Hello
I am putting in a under mount sink with new counter tops.
Since the sink will sit lower than the orig. I need to lower the drain.
The drain that is cast as well.
What do I do for taking out this old drain and putting one in lower?
I know I will need to support the stack above where I am working.
What do I use to cut the cast?
Will a metal blade on a reciprocating saw work?
Thanks
James
I normally use a fine tooth metal cutting blade in a reciprocating saw. Get several because once the blade dulls cutting get's really slow. A cutoff wheel or grinder also works but throws sparks which can be a fire hazard and makes smoke (ever smell burned poo juice?) so it's more of a mess inside a home.
Also, make sure you support the weight of the cast iron & steel pipe above so it doesn't drop when you cut out a section.
I would definitely use a grinder and 1/16" cutoff wheel for as much of the cut as possible. Leaving less to sawzall. A standard fine toothed sawzall blade will burn up almost immediately, but the ones with medium sized teeth (for thicker metal) last longer, especially if you cut slowly and lubricate the cut with oil. As mentioned,, there are also blades specifically for cast, such as the Milwaukee Torch (carbide) or better yet, the Milwaukee Torch (with nitrous carbide). But they are quite expensive compared to ordinary blades.
When buying sawzall blades, you get what you pay for. Milwaukee Torch brand is one of the best.
Earlier this evening I removed the P trap from our bathroom sink to fix it draining slowly. All went well until it put the P trap back, try as I might, I cannot get the joint at the shorter end to stop leaking (not the joint connected to the sink, but the joint where it goes into the wall pipe).
I've removed it and made sure it's seated nicely, tightened it as much a I can, but there's still a slight drip. One thing I noticed is it appears whoever initially installed it used what looks like plumbers putty. There's a grey/brown paste that looks deteriorated on the P trap. I'm wondering, should that be there, is it possible it deteriorating is causing the joint not to seat fully, so just enough for it to drip. Can i clean it and use new putty? I didn't see a washer anywhere, maybe that's missing and someone used putty instead.
Looking closely, it looks like theres no washer, there's a flange on the 90° pipe that goes into the wall, but it doesn't go all the way around and I think that's why it's leaking. The putty may have been put in to cover that piece and stop a leak. See the picture, the flange is missing a chunk...
Thanks.
[img]https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/604x806/20210409_205910_82d0777377f53aebcb599c4545edd4a5414269a4.jpg[/img]
Spring yardwork and I needed my hose out front. Tried turning the silcock and could not budge it. Endied up cracking the plastic handle, then it got worse as after removing the packing nut, I could not even turn the valve stem with visegrips and destroyed the female threaded end of the brass stem.
Now, I know I have replaced the stems on both of my frost free silcocks in the front and rear of the house, however I do not recall if they threaded in or not. Shouldn't I be able to get this stem out even though I have damaged to outside end of it? Could it possibly be seized inside of my house?
Best case scenario, I can get this out, search for a replacement stem and install a new handle (mine are grey plastic). I hate to have to get a plumber to replace the entire silcock.
04-06-21, 03:16 PM
