I may get some terms wrong, just bear with me. I currently have an outdoor faucet that developed a leak. Figured it can't be too hard to replace. I took a quick look inside and saw I'll need a long one, which is fine. Upon close inspection, I hit a snag. It looks like it's not threaded in but instead soldered? Is there an easy way to replace this without needing to hire someone that is better at soldering than I am?
They make frost -free spigots in different lengths. I would either use one with shark-bite or a compression fitting and cut the existing pipe to the correct length.
Nice! It looks like the Skar-Bite system is easy enough. Just need the new spigot, pipe cutter, some muscle, and I'll be back up and running. Hopefully, I don't run into too many issues. Thanks for the help!
In addition, they make repair kits for some of those frost-free sillcocks. They are easy enough to take apart and replace. You take off the handle and a nut and the entire stem pulls right out and can be replaced very easily. It looks like this:
Anyway, if it’s just dripping out of the spigot you might be able to fix it with repair parts like the above – if they have repair parts for yours that is. Anyway, the entire stem is a little expensive but maybe repair is something to think about.
Mine was dripping out of the spigot this year and I couldn’t stop it. Mine is soldered like yours (I did it) and was going to replace the whole thing and then figured I just give repair a shot. I had to replace the entire stem but it stopped the drip.
I appreciate those links but my issue is from the pressure release diaphragm. There is a hole in it so water is heavily misting out even when the valve is shut. I guess it's not a frost-free spigot if it does that. Regardless, it looks like the SharkBite one is $50 and should be easy enough. I just have to find which length I need but that's not too hard.
I agree with Dan1973. I think you need a longer sillcock.
I think you could do it is outlined below: (if there is a mistake I hope someone will chime in).
The way I think you could do it is:
(1) Make the cut on the pipe inside maybe 1/2” or so (or maybe a little more) back from the solder joint with a little tubing cutter. You can get them at Home Depot and they are pretty cheap.
(2) From the outside push something in through the hole till it touches the end of the cut pipe in the house.
(3) This will allow you to take the measurement from the siding to the end of the cut pipe.
(4) Your Shark-bite replacement will have to be longer than that. I think the Shark-bite on a 1/2” pipe needs to be pushed onto the pipe-end by 15/16”. But the instructions will specify the correct distance to push the Shark-bite on.
(5) I think it’s unlikely that you will find a Shark-bite that exact length – i.e., [siding to pipe-end + 15/16 inch].
(6) So you would buy the first size longer than [siding to pipe-end + 15/16”].
(7) If you push the replacement Shark-bite into the hole so it touches the pipe-end, it will stick out from the siding by some amount X.
(8) If you then cut the pipe-end again, but this time cut back by [X – 15/16”], then the new Shark-bite should push onto the pipe end by the right amount and be flush against the siding.
One other thing. I think you should check the shutoff valve for that hose bib. If you had it completely closed I think it should have stopped spraying water after a while.
I have two questions for the plumbers.
One is more serious and the other somewhat unorthodox and hopefully hypothetical question about soldering copper joints.
I was changing a totally rotted valve for my brother this morning. The valve was installed before the walls were installed, it was very tight and I was worried about being able to get a good joint, blind, the back side of a coupling, soldering overhead position without damaging his insulation.
I considered for a moment, soldering a coupling on by adding the solder from the inside for the first pass and then making a second overhead pass on the outside. In the end I managed a nice overhead joint (minus a little run off), but curious if anyone has been forced to go that route.
I decided to do a little test on scrap pipe once home and it seemed to work out just fine, with great caution not to get anything on the inside of the coupling wall where the next joint will be added next. But the penetration was very good and I feel like less heat was used to achieve it.
Has anyone found themselves in a spot where they felt they had to take this route?
Second question, I used a compressor with a long nozzle to blow out several inches of water before heating the pipe and possible get vapour from the heat.
When I removed the nozzle from the main city supply line, it was covered in brown gunk!
I have changed a few main supply lines and never seen my compressor nozzle dripping in gunk after sticking it down the pipe to clear a few inches of water from the line.
Sorry for the not so great iphone pictures.
Thanks![img]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1980x2000/img_2201_b8b03a42707e63d4e2171d5788c3f017c4f94bd1.jpeg[/img]
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My outdoor spigot has a screw on plug on the top.
It was leaking when I had hose connected on the bottom outlet.
I tried tightening it but I didn't realize it was plastic and it broke off.
You can see the cap lying on the right of top outlet.
Now it is completely open on the top so can't use the bottom outlet at all.
I don't need the top outlet.
How can I plug that up?
I'm thinking of cutting a round hard plastic and then using some glue or something to plug that top part.
What can I use? Below is a picture. Thanks
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[i]Broken spigot top.[/i]
06-17-21, 09:11 AM
