleeper; 09-27-20 at 03:06 PM. Reason: Removed uneccessary photos
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Old 09-27-20, 03:00 PM
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It may not be the best repair but it will save you from completely tearing everything apart.

Cut on the red line, leaving as much pipe exposed as possible, because you will need to glue your new parts to that short section of pipe. You would clean the pipe as best as you can with a little emery cloth or sandpaper. Then use cleaner and all purpose ABS/PVC glue as you reassemble your pieces. You don't need all those threaded fittings... probably just a coupler, an elbow, a short section of pipe and a SJ adapter. Possibly a new p trap if you want to replace that too.
 
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Old 09-27-20, 03:03 PM
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XSleeper

Not sure what happened, I posted 4 pics and just noticed that it was showing only 1.

I updated the post .. if that makes a difference.
 
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Old 09-27-20, 03:07 PM
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Yeah, I edited them out. We don't need 5 pictures of the same thing. It takes long enough for this page to load as it is. Talk about picture overload.
 
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Old 09-27-20, 03:26 PM
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Ah I see, you removed the pictures.

>> Cut on the red line, leaving as much pipe exposed as possible, because you will need to glue your new parts to that short section of pipe.
Would a hack saw work? I have a hack saw and a ... hand saw

>> You would clean the pipe as best as you can with a little emery cloth or sandpaper. Then use cleaner
Any cleaner or is this a plumbing/ABS/PVC specific product?

>> probably just a coupler, an elbow, a short section of pipe and a SJ adapter. Possibly a new p trap if you want to replace that too

I was following until here ... I can look up the parts and buy it, but can you give me summary/visual. I re-creating the piece that I pulled out, right?

>> a short section of pipe
Should this be PVC or ABS?
 
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Old 09-27-20, 03:38 PM
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The cleaner is on the shelves next to the glue. You can use a hacksaw if you have the room to move it back and forth. Or use a compact hacksaw if space is tight.

No you are not recreating that frankenstein part. You are getting from point a to point b with the least amount of pieces possible. I think i mentioned everything you need.

Use ABS or PVC, just be sure you get right glue. They all look the same so read the labels. I usually get all purpose so it works with either one.
 
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Old 09-27-20, 03:48 PM
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You will dry fit all of the following and make sure it works before you start gluing. If you are unsure of how to do any of this there are probably hundreds of YouTube videos showing how its done.

After you get it cut off and cleaned up, its recommended you use a purple primer before using the glue. Then glue on a coupler.

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...508-c-8571.htm

Then cut a short section of pipe, glue it into the coupler. Cant tell you how long it needs to be, you are there.

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...4426393119.htm

Then you will put on an elbow like what you had before. I assume it was a 45.

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...039-c-8571.htm

Then glue in a slip joint adapter that will fit your p-trap weir. This particular one will glue right into the elbow.

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...700-c-8571.htm

Then either reuse your existing trap weir or get an entirely new p-trap if yours wont work. This one is 1 1/2" they also make 1 1/4".

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...130-c-9416.htm
 
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Old 09-27-20, 08:30 PM
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Thanks XSleeper for the list, I had already left so I didn't see it.

I used your initial post (coupler, elbow, small pipe and SJ Adapter) and took that my old part with me as back-up. The rep in Plumbing helped me but gave me a few incorrect items. All this means is I have to pause until tomorrow.

I've done a comparison to your list and will buy/exchange for these items tomorrow.

This is what I got :
Coupler (its longer than yours)
Elbow was 60-Degree .. compared it to the old,
The SJ Adapter looks the same as yours but different SKUs and we did dry fit with the Elbow.
For the pipe, he gave me a Tail-piece so that will go back.
Already bought a new P-Trap last week

Re-reading your posts, I think you're saying I need a Cleaner, Glue and Primer? Are these right ...

Oatey All Purpose Cement

Oatey Cleaner

Oatey Primer ... All Purpose
 
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Old 09-27-20, 09:09 PM
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Yes........................
 
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Old 09-27-20, 10:37 PM
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I cut out the pipe as depicted in your picture. I was trying to leave as much exposed pipe so I started cutting at the red line but ended up angling forward and have a bit of that part left. I wanted to check with you to see if that is okay before attempting to saw it off more. The Coupling is supposed to go over the exposed pipe and not in, right?

I am doing a dry-fitting and the Coupling is too big. Its the Tail-piece is the wrong type of pipe but its 1-1/2 so I was expecting it to fit.


 
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Old 09-28-20, 05:49 AM
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The coupling is supposed to go over the old pipe so you can't leave any of the old hub on there or the coupling won't fit over it. (red mark). You put Schedule 40 DVW pipe into the coupling... (See the link above that says short section of pipe) Not a 1 1/2" tail piece. And that Schedule 40 DWV pipe fits right into the elbow without a trap adapter. I don't know why you put trap adapters on both sides of your 45 degree elbow, i didn't tell you to do that.
 
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Old 09-28-20, 04:02 PM
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Ok, getting a late start. Will start with cutting of the old hub that we left on. It took me a while to get it off yesterday but hopefully it'll go faster

I ran to the Menards during my lunch break, I bought all of the parts in your post except a shorter length of the Schedule 40 DVW pipe, I didn't get the 5", I got 2".

>> I don't know why you put trap adapters on both sides of your 45 degree elbow, i didn't tell you to do that.
That's what I bought before I saw your extensive list, but I've noted your corrections as I had the wrong items.
 
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Old 09-28-20, 05:16 PM
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XSleeper

All done with cutting the remains of the old hub.

I would like to understand the mechanics of what I should be trying to achieve or rather how to make sure I'm doing things technically right and fitting correctly.

1) The hub has a middle line, The small piece of pipe doesn't get to the middle but that is okay since that's all we have, right? I have it flush against the Black abs piece.

2) The Schedule 40 DVW pipe, when I'm gluing to the hub, I must push it down hard so that it get to the middle line? There is no Front/Back to the Coupler, so it doesn't matter which side glues to (1) vs the Sch 40 pipe, right?


3) We have been trying to recreate a simpler version of what I had before but I noticed that the RHS doesn't have an elbow and if I moved/re-centered LHS P-Trap to face the drain more, its closer to the drain pipe. Are there parts can I reconsider using if it looks like I can get Weir closer to the drain now? OR are all parts mandatory and I would just have to trim. I think the Coupler and SJ Adapter are a must, right? And the Schedule 40 DVW pipe?



4) If elbow is going to be used, its there a required placement angle (slope up or down) or is it mostly used to help connect to the P-Trap?

I hope I made sense. For now I'll use the old piece measurements to get started.

 
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Old 09-28-20, 05:32 PM
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I have given you about all the help I can. At some point you need to figure this out on your own.

Your first post, photo 2 shows the way your trap was oriented, with the trap weir going into the trap adapter that is going to be glued into your elbow. Your trap weir will need to be cut to the correct length and your pipe coming out of the coupler will need to be cut to the right length so that it all fits.

Start by inserting your 2 ft pipe into the coupler. Let it stick out too far.

Then put the trap weir into the trap adapter / elbow combination. Hold this over the top of the 2 ft pipe so that it will line up where its going to screw together. (If it doesn't line up, the trap weir will need to be cut shorter so that it will push into the adapter further.) Hold things over the top the way its going to be, then mark the pipe length.
 
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Old 09-28-20, 07:19 PM
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XSleeper

Thanks for your help. I understand .. I tend to overthink things and wanted to be sure that I should follow the same pattern as the old setup. I watched videos but didn't find one that mimicked my exact situation.

Something I forgot to mention, as I was cutting the old hub yesterday, parts of the RHS kitchen strainer fell off (my 1st post, 3rd picture .. and 1/3rd of it broke off at the rusted line. So I just got done replacing that. Now back to the fittings.
 
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Old 09-29-20, 08:50 PM
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Its done, I'll water test tomorrow.



 
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Old 09-30-20, 01:50 PM
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XSleeper

Water test passed on right, initially failed on left (weir + trap connection) so I loosened and made sure it was aligned correctly, tightened and it looks good now.

Its ... louder now, can hear it going down the drain, slurp-like while draining. Its drain faster... so not sure if the noise is good thing.

Thank you, I hope I didn't frustrate you too much. I did get nervous about making a mistake but so far so good. I'm happy I took pictures as I intend to humble brag to my brothers and girlfriends. My dad is proud of me . I almost think I can fix my furnace now.... almost. The irony that I had to do almost everything on that $1275 quote, I guess he saw the problems coming.
 
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Old 09-30-20, 02:07 PM
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Glad you got it whipped. Feels good, doesn't it?
 
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Old 09-30-20, 02:58 PM
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Yes, it does especially since I have other problems and this seemed like the one I could comfortably tackle.

Next is the Furnace maybe, I don't know ... HVAC was suggesting I should just get a new one at ~$8500 but this is the 1st time it's had a problem ... like why would I do that? He thinks I'm stupid.

Or maybe the leaking 1/2 bath faucet ...Or ...
 
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