Hey all. Bought a new wall hung double vanity and after seeing the placement flexibility I decided I want it higher up than the "normal" height.

I need to relocate all the water and drain lines about a foot diagonally upward.

So. Never really done any plumbing and kinda wanna try but definitely not soldering. Was thinking sharkbite push fit/pex for their ease of use and diy friendliness.

Where I'm stuck is the water arrestors. Under my sink, there are EIGHT of them. Two at the top each hot/cold line = 4. And then another set of 4 before and after each connection. Do I really need that many? There's some conflicting google info.

Water arrestors for push fit are damn expensive (around 35 bucks each?).

Hoping I don't need them at all, but if I do,. Maybe just 2? I feel like beyond that it might be cheaper to just hire a plumber lol.

Note that this is the master bath so I'm guessing the same lines supply water to the shower/tub/toilet too and there's likely additional arrestors in those locations?

 

You got to post a picture, never have I seem more than one arrestor per line at any one location!

I cant even begin to understand how you could stuff that many under a sink

 

Wow, 8 arrestors. I wonder what they were thinking when they were putting on the third and fourth on each line? Yes, a picture would be great.
I would take those out and have just one per line as you state. Also make sure the undersink water valve is fully open for the water lines.
Sharkbites are good, and rated for behind wall application. Make sure you debur the lines and mark the install depth before installing the fittings.

 

Also, I dont know why anything would need to be moved just because the sink will be higher. Just need longer supply lines, longer drain lines.

 

Hmmm. Maybe my understanding of an arrestor is flawed but I'm referring basically to "capped off" vertical copper pipes that don't connect to anything.

Regarding the question of needing to move anything... Is there a simpler way? The new wall hung vanity has a square opening under each sink. These don't line up center (not even close). If I simply add extension hoses, won't they stick out or be in the way of the vanity being pressed up against the wall??



Two are at the far left. There's extra sticking out from each of the 4 supply lines, and 2 you can't see in the picture tucked away in the insulation areas.

 

Ok, after your reactions I did some google image searching and it seems the "capped off" pipes are not really arrestors, but literally just capped off pipes... From excess plumbing when maybe a previous owner had things changed???

But if that's true then I have ZERO arrestors... That doesn't "feel" right either?? Is that normal?
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That's interesting!

So the purpose of an "air chamber" or a "arrestor" is to remedy water hammer which is typ the result of a quick closing valve like a washing machine, that is the only place I have every found the need. Faucets are not considered quick closing but every plumbing condition is different so who knows but eight air chambers seems a stretch.

It does look like there was some post plumbing work, either for the bath or for something else in the house. Are they hurting anything, probably not, do you need them, probably not but if no other work was done why would someone go to the trouble to install?

 

Marq so when I moved in here the vanity in the master bath was not in good shape, but it was also not the "builder" version (or it was at least modified to look different). Guessing place was built, and at least one of the previous owners (or multiple!) Made some "tweaks". Glad to know all this extra piping is not needed though it'll help me in terms of my DIY.

Sooo... Here's the plan, let me know if it seems okay.

1. I am going to remove ALL of the copper piping.

2. After that, I will add sharkbite and pex in the 4 line locations where I need it.

3?? arrestors don't strictly seem to be needed based on @Marqs comment. But I'm thinking I'd rather just pay the ~60 ish dollars and add one to each line (hot/cold).

Is there an ideal location for them based on my picture? I was thinking of making the arrestors the starting point of my DIY pex in the lower left corner.

Basically copper supply line lower left >> sharkbite arrestor >> pex rest of the way.

Hope that makes sense, and thank you so much for the help!

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Arrestors just need to be near the point of use, personally I don't think you need them for a bathroom and at that cost, they could be added later when and if needed.

Also be aware there are people, myself included, that would not put a shark bite fitting in a wall. It's personal but they are mechanical and anything mechanical can fail.

 

Thanks marq. I read quite a few conflicting opinions on both topics so I think I'll roll the dice lol.

No arrestors (none there now anyway) save the $$

Dropping in the pex and sharkbite.

After the pex install I can simply turn on the water to test for leaks before sealing the wall and installing vanity right? If there's no immediate leak, high probability of long term success is what I'm thinking.

 

Don't do it. If you're willing to spend extra money on arrestors that aren't needed then hire a plumber or learn how to solder copper or use all pex.

 

It just so happens that my bathtub line froze (thought it was a clog) so ended up calling a plumber...

Plumber wanted 300 dollars just to relocate the two PVC pipes... Which is ridiculous.

I completed the copper pipe swap to sharkbite and pex, haven't tested all 4 connections for leaks yet but so far no issues!

Need some tips for the PVC side of things.

From the picture I posted - I need to relocate the sink drains up and left (diagonally about a foot on both sides).

What's the best way to do this? PVC is not flexible enough to properly add the new joints since they are to be inserted... Not quite sure how to go about this.

 

Left end point of the red line is the new position. Planning to cut the pvc, drill holes in the wood, rotate.

Adding updated picture for reference. After cutting the pvc I feel like I will have a hard time squeezing in the replacement parts. I know they make rubber boot things and such which would make this easier, but I dunno if that's ideal, gotta be better options?

 

That's what Ferncos are made for... repairs when you need to fit pipe between 2 immovable sections. You will loosen the clamps and slip the repair Fernco up your cut vent pipe about 6"... (lube it all up with some ky jelly first) and once all connections are done, you should have pipe to pipe as tight as possible, then bring the Fernco down halfway over the seam and tighten it up.

You raise it 6" or so in order to glue in pipe above your san tee, so that you are joining pipe to pipe with the Fernco. The top of the Fernco will be about at the top of your drywall cutout.

 

Just a suggestion. Any non hard piping (Furnco, Sharkbites, compression fittings etc...). do yourself a favor and make the drywall a removable access panel. You'll thank yourself (and me, lol) years down the road.

 

@sleeper is this the type of setup you're referring to? Slide it on, add in the replacement pvc (but instead of "inserting" I would have them sit aligned and on top of each other) and then slide this down centered on the seam? If I got that right, brilliant!

Would I still use pvc cement at the "unsecure" seams before sliding the rubber coupling over it?

Everconnect coupling
@Norm I'm more of an optimist 😂 but since I have to eventually add the drywall anyway, removable panel is a solid idea to consider! I'll get to that, do some googling, and ask for help once I get to that phase!

 

Yes, the old and new pipe just sit together, with maybe an 1/8" gap between them. No, you do not glue the cut ends of pipe together. In your case you want the Fernco above the waste line, and as high on the vent line as possible. It won't see any water or clogs that way. And the lube is a trick... without it you will curse a lot, because they don't slide easily.

 

Thanks! And yes I was already visualizing the headache of sliding that rubber around so appreciate the lube tip lol