Hello all, first post here. I'm looking to put in a shower and toilet down in the basement and was trying to get some help on identifying the roughed in plumbing.
Why are you using a sump and ejector pump for the sink if there are in floor drains available?
A toilet drain will be either 3" or 4" in size. A shower is 2" while a sink drain can be either 1 1/2" or 2" but the shower should have a trap buried under the floor. Also just as important is to look in the ceiling for the plumbing vent.
Yeah, I'm not really sure. I haven't seen a setup like this before.
The larger pipe could be for a toilet, but it looks like it's capped differently than a rough-in would be. Can the plug be removed?
The two other pipes could be a vanity drain, but I don't know why there would be two side by side. And why would you be using a pump instead of draining the laundry tub into those drains?
I'm thinking there's more to this rough-in plumbing that we can tell here
I can post some more pictures. I recently moved into the house and wasn't exactly sure what this set up was. Not that I'm in expert but it didn't like like your typical set at all.
I would do some investigating before starting a bathroom project. It looks like you have a sump or ejector pit in the floor that was filled with concrete which is suspicious. Add to that they sat a tank on the floor for the sink. My first thought is there is something wrong under the slab so the in floor drain piping might not be usable.
Hello everyone. Hope everyone has had a good Christmas/Holiday. I wanted to ask some more questions here and ask for any advice. I had two plumbers come out to see if there were any concerns. Looks like in the original build, they just capped of the shower drain with a small layer of cement. I cold chiseled it away and removed the cap rather easily to reveal the drain. They all drain into a sump pit and seem to have no issues. By their assumption, the ejector pump was put there as a easy way to get the washer working since that would need to work without having to do as much plumbing.
Here are my questions... The drain lines come up out of the cement and not through the framed wet wall. Should I move the framed wall and bore out holes (which I think 2x4s may be too small for code) or just redirect the drain lines with an some elbows to eventually line up with the framed wall.
Also, I'm assuming it would look best to move the supply lines inside the framing since I plan on putting drywall up. This a correct assumption?
Thanks in advance,
Nick
*Update* I personally feel it may be best just to leave as is and use elbows since moving or furring the wall will change the measurement of the toilet drain unless I did it on the laundry room side.
That all depends on you. Normally piping is hidden inside a wall where it is out of sight and protected from damage. In your case it was just easier to build the wall next to the piping unless they got their dimensions a bit off during construction and that's a load bearing wall that didn't line up properly with the plumbing. If you want to finish off the area you could build another wall to conceal the plumbing or move the existing wall (if you can) so the plumbing can exist inside the wall cavity, obviously a lot of work but the best way if you want to finish off the room. If you add another wall the room will get smaller but it's easier construction wise.
I'm still stuck on the first pic going into the ejector pump. Although I will be the first to admit my field is more on the electrical end I am curious as to the actual height of the sewer line going out of the house for the reason of the ejector pump but that raises the question as to the floor drains. Are you city sewer. Can there be a separate grey water system? The other concern would be making sure you have proper vents.
@palmcoast, The main sewer line is about halfway up from the floor in my main drain pit area. The drain lines travel up and right underneath the basement ceiling joists and then down into that main line. So it ultimately has to travel up which seemed to be the need for the ejector pump at the time and them not using all the plumbing fixtures in the rough in.
If it were me, I'd probably just build a second stud wall aligned with the plumbing, leave the existing wall, and lose the ~5" of room space. But if you want to just elbow the pipes into the wall, that's fine too.
I guess a small laundry pump was cheaper than a full ejector/macerating pump that would have been installed in the sump. But it sounds like you're almost good to go!
Glad you were able to figure it out, sometimes pictures aren't worth the 1000 words they are rumored to be
Thanks all for the help and advice. I think I will frame out a wall and do what you guys have suggested just to make it look cleaner anyway. It would help protect the drain lines anyway and give me better access if needed in the future.
As have been mapping this out, I was curious about venting. There is a vent line right above the laundry room. Here is my question.
Do I
1. only tie in the plumbing to the existing vent line and not vent the planned sewage pump
2. vent both the plumbing and pump into the existing vent in the ceiling
3. only vent it at the sewage pump/pit and that would be sufficient.
My thought is to do 1 or 2 and 3 wouldn't be a good idea since it wouldn't be properly vented and create issues.
Thanks for all the help.
*update* I think after reading more, 2 is the code answer so that's what I will go with unless I am missing something. I need to vent the bathroom into the ejector pit and then vent the pit into the house system.
Agreed, you should be venting the sink and the sump. Shower, toilet don't need to be separately vented as they drain directly into the sump pit.
If you have a washer or other standpipe, that should be vented too.
Hello everyone, wanted to get some feedback from everyone on this mapping of these drain lines. Couple of things to note.
1. I'm in Maryland which uses the IPC.
2. Everything expect the 3 in drain (labeled) is 2in lines sch 40.
3. I will have p traps on the end connectors but it was a pain to try and draw those.
4. This is just for the drain lines since running supply lines is much easier and straight forward in my opinion.
If anyone wouldn't mind looking at my layout and giving feedback I would appreciate it. Let me know if there's anything I missed, anything that's not to code or doesn't make sense. Thanks for all the help so far.
I'm looking for some help regarding hot water circulation in my house. House was built in 2005. It stopped working a couple of months ago, which happened to coincide with a kitchen remodel we did. The contractor had to shut off the water during the remodel as well as had to re-light the hot water heater, but say they didn't mess with the recirculation pump(Grundfos). I have no idea if this is the cause, just stating what changed.
It used to take 10 seconds in an upstairs shower. It now takes 60 seconds to get hot water.
Troubleshooting so far:
1. Ensured the timer was on and working
2. Pump vibrates and piping vibrates and is hot based on water flowing up as per flow of pump. Pump is hot, piping is hot above the pump.
3. Opened cap on Grundfos pump and can turn the pump, so it isn't frozen
4. The valves before and after the pump appear to be open. They are the same valve, but one seems to take more turns than the other. One of them appears to be 1/4 turn whereas the other takes 2-3 full turns.
5. I am not able to find a comfort valve installed anywhere, but did find that in the upstairs bathrooms, there are T fittings on the faucets upstairs that seem to hook up the hot and cold. It is unknown if a comfort valve was installed in the kitchen prior to the remodel. I went ahead and installed one in an upstairs bathroom to see if it would help. It reduced the time to getting hot water to 40 seconds. It seems to help, but not actually fix the problem.
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At this point, I'm stumped. The pump appears to be working, but I'm not 100% sure. Are there any other troubleshooting steps I should try before calling a plumber.
Recently the plastic tubing that supplies water to my refrigerator has started tapping when some valves are closed such as sinks, washing machine, and toilet. I thought it might be water hammering, but it also vibrates when some valves first open, not just when they are closed.. I'm seeing the same issue with the supply line that goes into my reverse osmosis system filter which is in a different location. Any ideas whats going on and the right way to fix this?
11-10-20, 06:39 AM
