Do u guys trust them ??
I'm need to put a 1/4 shutoff on 3/4 pex for a humidifier. I'm limited on space I believe pex wants 3 inch on each side. Either way instead of me buying a crimper and cutter can I just use a sharkbite?
can I cut the pex with just a flat blade knife ?
I am testing "bite" fittings in my rental houses but I don't trust them in my own. They have only one rubber O ring inside that forms the seal and I'm not sure how that will hold up for 20, 40 or more years. I have had a few bite fittings fail. A couple were on pipe that was buggered up on the outside so that's obvious. The other failures have been when there is bending stress on the fitting. When used on clean pipe that's not being stressed I have not had one fail.
Yes, you can cut PEX with a knife. I sharp box cutter works well.
I don't know what you mean with the 3" but if you can get everything assembled and there is room for the crimper then you can do it. With bite fittings you need to have room to push everything together so not much different than the room PEX needs.
I have literally assembled hundreds of O ring joints with pressures up to 3000#. Properly designed and assembled static O ring joints are very reliable.
I have a dozen or so SharkBites in my unfinished basement. I have never had a failure but I am very meticulous when assembling them. Most of them are between 10-15 years old. I expect their life span to exceed my own. Every failure that I have heard of was because the assembly requirements were not met.
I am testing "bite" fittings in my rental houses but I don't trust them in my own
I like that!
First off, shark bite fittings are expensive, a solder joint cost pennies, and I simply feel a soldered copper fitting has a proven track record, I have seen to many failed o-rings, I like to sleep well at night!
As far as PEX, it's not better it's cheaper. Just look up polybutylene pipe, it was the rage in the late 70's, it failed!
I have to agree with CW on this. The key word here is "meticulous when assembling them". I would not use them inside a wall although they are accepted in most codes. As far as failure goes, I've have compression and soldered fitting fail. Failure is not exclusive to SharkBite's. The problem with crimped pex is once it's done (assuming it's crimped properly) you can't go back and re-use it. With soldered copper it's possible to clean and re-use pipe and fittings.
If I were a plumber I would not use SharkBites because of their cost. However, as a homeowner I don't see cost as an issue. The ease of install, time saved, and reliability make the cost worth it. Plus in some instances they are safer to install. Every year there are house fires caused by soldering copper pipe.
I have had more copper joint failures (3) than SharkBite failures (0).
My feeling is that any plumbing method you choose, they all need to be installed properly. Sweated connections are a pain if you don't properly clean it, Push-Fit connections (SharkBite) tend to leak if the pipes aren't straight into the fittings, etc.
I've been using SharkBite (and Bluefin push-fit) connectors for difficult locations or quick fixes and have been very happy with them. I've had 2 immediate failures, one was dripping when the pipes were crooked and not well supported, and the second, the o-ring got damaged from a rough pipe - but both were immediate leaks. While I wouldn't plumb a whole house with them, I have no issue using them when appropriate.
This is 3/4 pex-a . Found this chart that says there should be a minimum gap between connections??
look at these connections i have there not ure usual!?
I wanna put a 3/4 tee with 1/4 shut-off on the white pipe that the builder accidentally painted.....im trying to attach a pic but its too large and this site blocks image hosting argh
Even this site mentions a minimum gap between connections
https://www.plumbermag.com/how-to-articles/pex-plumbing-fittings-commercial/the-contractors-checklist-for-installing-commercial-pex-systems
As far as I know, the minimum distance is just so there's enough room for two fittings and pipe in between. You don't want the fittings touching, so I think that's where they come up with the minimum distances.
This is in my garage and the previous owner used screws [cut them off and used silicone to cover] to patch the PVC pipe. Looks like they tried to hang something previously and ran screws through the PVC drain pipe and then fixed. I took off the drywall patch on the wall because I wanted to take a look to see what was going on behind the wall. Glad I did because one of the screws was leaking a little bit behind the wall. What are everyone's thoughts on fixing this? Do I need to cut the section out to permanently fix this? I would like to put drywall back on the wall and paint but I want to make sure this is fixed. The screw holes are small.
I have read forums discussing using screws to patch [like the previous homeowner did], using JB water weld in the holes, and patching using a piece of PVC. Thoughts on fixing this? Thank You!
[img]https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/605x807/wall_issues_435b9970372a899f293b5972f453023fb89a3c38.jpg[/img]
I have quite a bit of water leakage in my garage from a spigot that was added next to a old water softener that is no longer used. It happens at least once a month. I’ve also noted that no major water usage was being done (showering, washing machine, dishwasher ect...) to cause this amount of water to be in my garage. Any ideas as to what may cause this and how I can repair problem.
01-07-21, 02:07 PM
