Hello. The sink in my kitchen has started to drain slowly and now I am noticing a minor leak underneath the p-trap.
My questions are:
1 - can the p-trap that I have (see picture) be replaced with a different one? I can’t seem to find the same one at Home Depot.
2 - what are the steps to changing this p-trap? Should I try unclogging it first?
3 - Any other suggestions?
Thank you in advance.
Yes. You would need to cut it off just past the p trap where the pipe has been painted white. (That paint will need to be completely cleaned off with sandpaper or cleaner.) You would then install a hub x sj adapter, gluing it onto the end that you cut. Then buy a 1 1/2" slip joint p trap kit, and install that into your adapter and onto your tailpiece.
Your current p trap will unscrew, there are fittings on each side of the trap that come apart.
Why not just remove it and try cleaning it out?
It does not even look like it's lined up with the tail pipe.
I can see someone has tried using pipe dope which never should have been needed if this was done right,
1. Yes, any trap can be replaced. But, why do you want to? Have you tried tightening the nut to get your leak to stop?
2. I still don't know why you want to replace the trap but the first step is to remove it and clean it out. It's a 5 minute job and 3 minutes of it is finding your wrench and a catch pan to put under the trap.
Your leaking is from misalignment. Traps are notorious to be plumbed properly. Clear the clog as others have said, re-align the tail piece going into the trap. A firm hand tight is all hat is necessary to seal a trap that is properly plumbed. BTW... what you have is a 1 1/4 standard bathroom sink drain converted to an 1/1/2 drain pipe. This seems to be more and more common among new builds and remodels.
Just a side note (all plumbing people will know this): all drains will always go from small to larger sizing as is drains away. Never go the opposite direction.
Thank you for your suggestions. It would appear one of the nuts (the lower one) has been glued on or something. It’s impossible to unscrew it. Any suggestions how to loosen it up without cutting the pipe off completely? Thanks.
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[i]The trap on the left is a drain under my water heater in a closet in the garage. The 1 1/2" pipe in the middle is the vent stack. The Ell on the right goes to the washing machine[/i]
My question is: Can that ell serve as a trap if it's lower than the end that connects to the vent? It's hard to tell in the picture because the ell is closer to the camera than the vent. Is this OK or should I install a 2" trap in place of the ell? This house was built in 2013, and apparently passed all of the inspections at the time. No modifications have been made. I was thinking of putting a spirit-level on the pipe between the ell and the vent to determine if it really constitutes a trap or not. We have not detected any sewer smell in the laundry room. But when the realtor showed us the house 3 years ago, the seller had Airwicks everywhere.
Hey everyone, this item was purchased from Overstock it seems prior to us moving into the house.
Kraus 100-percent Steel Pullout Kitchen Faucet (single handle)
Problem we are having is no matter which way we turn the handle no warm or hot water comes out, all cold. I am looking to see if anyone knows if this possibly could be a cartridge issue or a faucet problem. All our other appliances in the area get hot water (bathroom nearby, dishwasher etc)
Photo's attached of Faucet for reference
Thank You for any and all help in advance!!
Warm Regards,
Bill
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12-22-20, 08:56 PM
