My 1” Watts regulator is failing and needs replacement (No rebuild kits available anymore). Looking at pictures, is there a direct “swop out” (screw out) possible, or do I need unsolder old one, and solder new one in?
I wouldn't worry so much about finding an exact replacement. You're going to have to cut pipe to install anything you get unless there is another Union fitting we're not seeing in the photo. Even if there is another union. Making another PRV fit is super easy as long as you have the tools to solder fittings.
So why is there a threaded coupling at top, if it cannot be unscrewed. They might as well just have soldered both sides then? Or am I missing some logic here?
If you can pull the PRV and it's pipe fare enough away from the wall you could unscrew it. For the cost and potential leaks of union fittings I don't use them. I just solder everything in place and cut the pipes when it needs replacing.
Shark Bite fittings are approved in most areas but they are expensive. In your situation I would sweat/solder the joints if you have the tools.
So why is there a threaded coupling at top, if it cannot be unscrewed.
It looks to me like that all comes apart. That ball valve is a Sharkbite and is easily removed with the removal tool. Then you can spin off the segment with the regulator. If it hits the wall I think you can remove the 4 screws and take off the bell.
I just remembered - I don't think you have to even remove the Sharkbite, they rotate.You should be able to just turn the pipe segment coming from the top of the Sharkbite without doing anything.
Maybe you could just replace the innards if worst comes to worst - or maybe it's not such a bad idea:
I’m installing a new tub and need to move the drain about a 24 for the new tub. One plumber said I needed to move the P trap so it’s directly under the drain. Another plumber said we could just run a extension to the existing P trap. I live in TN. Any idea what’s code? I
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