Ancient outdoor tap replacement
#1
05-30-21, 06:35 AM
Ancient outdoor tap replacement
Hi all,
This ancient outdoor tap needs to be replaced; however, I'm not sure how to go about removing this one and adding a new one, since it seems to be soldered on? Not sure. Any advice for removal and what to install next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Top Answer
05-30-21, 06:57 AM
Group Moderator
In Canada, you would surely want to replace it with a long frost free spigot due to your fold temps, and it would be equipped with a modern vacuum breaker... which is typically code everywhere.
You will want open access to the ceiling below this pipe inside. You will shut your water main off at the meter and cut the pipe back inside and remove the spigot. Then you would likely will want to get both a first free spigot, 12" long or so and a 1/4 turn ball valve shutoff (optional, but usually a good idea), and probably a male NPT fitting.
The male NPT fitting will go on the cut end of your copper, then the shutoff, then the spigot. The pipe will get cut inside with a tubing cutter. Then you would solder on the new NPT fitting. Of course figuring out exactly where to cut will minimize the work as far as getting the length right so as to avoid adding any new pipe.
There are sharkbite fittings and shutoff that don't require soldering, but many guys would typically only use those in an area that was open (visible), since they may eventually fail and need replacement many years down the road.
You will want open access to the ceiling below this pipe inside. You will shut your water main off at the meter and cut the pipe back inside and remove the spigot. Then you would likely will want to get both a first free spigot, 12" long or so and a 1/4 turn ball valve shutoff (optional, but usually a good idea), and probably a male NPT fitting.
The male NPT fitting will go on the cut end of your copper, then the shutoff, then the spigot. The pipe will get cut inside with a tubing cutter. Then you would solder on the new NPT fitting. Of course figuring out exactly where to cut will minimize the work as far as getting the length right so as to avoid adding any new pipe.
There are sharkbite fittings and shutoff that don't require soldering, but many guys would typically only use those in an area that was open (visible), since they may eventually fail and need replacement many years down the road.
#2
05-30-21, 06:49 AM
Member
It does appear to be a soldered connection. Is it leaking, i.e. won't shut off completely? Looks like that might be the case since you have a secondary shutoff installed. If you are not familiar with soldering (and even if you are) you could unscrew the bonnet nut, remove the stem by unscrewing in the ON direction and replace the stop washer. If that does not solve the problem you might have to get an inexpensive re-seating tool to smooth out the surface that the washer seats to. TURN OFF THE WATER at the shut off valve inside before doing any work on the faucet!!
Indys
voted this post useful.
#3
05-30-21, 06:51 AM
Member
Why does it need to be replaced? If it leaks it can be fixed. It looks like a threaded unit but if you say soldered, so be it. It also so looks like iron pipe. If so, you need to find the coupling at some point inside the house and remove from that point. Or cut it and re-thread the pipe.
There are galvanized pipe compression fitting available, called DRESSER fittings that use a compression ring with a gasket.
There are galvanized pipe compression fitting available, called DRESSER fittings that use a compression ring with a gasket.
Indys
voted this post useful.
#4
05-30-21, 06:57 AM
Group Moderator
In Canada, you would surely want to replace it with a long frost free spigot due to your fold temps, and it would be equipped with a modern vacuum breaker... which is typically code everywhere.
You will want open access to the ceiling below this pipe inside. You will shut your water main off at the meter and cut the pipe back inside and remove the spigot. Then you would likely will want to get both a first free spigot, 12" long or so and a 1/4 turn ball valve shutoff (optional, but usually a good idea), and probably a male NPT fitting.
The male NPT fitting will go on the cut end of your copper, then the shutoff, then the spigot. The pipe will get cut inside with a tubing cutter. Then you would solder on the new NPT fitting. Of course figuring out exactly where to cut will minimize the work as far as getting the length right so as to avoid adding any new pipe.
There are sharkbite fittings and shutoff that don't require soldering, but many guys would typically only use those in an area that was open (visible), since they may eventually fail and need replacement many years down the road.
You will want open access to the ceiling below this pipe inside. You will shut your water main off at the meter and cut the pipe back inside and remove the spigot. Then you would likely will want to get both a first free spigot, 12" long or so and a 1/4 turn ball valve shutoff (optional, but usually a good idea), and probably a male NPT fitting.
The male NPT fitting will go on the cut end of your copper, then the shutoff, then the spigot. The pipe will get cut inside with a tubing cutter. Then you would solder on the new NPT fitting. Of course figuring out exactly where to cut will minimize the work as far as getting the length right so as to avoid adding any new pipe.
There are sharkbite fittings and shutoff that don't require soldering, but many guys would typically only use those in an area that was open (visible), since they may eventually fail and need replacement many years down the road.
#5
05-30-21, 07:08 AM
Thanks, everyone.
It needs to be replaced because the handle is broken and is very difficult to turn, and yes, the faucet leaks.
I like the idea of replacing with a frost-free spigot and using sharkbites, since I'm terrible at soldering. Pipes are exposed inside the basement, so not worried about hidden leaks if sharkbites fail.
It needs to be replaced because the handle is broken and is very difficult to turn, and yes, the faucet leaks.
I like the idea of replacing with a frost-free spigot and using sharkbites, since I'm terrible at soldering. Pipes are exposed inside the basement, so not worried about hidden leaks if sharkbites fail.
#6
05-30-21, 07:54 AM
Member
Handle can be replaced. New packing at the gland nut will help with an easier and smoother turning and a new washer will repair it like new. Maybe the seat will need to be reamed. Sure beats a major plumbing job.
I live in Buffalo, NY area. Never had or needed a frost free hose bib. In winter I turn off inside isolation valve and open the outside hose bib valve. However, if I was to build new or do a plumbing repair I would in fact go with the frost free.
I live in Buffalo, NY area. Never had or needed a frost free hose bib. In winter I turn off inside isolation valve and open the outside hose bib valve. However, if I was to build new or do a plumbing repair I would in fact go with the frost free.
Indys
voted this post useful.
#7
05-30-21, 10:17 AM
Since it is accessible inside why not forego the frost free and just buy a standard hose bib? On the inside you can add a ball valve for isolation during the winter. Unlike frost free hose bibs a set up with an isolation valve will be trouble free. They are inexpensive and available with push fit (Shark Bite) type connections.
2john02458
voted this post useful.
#9
05-31-21, 06:58 AM
Member
If you use a Sharkbite valve inside be aware that it will rotate on the pipe. You will have to use a spigot with a flange that fastens to the outside surface to prevent rotating. Yours looks like rough concrete, stucco, or stone so you may need to use anchors or TapCons.
Sharkbite hose bibs have a flange.
Sharkbite hose bibs have a flange.
#10
06-01-21, 10:18 AM
2john02458 - I have 3 sharkbite ball valves in my basement. Two are 1/2" isolation for my hose bibs and one is a 3/4" whole house shut off. I just checked and none of them rotate on the pipe.
#11
06-01-21, 11:56 AM
Member
I think what John was referring to is that Sharkbites can rotate for positional purposes. But it's not a good idea to let them do it on a regular basis. A hose bib is the kind of appliance that can get twisted and is turned on and off many times. You want to prevent the possibility of twisting or turning as that will eventually ruin the "o" ring seal.
#12
06-01-21, 01:47 PM
So 2John02458 you were right. I went back to the basement and tried again to rotate the sharkbite valves and I can turn them on the pipe but it took quite a bit of force. But I don't see that as a problem. They are probably 15 years old and 100% problem free and have never moved. That's unlike the frost free valves that they replaced that seemed to last only a couple of years.
Norm the solution to the issue you mentioned is simple - just position the valves where they don't see and rotational force from the bib being turned on and off.
Norm the solution to the issue you mentioned is simple - just position the valves where they don't see and rotational force from the bib being turned on and off.
#13
06-01-21, 02:13 PM
Member
I was speaking from experience. I had a Sharkbite isolating valve on a flanged hose bib. Outside was no problem but when I operated the overhead inside handle from below the valve would rotate on the pipe. So I was extrapolating to the possibility of a unflanged hose bib (as shown in the original picture) causing the same. Having a valve in place for 15 years probably allowed the "O" ring to fuse to the pipe enough to make rotation harder.
I agree that frost free spigots are troublesome.
I agree that frost free spigots are troublesome.
