When I coil up my garden hose when finished using it, there is an amount of water left in the hose. Pressure is removed after turning off the water, nozzle is removed before coiling. As I coil it water is exited from the discharge end. I keep the hose connected to the faucet but the faucet is shut tight (no leaks). The hose is coiled onto a wall hanger maybe about 20 coils 1 to 1 1/2 feet in diameter. I must place a bucket under the open end because within a day any latent water within the hose will be expelled in to the bucket, nearly filling it and leaving the garage floor soaking wet and pooling at the doors. I know it has to do with a syphoning effect but can't quite explain it. How is left over water rounding every loop to exit into the bucket? Is it air pressure/vacuum?
I've always wondered about that to, intuitively, you'd think eventually there would be a vacuum break that would stop the flow.
Either way, to prevent this, I just take the end of the hose and run it up through an opening in the holder (like that trapezoidal thing in yours) and as long as it is even (or so) with the top of the coil, no water comes out. (Nice floor BTW)
The weight of water (and the lack of a passage from the open end for air to replace the water being drained) keeps a syphon going. Change in air pressure, contraction of hose either from memory, squeezing by other coils or temperature change gets the water started and gravity takes over. In order to prevent vacuum there must be a source of air behind the syphoning water. If there is an anti-syphon device on your faucet that will provide it.
Guy's the faucet does not leak. Absolutely positive on that. I keep the other end always attached for quick ease of use. I always release the pressure at the nozzle end and keep it open. Then I roll up whatever amount used and let the water run out as I roll it up. However the remaining water in the coiled up section always finds it's way to the outlet and dumps in the bucket. I think 2john nailed in in post # 3.
I kind of compared it to a vent pipe that might be clogged and water will drain or syphon from the toilet trap.
Marq, the section of hose shown in the picture is in the section of attached garage that extends beyond the house. And on occasion it will freeze in extreme cold. But the faucet is well within the house proper area and just the hose bib protrudes into the garage wall from the basement. When I first installed that hot and cold spigots I never even thought about winter freezing. That 1st winter I had quite the flood in the garage.
I gave away all my vinyl hoses and bought those ZERO-G hoses. Those are fantastic. Very light and easy to move and use. Maybe a slight reduction on flow.
Hello all. I am starting a reno of our master bathroom (2nd story) and have all original tile, shower pan, etc removed and have received all new materials. I am using a KBRS linear drain tile basin and the drain body is ABS with a 2" tail piece. The existing drain piping is 2" PVC. Per my local code, I cannot solvent weld dissimilar plastics, which I really didn't intend on doing in the first place, so I wanted to confirm the plan that I have come up with.
As this is on the 2nd floor and I have bare subfloor, I intend on cutting out a portion of the subfloor to get to the existing PVC p-trap and drain pipe. From what I gather from PA Allegheny County code, which makes for good reading if you need to go to sleep, is that I need to use a mechanical joint to join the ABS to the PVC. So I plan on replacing the existing 2" PVC p-trap and a portion of the PVC drain pipe with 2" ABS and then using a Fernco Proflex P3000-22 shielded coupling in that horizontal run after the ABS p-trap to join the ABS to the PVC. On top of the p-trap I plan on installing a 2" ABS coupling to allow me to then solvent weld the linear ABS drain body tail piece to the drain line.
I appreciate any comments or confirmation on what I plan on doing will meet code. Thanks!
I am repiping my house from boly b to pex. I am on my last fixture on the second floor. It is a bathtub with no shower. The diverter valve has pol b connections that appear to be soldered onto the threads. I was hoping to re-use the diverter. Any way to remove the poly b connections and replace with pex connections? Photo attached.
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04-04-21, 07:44 AM
Science physics question
Just an observation.
Just an observation.
