Wondering if it makes a difference if I use 90 degree elbows for connecting to an existing 1.5" vertical vent or if I should use 45's (or if it depends on what type of fixture I'm serving).
Also need to know if I need to use a combo eye for a washing machine vent connection or if a regular wye will be fine. I know a San tee is not acceptable.
Code is pretty flexible with fittings used on vents. A short-90 degree is fine on a vent, but not allowed on a drain - as there's not much to get 'stuck' in a vent. Typically a 90 would be used on a vent as its fewer connections and less work, but no issue if you want to use two 45s.
A san tee can be used on a vent for attaching a horizontal vent into a vertical vent stack. San tees can never be used 'on their back' with the straight portion being horizontal.
Do I need a long sweeping elbow/combo wye on the horizontal drain to vent connection for the washer? Here is my proposed layout. I posted a couple days ago but haven't gotten a response yet:
Gonna go with this layout. Only one hole through the stud and two less elbows in the washer vent. I don't see the point of a long sweeping wye fitting for the washer vent since it is just air flowing through, so I guess I'll just go with a regular wye.
Almost finished with the drains and vent. I screwed up and installed the upper vent santee upside down, but considering air doesn't care which way is up or down I think I'm just going to leave it.
I fixed the vent so the fitting is facing the proper direction. Glad I did because I had pushed existing vent pipe up too far anyway and created a negative slope. It's good now. Once my 10/3 cable arrives, I'll be doing sound proofing and fire stopping. This is what I ended up with. If I had to do it again I would have routed the hot water line to the washer a little differently to avoid the 45's but it doesn't interfere with the sheet rock so it's fine.
Don't forget nailing plates. You'll definitely need them where the ABS/PVC goes through the base plate and stud. And likely where the PEX goes through. If the pex is at least 1-1/4" from the face of the stud, you don't need one, but it's cheap insurance in case someone puts a too-long screw or nail in.
Hi all
I just installed an expansion tank and I'm wondering if its working properly. I'm not sure I entirely trust my water pressure gauge and air gauge. I set the air to 60 psi and my water pressure is 61 PSI (according to my gauges). I turned everything on and there is no water in the expansion tank at all from what I can feel. I connected it with a flexible braided steel hose so I can pick it up. Doesn't feel cold on inlet side from water and just as light as out of the box. How much water should be in there at regular house pressure without hot water expansion happening? I guessed a third or half but I've got none.
Thanks!
This always is a good reminder during these polar vortexes... but if you are going to experience record cold temperatures overnight, turn your faucets so that they slowly drip. The water flowing through the pipe will usually be warm enough to prevent the pipe from freezing.
Opening cabinet doors to any sinks that are on exterior walls (typically kitchen sinks) is also a good idea.
-28F here last night... a little colder than normal.
And if your pipes do freeze, keep in mind that you can have a real mess on your hands if the pipe splits and breaks. Water expands when it freezes, so pipes cannot handle repeated freeze/thaw cycles. Even a small crack will cause quite a mess once it thaws out and starts spraying water.
02-10-21, 08:44 AM
