CPVC valve is under the kitchen sink and look like this. It's causing mild dripping on the outside spigot. Since the valve is about 18 years old, I had no luck finding the washer and O-ring that are identical to what's inside the valve. The valve is 2.5 inches in length from end to end. I think the only option is to replace it with a slip ball valve (https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-247...828561258&th=1)

My concern is once I cut out the existing CPVC valve, and I push in the slip ball valve on to one end, how do I push in on the other end? I tried to gently swivel the CPVC pipe, and it doesn't seem to have enough slack. It will be very bad to push in the slip ball valve on one end, and not being able to push in on the other end. Your advices will be very appreciated. Another question is the CPVC valve is closed, and outside spigot open for the winter. If the dripping on the outside spigot freezes, can it cause damage on the pipes inside the wall? If it does, that makes addressing this very urgent.

 

Get one with a union built in or put in a union on the straight section!

 

Can I please get more detail about what you mean by "Get one with a union built in or put in a union on the straight section!"? Do you have a link where I can buy the kind of water valve with a union built in, or a picture?

 

If you youtube search your sharkbite replacement there will probably be a video of someone installing that valve on a similar pipe. If I recall, sharkbite valves like that go on one way where the valve slides on an extra inch or so onto the pipe on one side. Then you bring the other side in line and pull the valve fitting back down onto the second side of the pipe to make the final connection, and then you are done.

 

I don’t know what you mean by swivel the CPVC pipe. But as OptsyEagle noted in previous post you need to be able to spread those pipes in order to insert a Sharkbite or a CPVC coupling. With those escutcheons at the wall, covering the openings, it’s hard to tell how much, if any, you can spread the pipes. If you use unions you can cut the existing pipe and be certain everything can go together properly.

The diagram is just one way to do it so you will be able to easily change a valve in the future if need be. You would just need to carefully measure the length of the new segment and cut the old pipe at the correct places. Therefore, you wouldn’t need to worry about spreading the pipes.

 

Just for a bit more clarification, the unions are disassembled and installed so that the flats internal (with 0-ring) mate up flush.

Just be sure to get both halves of the the union preinstalled correctly before gluing it all together.

Same basic concept it you use a valve with built in unions!