I have a single story ranch with a flat roof. When the house was built a spigot and upward-facing shower head were installed on the roof to make it easier to cool the hot roof in the summer. Some time ago I forgot to shut the valve off inside and the pipe to the roof burst and leaked. I don't absolutely need the plumbing up there - I just keep the valve off now - but I'm wondering *if* I could fix it...
Copper pipe runs from the basement straight up to the roof. This amounts to about ten or eleven feet of vertical pipe. I might be able to pull the pipe up from the roof, but...I'm wondering if the pipe would have been fastened to the wall studs somewhere along the way. If fastened, I have no way to fix this and I could just remove the roof spigot and patch the roof and terminate the plumbing in the basement.
So, what is the likelihood that the pipe is fastened to the studs inside the wall? Ten feet of pipe has got some weight to it.
Why mess with it?
If it's shut off and it's not leaking I'd just leave it.
Your opening a can of worms trying to remove it totally.
Where on the planet are you, this is the first time I've ever heard of anyone trying to cool a roof using a sprinkler.
I can think of lot's of reasons why this was just a bad idea someone came up with.
It's not unheard of in Pa, especially in the classic flat-roof Philly rowhouse roof can reach 190+ during summer. Spraying 60° cold water on a 195° roof can be cheaper and more effective than running a window air conditioner.
Here's an experiment- try walking barefoot across a black asphalt driveway at 2pm during a sunny august day. Then spray it down with a garden hose and try again...
Here's the roof spigot if anyone was curious. Nozzle on top is broken. Top handle controls the nozzle. Bottom handle is a spigot for, say, a garden hose.
What would the base, where the pipe meets the roof, be made of? I need to redo that. I'm pretty sure it leaks there. You can see some of the rubber already lifting, but that square base should have been tapered to prevent water sitting there. There are a bunch of pinholes in it.
EDIT: Moved question to a new thread in "Roofing".
Image shows what I have. Both valves came out with the valve seat body (leftmost part). I assume this is okay...it'll be fine once reinstalled?
Both had copper washers between the seat body and the valve body. One broken, the other was crumbs. I assume they're nothing special...I just need to get ones of the same dimensions? EDIT: Now that I think about it the washer may not be copper since one came out in crumbs, right?
Packing nut on one is brutally stuck to the escutcheon. Lots of calcium (or lime?), I think...Picture has too much glare. Any tips on removing that nut? Torch okay?
Thanks.
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Hey all,
We recently submitted an offer on a home we're interested in here in SoCal (Orange County) and are now in the counteroffer stage. We have a good shot of winning the bid but after being 'burnt' on the last place (we ultimately backed out of it), I'm much more wary of things in general as it pertains to the house, inspections, plumbing, etc.
That said, the listing description/agent mentioned that this home was repiped. At first I thought or maybe assumed it was PEX but the listing doesn't actually specify. I think the agent might have said "PEX" but he might have just been generally talking about it and needed to confirm what was used for the repipe.
I took the liberty of looking up building permit history from the local city (thanks to a local plumber who suggested it) and I see a permit from Jan/Feb 2009 for a copper repipe: "permit for copper repipe" are the exact words. So at this point I'm assuming the repipe was copper and not PEX...*unless* they did another repipe for PEX without pulling a permit between then and now.
But assuming the only repipe done was for copper back in 2009, how much should we be concerned about things like A) how good of a job was done B) longevity/durability of the copper lines/fittings as far as there not being another leak in the foreseeable future and C) anything else?