So I have a burst pipe in the garage, the line that feeds the exterior hose bib. I have a temporary repair for now, and eventually when this cold weather passes, I’ll get a permanent solution. As you can see from the picture, the burst occurred in a branch of the pipe that dead ends, away from the spigot. Why did they design it like this? Is it to prevent the water hammer effect?
when I repair it, should I ensure that a length of the copper pipe extends beyond the stud to an end cap, as it was designed previously?
Since it is horizontal it would not work as a water hammer arrestor. Looks like they just extended it through the stud for support.
If the vertical section just right of the patch is the connection to the outside spigot there does not appear t be any way to drain the line for freeze prevention. You could add a spigot at the end of the line when you repair it for that purpose. That assumes that there is a shut off valve in the supply line in a heated area.
So I managed to get a hold of a plastic shark bite knock off, sealed the leak up just fine. My question is, will this hold permanently, and is it up to code? Please see picture
Hey all. Bought a new wall hung double vanity and after seeing the placement flexibility I decided I want it higher up than the "normal" height.
I need to relocate all the water and drain lines about a foot diagonally upward.
So. Never really done any plumbing and kinda wanna try but definitely not soldering. Was thinking sharkbite push fit/pex for their ease of use and diy friendliness.
Where I'm stuck is the water arrestors. Under my sink, there are EIGHT of them. Two at the top each hot/cold line = 4. And then another set of 4 before and after each connection. Do I really need that many? There's some conflicting google info.
Water arrestors for push fit are damn expensive (around 35 bucks each?).
Hoping I don't need them at all, but if I do,. Maybe just 2? I feel like beyond that it might be cheaper to just hire a plumber lol.
Note that this is the master bath so I'm guessing the same lines supply water to the shower/tub/toilet too and there's likely additional arrestors in those locations?
I have a bathtub drain that is draining too slowly, I've tried a few actions, see below, not getting any improvement in drain flow. With 5 gallons of standing water in the tub, when I push the drain lever down it still takes a full 60 seconds for that water to drain, no difference.
[b]Chemical Actions:[/b] I've used several treatments that I have poured down the drain, let them sit for a 30 mins to 2 hours, and then flush them out with warm water, including a ZEP enzyme treatment, Pequa, straight Vinegar. No difference.
[b]Auger:[/b] I then used a power auger with a 1/2" head on it and bent the head a little so it spins a little wider than the 1/2" and power augered down the drain (using a power drill) for a length of 3 feet. I felt no clog resistance, and when I pulled it out there was no debris stuck in the head.
Any good ideas of something else I can try? Or could this just be the normal rate of water draining? Would the rate of flow be faster if I enlarged the drain holes in the drain cover a bit?
Thank you!
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02-17-21, 10:34 AM
