Idk how it's related if at all but it's been raining and suddenly this room has been flooding, so 2+2 = rain is culprit, but rain has stopped and still leaking inside room. Mind you I'd already dig into wall to do that work as shown there as this is old grey plumbing needing replacement and so far I've done two fixes putting off the whole job, and now onto number 3 which appears to be up there but I'm guessing not quite across the ceiling/roof horizontally as I don't see any moisture on the ceiling, just dripping to the floor. I'll say at this point the rain is just coincidental, and I def have a leak as before I turned the water off from outside I could hear a low whine in the line from outside and inside.
Do I just keep digging inside up the wall to find the leak or what about from the soffit outside? I've never messed with roofing parts. Are they easy to remove? What's under them?
Last edited by PJmax; 06-27-21 at 12:03 PM.
Reason: resized pics
Not sure what we're looking at in the first picture.
The second picture looks like that plumbing is against an outside block wall.
Is that correct and is that wall getting wet ?
Pretty hard to help with outside without seeing it.
Just some guesses.
That's an outside wall and you live in an area where it gets below freezing, reason I guess that is it looks like that pipe has been repaired more then once.
If that's a supply line, and that white pipe is PVC, it also needs to go.
If it is PVC, and that gray pipe is Quest, then the Shark Bite fitting should have had two different colored rings.
What is that pipe made of coming out of the wall?
If it's galvinized, then that also needs to go.
The whole thing could be replaced with PEX with no joints.
How am I supposed to notify you guys in replying to you with no "reply" or "quote" buttons? Mod, fix this pls.
Yeah, I don't know "quest" but the original grey stuff, "poly" something is old and recalled. And all that work in there is me fixing now 3 leaks so far in 6 years here plus this latest one which shown in the second outdoor pic leaks outside from the soffits and into the room, BUT NOT onto the ceiling so I'm guessing it's like right there prolly at a bend right? I was thinking/hoping I could reach it through the soffits rather than crawling through the attic this hot SWFL spring, so no, no below freezing here..
And yes, I understand I'm not using exact parts for each joint but I have a knack for taking my chances if you can call it that. They've been working so far and theyre reusable and meant for the newer pipes and I'm planning on doing the whole thing myself incrementally section by section since it's just me in the house and don't need water everywhere.
So yeah, I'll be doing PEX or whatever the best kind is.
So quick questions if anyone can help:
how do I do this? PEX throughout up to the copper parts at the fixtures and outside section and to water heater then a hot water pipe to all hot water fixtures? And as far as accessing inside the walls inside the house at the fictures I gotta do some drywall surgery? Dumb question I think but gotta ask. Can't imagine another way unless I was slender man and could drop down from the attic.
I already fixed a leak in the attic where the pipe was bent over truss/beam so I got a decent idea of the whole system. Speaking of which, did someone erroneously lay pipe over edges? Am I supposed to ease the bends somehow?
Anyway, goes up from outside into attic then spreads out to baths, water heater, and kitchen, laundry and 4 outdoor spouts.
Outside is PVC under ground to copper("galvanized"?) through concrete then you see where it goes into the bedroom.
So I get one of those $60 HD crimp tools, a box rings and 3-ways and do it all up? Are the copper to pex points easy enough to do? De-burr, clean, fit then crimp?
Since I plan on doing this incrementally when I have energy at night when it's cool enough to knock out a section, do I just cap off undone sections somehow? Just a piece of pipe and crimp a cap?
As far as getting the pipe down to the fixtures I'm assuming they all drop down exactly vertically to where the wall opens up right?
You don't need a quote or notify button. Just go ahead and reply.
The "new posts" screen is set up to show what threads you posted in and which have new replies.
I have no problem when I check that to see who has replied.
Many posters feel they have to address a member directly with an individual reply.
That isn't necessary.
[color=#141414]I am planning to install a Moen Flo, which turns the water off in the event a leak is detected. I’m not sure how I address the bonding wire. It runs to right above the existing gate valve. Can I just run the bonding wire around the Moen Flo and leave it as is? I probably would just have to bend it out of the way slightly.[/color]
I also have a question about soldering. I’ve watched a lot of YouTube videos and have been practicing. I see that some people basically feed the entire joint from the side opposite the flame while others seem to run the solder around the perimeter quickly after the joint is about 80% done. I’m not sure which is considered the “correct” technique. I just want to make sure I don’t have any voids, etc.
[img]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/c9e71d26_4ea6_4cb2_af2c_df2b46372807_7517c9c6e154a33c2924ef465ca0f89b0eee5584.jpeg[/img]
Hi. For a kitchen remodel a plumber moved a gas line for a new oven. In the basement below the kitchen, the plumber ran black pipe along a wall, then right-turn across another wall, then up, then angle, then up again to the final position. Along with the black pipe each joint has lots of yellowish goo on the threads.
The part that extends into the kitchen has a valve on it, and that pipe can move back and forth. That is, the pipes don't seem to be tightened to the point where they don't move. I raised this point to the plumber, and he said, that because of all of the angles, he screwed the pieces together, but if he tried to tighten them all the way, he could not get things lined up. He said the pipe is screwed down well into each joint, and the pipe goo helps with the seal. He used a bottle of blue liquid that says would show leaks, if any. He even left the bottle for me to use over then next week.
My question: is this guy right? Should I be concerned? So far I don't detect any leaks.