I am in the process of installing a new washing machine and found my hot water valve in the wall assembly behind the appliance is very hard to turn and does not actually turn off the water. I have a valve in the basement that is a secondary control for this one faucet. I can not reasonably remove the entire faucet as it would involve destroying the plastic drain assembly in the wall. I fully unscrewed the 3/4 nut just under the round handle but the stem would not pull out. Do I have to remove the 1-1/8 nut just below to disassemble and replace the washer for this valve? Thanks

As the title says, my 3" main stack is made of 60 year old copper and is leaking due to rot. I need to replace the entire section which unfortunately connects to my kitchen sink and first floor toilet. While it would be easy for me to simply replace what is there, I'd like to do it to code. The toilet is drained with a 90 degree elbow, which then connects to the main stack via sanitary tee. The entire run from toilet to stack is about 2 feet. In between is a 1.5" vent tee which runs horizontally for a foot and then vertically. 1. Is there a need to install a clean-out in lieu of the 90 elbow? 2. Given the short run from toilet to main stack, is a vent even needed? 3. If a vent [i]is [/i]needed, should I reorient the 1.5" vent tee so that the tee faces vertical rather than horizontal? The final result would be something like [url=https://theplumbinginfo.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/useful-diagram-to-use.jpg]this[/url] (without the trap). The kitchen sink is connected with 1.5" ABS. The entire run is about 5 feet and connects to the main stack via Wye tee. It is not connected to a vent. 4. Do I need to connect this run to a vent? 5. Can I swap the Wye tee for a sanitary tee?