I had to install new push valves on CPVC today after the old white push-pull ones leaked when operated.
I was worried cutting the stuff, so I resorted to using the rotating tube cutter in the pic, rather than the squeeze blade/ratchet one also pictured .
Everything worked out with the new valves installed, but I have some questions...
--Is it possible that using the blue handled cutter could break/splinter the old, 20+ years CPVC pipe, because it may be brittle? (This is why I chose the grey tube cutter.)
--Is there a downside to using the rotating tube cutter?
--The blue squeeze cutter instruction says to only use within 2" from the pipe end. Would that be to avoid collapsing the pipe when cutting? OR what?
--Do I need to still adhere to the 2" distance if the pipe end is inserted in a valve? Thanks!
You can use any or all of those tools to cut pipe, no idea what the 2" min distance is about, probably just safety for not cutting off a finger for something that small.
As long as the environment is stable, not too hot, not too cold, water temps the pipe should be fine!
"Is it possible that using the blue handled cutter could break/splinter the old, 20+ years CPVC pipe, because it may be brittle? (This is why I chose the grey tube cutter.)"
We have no idea what color your tools are. None of your photos show a blue handle cutter. You need to tell us what type of cutter you are using.
I have never heard of a cutter requiring that you use it within 2" of the pipe end. I suspect that was poorly translated and should have said to try and avoid using within 2" of the pipe's end. If you play around with some scrap pipe you'll see that they both can tend to crush the pipe if cutting near the end though with lighter pressure and more turns you can get around that with the wheel cutter.
-Is there a downside to using the rotating tube cutter?
My CPVC is 3/4 but I find the tube cutter to work just fine. I can't see a downside. I just go slow rotating and cutting a little at a time and I seem to get a nice square cut. I guess that's all you can ask for.
--The blue squeeze cutter instruction says to only use within 2" from the pipe end. Would that be to avoid collapsing the pipe when cutting?
That would be my guess also. I think in extremes to try and get a picture - lol. If the squeeze cutter was close to the end of the pipe it seems to me the pipe end after the cut would probably be kind of "crushed down". Could be wrong but that's the way it seems to me.
Just saw Pilot Dane's post. I didn't catch the word "within" - I assumed also what is really meant is NOT within 2 inches of the end.
But what if I am cutting close to a valve. Do I still need to go at least 2" out?
It wouldn't concern me cutting any length pipe with a ratcheting cutter (or a spin one for that matter). If the CPVC is so brittle that it shatters when you try to cut it, it probably isn't long for this world anyway.
The truth of the matter is you cut where you have to. Often you don't have the option to cut somewhere else no matter what the cutter instructions say.
Cutting several inches away from a valve or fitting is generally a good idea. It leaves enough pipe that you can easily reconnect to it. If you cut to close to a fitting or valve there may not be enough pipe to properly connect to so you can be forced to cut out a good fitting or valve in order to put everything back together.
Hey everyone, this item was purchased from Overstock it seems prior to us moving into the house.
Kraus 100-percent Steel Pullout Kitchen Faucet (single handle)
Problem we are having is no matter which way we turn the handle no warm or hot water comes out, all cold. I am looking to see if anyone knows if this possibly could be a cartridge issue or a faucet problem. All our other appliances in the area get hot water (bathroom nearby, dishwasher etc)
Photo's attached of Faucet for reference
Thank You for any and all help in advance!!
Warm Regards,
Bill
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So this is something I have never come across. My sons shower/tub drain is slow. I know the problem, long hair and soap, just like his sink drain that I cleaned out last summer.
I checked the trap, it is fully glued and the position of the trap is in the joist space but it's turned such that the trap is directly below the interior wall between the bath and the adjoining room where the access panel is located.
If I have to get to it either I will have to take up the carpet and remove a section of sub floor or open the ceiling of the laundry room below.
Another option is that I could cut the pipe from the tub overflow which would then get me in the pipe to the trap about 18" down to fish/snake the line?
I've have never used chemicals but have read enough to question their performance!