Hello everyone! My wife and I are progressing in the remodel of our home and now it is the time for the kitchen. The basis of my question is that we are trying to move the kitchen sink from an awkward corner spot it was to directly under the kitchen window. The house has a full basement (unfinished, for now), two floors above and an attic, although in the area of the kitchen, the attic space is basically negligible in height (slopes with the roof towards the street). [i]Our home is in Illinois (out of Chicago); this is relevant for later.[/i] Please see the pictures below: [img]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1200x1600/img_20210622_wa0001_37e6b93af0f48f975ad22a6baf8a03749a51212d.jpg[/img] [img]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1200x1600/img_20210622_wa0002_18a887ec8f868114b5292f1e5999735d2e2bd3d2.jpg[/img] [img]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1200x1600/img_20210622_wa0003_11e31ddc3ada8d92bd72027fecd745db82945748.jpg[/img] Excuse the mess! For your reference, the joist space where the drain is running and the adjacent joist space towards the window are relatively clear of utilities (there is room to play with). The problem I am facing is with the vent. The wall is a structural wall (it is the exterior wall of the house), and I don't see a practical way of rerouting the drain within the wall to the new location. [b]Another limiting issue is that the wall is made up of 2x4 lumber[/b]. House was built in 1989. I thought of a few options, and I wanted to check with you to see what do you guys think. [b]Option 1)[/b] Drain can be run through the studs and connect to existing drain and vent. Something like in the picture below. [img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/800x600/smaller_kitchen_window_plumbing_25c8acf356b2c8b5ba7d82e2cf4c76a029587e51.jpg[/img] This would be a most definitely win-win situation, since it would allow me to keep most of the current drain as-is. However, since the drains are 2" ID PVC, that requires stud cuttings larger than the maximum even with a shoe (60% of actual stud depth), therefore I think this kills this option. [b]Option 2)[/b] Drain at new location coming out of floor. I don't have a picture of this one. In this case, the drain at the new location would be coming out of the floor near the proposed drain location, and the actual drain PVC line would run within the joist space adjacent to the current and tied to the main sewer. Plumbing wise is not terribly complicated to do. However, this solution would make pretty difficult to connect to the vent, since the "wet side" of the drain would be in one joist space, and the vent would be in another, requiring pipes coming out from wall and floor, and making it pretty messy to deal with. [b]Option 3)[/b] Hybrid of options 1 and 2. Let me explain this. Since the basement is unfinished, and there is room to play with, I thought of adding a sanitary tee in the existing drain line, to turn the drain line into the adjacent joist space and bring it to the location through the basement, and run it through the wall up into the kitchen, as the schematic below shows: [img]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/477x594/basement_joists_f4f3570e33c62b1f2a54f897253e462b6734975c.png[/img] [i]Schematic of basement joists and drain[/i] Once the drain has been brought up to the kitchen, the pipe would be connected to the existing vent using the smallest venting pipe diameter allowed by the code (I believe it is 1 inch or 1¼ inches), which if using schedule 40 PVC would require a hole of about 1.7 inches, which is between 40% and 60% of the stud width, therefore requiring doubling of the studs (it is triple, so we are good) or an approved stud shoe. Please see the picture below: [img]https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/748x748/kitchen_studs_a74ad34fb06c738fe9eb1ee2434473270a80ec3c.png[/img] (Red is existing; blue is proposed). Now, structurally seems to be feasible to do this. But what about plumbing wise? Do you think this is an ok solution and would allow for proper venting? [i][b]I mentioned before the house is in Illinois (not in Chicago). The IL Plumbing Code explicitly prohibits using mechanical vents, and for what I have been able to find, IL classifies an air admittance valve (AAV) as a mechanical vent (one of the very few jurisdictions in doing so), so an AAV is out of the equation for this purpose[/b][/i][i] [/i][i](which, I know, [/i][i]would [/i][i]tremendously simplify the rerouting of the piping).[/i] Sorry for the very long post, but I was trying to give you guys as much detail as possible. :) So now, bottom line. What do you guys think of the situation? What do you think of the proposed solutions? [b]I am most definitely open to exploring other options if you suggest something better can be done![/b] Thanks for reading and for your help!

[color=#141414]I am planning to install a Moen Flo, which turns the water off in the event a leak is detected. I’m not sure how I address the bonding wire. It runs to right above the existing gate valve. Can I just run the bonding wire around the Moen Flo and leave it as is? I probably would just have to bend it out of the way slightly.[/color] I also have a question about soldering. I’ve watched a lot of YouTube videos and have been practicing. I see that some people basically feed the entire joint from the side opposite the flame while others seem to run the solder around the perimeter quickly after the joint is about 80% done. I’m not sure which is considered the “correct” technique. I just want to make sure I don’t have any voids, etc. [img]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/c9e71d26_4ea6_4cb2_af2c_df2b46372807_7517c9c6e154a33c2924ef465ca0f89b0eee5584.jpeg[/img]