Utility Sink Plumbing
#1
12-25-20, 08:25 AM
Utility Sink Plumbing
Hi everyone,
I'm a homeowner that would like to move my utility sink. I want to get advice on how to do the plumbing because I'm sure not the existing plumbing is correct.
Above Utility Sink
In the picture below, I am going to remove the wall and rotate the sink 90' clockwise so it is against the back concrete wall in my basement. The red arrow shows that I need to move all the plumbing against this concrete wall.
https://imgur.com/a/6aieERl
Is the current plumbing good? Can I just recreate this plumbing with Pex on the concrete wall?
Below Utility Sink
For the plumbing below the sink, I think something isn't correct. What is the correct way to do this plumbing? Here is the picture,
https://imgur.com/Bb4LCVG
Also, when I cleaned out this pipe, I can just pull it out of the floor. There is nothing holding it in there. I just can push and pull it out. That doesn't seem right. Below is circled where I am talking about.
https://imgur.com/KRXGLQW
Advice
Any advice would be helpful! I don't know any plumbers and I figured this is a small enough job that I can do.
I'm a homeowner that would like to move my utility sink. I want to get advice on how to do the plumbing because I'm sure not the existing plumbing is correct.
Above Utility Sink
In the picture below, I am going to remove the wall and rotate the sink 90' clockwise so it is against the back concrete wall in my basement. The red arrow shows that I need to move all the plumbing against this concrete wall.
https://imgur.com/a/6aieERl
Is the current plumbing good? Can I just recreate this plumbing with Pex on the concrete wall?
Below Utility Sink
For the plumbing below the sink, I think something isn't correct. What is the correct way to do this plumbing? Here is the picture,
https://imgur.com/Bb4LCVG
Also, when I cleaned out this pipe, I can just pull it out of the floor. There is nothing holding it in there. I just can push and pull it out. That doesn't seem right. Below is circled where I am talking about.
https://imgur.com/KRXGLQW
Advice
Any advice would be helpful! I don't know any plumbers and I figured this is a small enough job that I can do.
#2
12-25-20, 12:29 PM
Group Moderator
If your current water supply is working OK then "it's good enough". You can cut where you indicated and switch to PEX to relocate your sink.
As for the drain piping the trap is not correct. What you have is an S trap where modern code requires a P trap. Luckily it will be easy and natural for your new drain piping to have a proper P trap.
As for what's in your floor. NO, you should not be able to simply move the pipe up and down. Remove the escutcheon around the pipe for a better look at what you have in the floor. Ideally you want a connection that is both gas and water tight.
As for the drain piping the trap is not correct. What you have is an S trap where modern code requires a P trap. Luckily it will be easy and natural for your new drain piping to have a proper P trap.
As for what's in your floor. NO, you should not be able to simply move the pipe up and down. Remove the escutcheon around the pipe for a better look at what you have in the floor. Ideally you want a connection that is both gas and water tight.
#3
12-26-20, 06:30 PM
Sounds like you have the supply piping under control.
I'd recommend using a one-handle shutoff for the washer (not required, but makes it easier). Similar to this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...F3EB/205812092
If I were doing it, I would also replace those two valves with new PEX ball valves. Not 100% required, but those gate valves tend to degrade over time, and as long as you're redoing the plumbing there.
Lastly, you can make air chambers like that again if you want, or upgrade to a bladder type water hammer arrestor. Many people don't even use/need them, so you might even be able to do away with them completely.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Homewerk...4B-Z/304826698
As for the drain, it looks like it's an old cast iron drain in the floor which has a reducer stuck into it. You need to figure out what it is actually made of and either cement it, or figure out a correct seal.
I'd recommend using a one-handle shutoff for the washer (not required, but makes it easier). Similar to this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...F3EB/205812092
If I were doing it, I would also replace those two valves with new PEX ball valves. Not 100% required, but those gate valves tend to degrade over time, and as long as you're redoing the plumbing there.
Lastly, you can make air chambers like that again if you want, or upgrade to a bladder type water hammer arrestor. Many people don't even use/need them, so you might even be able to do away with them completely.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Homewerk...4B-Z/304826698
As for the drain, it looks like it's an old cast iron drain in the floor which has a reducer stuck into it. You need to figure out what it is actually made of and either cement it, or figure out a correct seal.
#4
12-28-20, 06:31 AM
Thanks Pilot Dan! For switching to PEX, do you have a good diagram for how the plumbing would look for PEX? Basically same as the setup for copper? Also, moving to a P trap will be easy as you said.
Thanks Zorfdt. Yes, I will replace that section with PEX and use an adapter from copper to PEX. The drain is PVC, I looked inside. So, I will just use the purpose plumber primer and cement to seal that pipe to the female connection in the ground.
Thanks Zorfdt. Yes, I will replace that section with PEX and use an adapter from copper to PEX. The drain is PVC, I looked inside. So, I will just use the purpose plumber primer and cement to seal that pipe to the female connection in the ground.
#5
12-28-20, 06:36 AM
I found this video that looks like a good setup for my utility sink and washer. I could put in a washer standpipe like in the video. I'm 20 feet from the main stack, so I will have to add a air vent like in this video.
https://imgur.com/a/vCfnTQ0
https://imgur.com/a/vCfnTQ0
#6
12-29-20, 11:19 AM
Since it's in a utility room, it's best to put the AAV at least 6" above the rim of the sink. Something like this:
You're allowed for them to be lower if in a cabinet, like in the kitchen. But higher is better (within reason).
You're allowed for them to be lower if in a cabinet, like in the kitchen. But higher is better (within reason).
#7
12-30-20, 12:13 PM
Thanks for that picture! Really helpful to visualize that. My floor drain is about 10" away from the concrete wall, so I'd have to do a bend, just like in that picture. Perfect.
