Installing new kitchen sink. I bought this P trap kit.Keeney 400PVCK PVC P-Trap Pipe Kit with Reducing Washer ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005J3WVNC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glc_fabc_qE3dGbJ4HHPKF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The pipe coming from the wall is quite long since the old sink was catty corner and this one is now perpendicular. I know I have to cut the pipe shorter, but how short? Also the wall tube (marked letter A) can slide all the way into the existing piping. How far into the pipe should the wall tube go into the adapter (marked B) then into the existing pipe? Does it matter how deep the wall tube is inserted into the pipe coming out from the wall? Thanks.
At a minimum, it needs to go into B far enough that the compression ring seals and so that it does not slip out. And it does not really matter how far past B it extends, with the exception that you do not ever want to to be so long that it jams itself into a tee or elbow, since that could obstruct the flow.
A good rule of thumb would be to be sure that A will extend fully into B. It does not "need" to be longer.
Piece your drain together and hold it up next to the pipe coming from the wall to see how much you need to cut off. When in doubt leave it longer because you can always cut it shorter if needed.
I like to leave pipe A at lease a couple inches longer than the distance to fitting B. This leaves adjustment in case you cut something wrong. You can always make it shorter if needed.
Thank you. What's a good length from the finished cabinet to cut the pipe coming out of the wall? The countertop isn't in yet so I can easily cut it now from overhead (it gives me more leverage than when the counters are installed).
Wait for the counter top and sink is installed then measure and cut. It may be a bit harder but you'll be sure of exactly how short to cut it.
And like stated before, make it slightly longer than needed but not so long that it hits the elbow.
The counter is 24", and the sink drain is centered approximately half of that. I usually rough out my drain to about 8" from the back of the cabinet. I usually also offset it 3-4" off center or so to the left or right as it makes the trap easier to assemble and adjust, but isn't necessary.
As others have suggested, I don't install the slip adapter until the sink is in and the trap is almost in. It's a pain to cut once the sink is in, but certainly doable.
Don't forget about caulking or adding a eustachian on the pipe where it goes through the cabinet.
can someone point me to a good source for info on removing water from foundation,
there is a lot of ground water under this house. It just keeps coming, doesn't have to have rained recently, there's like a spring underground or something.
There's no basement, house is on a slab with cinderblock foundation along the load bearing perimeter and probably cinderblocks in the middle under load bearing walls.
There's no basement sump pump to get this water to the street. Where I'd put the drainage pipe is below the level of the street, I'd like to run a pipe and send this water to the sewer. Need some sort of pop up or something?
I started digging around the house because crickets and the occasional mole were getting in, I mostly have to caulk the sill plate area, there were a few cracks in foundation near a 4" septic clean out and a large tree root (now removed) made a small crack somewhere. I started digging lower to make sure there were no deeper cracks in foundation where moles could get in.
Then I noticed at the corner the cinderblock is breaking away, and water was pouring out of holes/cracks in it, I'll pack it with hydraulic cement but I'm thinking having some weep holes is good to allow the water to escape.
I'm probably skipping the pipe on most of the house, probably not going to remove the paver patio etc for some areas probably aren't even needed, this is the very-wet side of the house.
Scenario
I have an indoor flow problem and I suspect the water softener but I am not sure. Anytime 2 fixtures are on I have a noticeable drop in the water pressure. I am looking for tips that would prevent me from tearing parts of my plumbing out.
The house is a 2018 build with all PEX plumbing, every fixture is fed by a dedicated 1/2 line and no 2 fixtures share a 1/2 line they all meet a 3/4. PEX is PEX A with expandable fittings. I have an AO Smith 35000 water softener. I installed the Softener myself and used PEX B with insert fittings there are about 5 3/4 bends with insert fittings. Well is a 3/4 hp I am unsure of the well depth but it is set to 40/60psi. Well incoming has immediate a 3/4 inch T off to to outside spigot and house. Well pump can build pressure fast, I can't open enough fixtures in the house or outside to where the pump can't keep up an cycle off.
What I have tested.
If I run anything outside with both spigot's with multiple hoses for example to water lawn I don't see this pressure drop in the house. This tells me it is not something with the well pump or pressure tank. When I set the Water Softener to Bypass I still see the same exact pressure drop. The pressure drop doesn't seem any different when the well is close to it's 60psi shut off vs 40 when it kicks on. I don't get why I see the same pressure drop with the softener bypassed. The Softeners specs only indicate a service flow rate of 7.5gpm @15psi which seems useless to me because I don't know what the service flow at 40-60psi is.
My Questions
The the softener so restrictive that even in Bypass it still restricts? I should install an actual 3/4 inch bypass before the softener with the proper shut offs to test? Could it be the 5 insert style PEX fittings? Could it be something else? I would suspect the PEX fittings or softener would be a restriction if I opened 4 or 5 fixtures but not 2. Oh and if I run 4 things at once my water turns to a trickle.
01-25-21, 06:09 PM
can someone point me to a good source for info on removing water from foundation,
there is a lot of ground water under this house. It just keeps coming, doesn't have to have rained recently, there's like a spring underground or something.
There's no basement, house is on a slab with cinderblock foundation along the load bearing perimeter and probably cinderblocks in the middle under load bearing walls.
There's no basement sump pump to get this water to the street. Where I'd put the drainage pipe is below the level of the street, I'd like to run a pipe and send this water to the sewer. Need some sort of pop up or something?
I started digging around the house because crickets and the occasional mole were getting in, I mostly have to caulk the sill plate area, there were a few cracks in foundation near a 4" septic clean out and a large tree root (now removed) made a small crack somewhere. I started digging lower to make sure there were no deeper cracks in foundation where moles could get in.
Then I noticed at the corner the cinderblock is breaking away, and water was pouring out of holes/cracks in it, I'll pack it with hydraulic cement but I'm thinking having some weep holes is good to allow the water to escape.
I'm probably skipping the pipe on most of the house, probably not going to remove the paver patio etc for some areas probably aren't even needed, this is the very-wet side of the house.
