I have a 3 foot section of 1.5" PVC in my pool plumbing that I need to replace. It's a tight fit, so I'd like to get advice on the best way to tackle.
The left side of this run is fixed (the elbow is glued onto the section of pipe coming out of the valve).
The right side is connected to an adapter going into the pump housing and is removable (male-threaded adapter).
As you can see in the picture, the union is not effective because the two runs of pipe are not at the same height.
I am planning on removing and replacing everything from the union to the adapter, but I want to do it in the right sequence to allow for enough room for a clean fit.
Should I follow the same approach as shown in the picture (adapter to 45 degree to 45 degree to union), or is there a better way to configure this?
Last edited by PJmax; 06-28-21 at 04:27 PM.
Reason: resized/labeled pic
Cut near the red line. Scrap everything to the right.
You can use 45's or a 90. Either will work.
They may have used street fittings which connect into each other.
You will need a union in the line.... probably at the red line.
You need to add some pipe between the pump and fitting(s) so that the union lines up correctly.
It would be much easier if I could use a 90 so that I have fewer things to align. This is a 1/2 HP motor pump, so I assume that the pressure going into a 90 wouldn't be an issue.
I agree with Pete about removing everything to the right of the red line.
I would use two 45's if possible. It's not that much more effort and will help with the flow out of the pump.
I would assemble it from left to right. The last connection would be the short vertical pipe (or street 45) into the male threaded fitting. You'll have some vertical wiggle room, but no horizontal. So you can assemble everything, then measure that 1-3" vertical pipe, and glue that last.
Hi. For a kitchen remodel a plumber moved a gas line for a new oven. In the basement below the kitchen, the plumber ran black pipe along a wall, then right-turn across another wall, then up, then angle, then up again to the final position. Along with the black pipe each joint has lots of yellowish goo on the threads.
The part that extends into the kitchen has a valve on it, and that pipe can move back and forth. That is, the pipes don't seem to be tightened to the point where they don't move. I raised this point to the plumber, and he said, that because of all of the angles, he screwed the pieces together, but if he tried to tighten them all the way, he could not get things lined up. He said the pipe is screwed down well into each joint, and the pipe goo helps with the seal. He used a bottle of blue liquid that says would show leaks, if any. He even left the bottle for me to use over then next week.
My question: is this guy right? Should I be concerned? So far I don't detect any leaks.
Hello,
We are remodeling our bathroom and went to install a new tub and the drain and overflow don't match the new tub we bought. So we need to replace the drain and overflow junction so it fits with new tub. Our issue is the existing fixture (drain and overflow is pipe) covered in black tar substance and we have no idea how to remove it. Anyone encountered this before? Any tips are appreciated.
Our house was built in 1978 and we are in San Antonio TX
06-28-21, 03:31 PM
